Discussion about the Korg PolySix synthesizer

Hi,

First off, make sure you have the top panel controls set as in section 8,
figure 1 of the service manual. If the controls are set to anything other
else then the D/A settings will be wrong/unobtainable.

Is the connection you mentioned in the power supply not just the additional
5v rail which drives the MG LED? This would have the lone blue wire
connected to it at some point.

Cheers,
Andy

On 20/08/2010 22:50, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> Hello all just seeing if anyone can help me with an issue.
>
> I have completed one of my new group buy KLM-367. Now it is installed and I am
> attempting to calibrate the board. I have completed both the power supply
> calibration and Step (1) reseting. Now with step (2) the D/A adjustment I am
> running into a problem. I set SW1 to test then toggle the Tape SW and LEDs 1
> and 5 turn on. rotating VR7 or VR6 does not change the state of the LEDs.
>
> Any clues?
>
> Also has anyone run accros a mod in their polysix where on the 369 the trace
> between D1 and J2 has been cut and then a jumper wire was installed to another
> location? I have aloose jumper wire coming from D1 for the time being I have
> soldered to J2 untill I figure out why and where it was rerouted to.
>
> - Daniel
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

367 - The P6 is setup as shown in Fig 1 of the service manual.
I have complete both the P/S adjustment which was slightly off before. And step (1) of which I had an issue but was able to get the LEDS to go from just A and 1 to all of them lighting up using the 56k res and adjusting VR1. after removing the 56k just A and 1 remained on. I did have some wrong components installed original including R2 which is now correct and original part from old board. I just did a test with my DVM and in a previous post you stated that the voltage should be 3.9v with the 56k in place. I am registering a 4.6v on the right side of R2.

369 - yes it is a lone blue wire. So was the cut trace between D1 and J2 intentional? If so where does the lone blue wire terminate? I understand it should be along the +5v rail just was trying to locate where it was soldered to before it came loose.

Thanks in advance!
Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> First off, make sure you have the top panel controls set as in section 8,
> figure 1 of the service manual. If the controls are set to anything other
> else then the D/A settings will be wrong/unobtainable.
>
> Is the connection you mentioned in the power supply not just the additional
> 5v rail which drives the MG LED? This would have the lone blue wire
> connected to it at some point.
>
> Cheers,
> Andy
>
>

Daniel,

Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say you
description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel controls
are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t get the
LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of the
circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a pulse
train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all the
resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch! If you
want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for us to
see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.

If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure some
voltages from a working board for you to compare with.

On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1 is part
of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output. Therefore, D1
should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place is either
as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v rail in the
top left-hand corner of the PSU.

Hope this helps,
Andy

On 20/08/2010 23:28, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> Andy,
>
> 367 - The P6 is setup as shown in Fig 1 of the service manual.
> I have complete both the P/S adjustment which was slightly off before. And
> step (1) of which I had an issue but was able to get the LEDS to go from just
> A and 1 to all of them lighting up using the 56k res and adjusting VR1. after
> removing the 56k just A and 1 remained on. I did have some wrong components
> installed original including R2 which is now correct and original part from
> old board. I just did a test with my DVM and in a previous post you stated
> that the voltage should be 3.9v with the 56k in place. I am registering a 4.6v
> on the right side of R2.
>
> 369 - yes it is a lone blue wire. So was the cut trace between D1 and J2
> intentional? If so where does the lone blue wire terminate? I understand it
> should be along the +5v rail just was trying to locate where it was soldered
> to before it came loose.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > First off, make sure you have the top panel controls set as in section 8,
>> > figure 1 of the service manual. If the controls are set to anything other
>> > else then the D/A settings will be wrong/unobtainable.
>> >
>> > Is the connection you mentioned in the power supply not just the additional
>> > 5v rail which drives the MG LED? This would have the lone blue wire
>> > connected to it at some point.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Andy
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:

369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG


367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser sent some of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4 installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this factor would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see anything else send me a note.

http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG

Thanks!
Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Daniel,
>
> Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say you
> description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel controls
> are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t get the
> LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of the
> circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a pulse
> train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all the
> resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
> correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch! If you
> want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for us to
> see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>
> If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure some
> voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
>
> On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1 is part
> of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output. Therefore, D1
> should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place is either
> as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v rail in the
> top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Andy

Hi Daniel,

Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him Daniel
because he doesn¹t like it!

Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of me.
I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.

The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with +5v.
The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main +5v
rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod. All
my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you have
added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a separate
wire? They must have had their reasons...

As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a moment...

Be back soon...

Andy

On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> Andy,
>
> Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
>
> 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
>
> 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser sent some
> of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4
> installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this factor
> would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
> anything else send me a note.
>
> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
>
> Thanks!
> Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Daniel,
>> >
>> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say you
>> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
>> controls
>> > are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t get the
>> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of the
>> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a pulse
>> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all the
>> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
>> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch! If you
>> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for us to
>> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>> >
>> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure some
>> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
>> >
>> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1 is part
>> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output. Therefore, D1
>> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place is either
>> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v rail in the
>> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>> >
>> > Hope this helps,
>> > Andy
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Andy for the help.

I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him Daniel
> because he doesn¹t like it!
>
> Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of me.
> I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
>
> The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with +5v.
> The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main +5v
> rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod. All
> my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
> location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you have
> added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a separate
> wire? They must have had their reasons...
>
> As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a moment...
>
> Be back soon...
>
> Andy
>
>
> On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Andy,
> >
> > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
> >
> > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
> > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
> >
> > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser sent some
> > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4
> > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this factor
> > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
> > anything else send me a note.
> >
> > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
> > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
> > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
> > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Daniel
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> > Jury <andy@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Daniel,
> >> >
> >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say you
> >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
> >> controls
> >> > are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t get the
> >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of the
> >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a pulse
> >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all the
> >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
> >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch! If you
> >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for us to
> >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
> >> >
> >> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure some
> >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
> >> >
> >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1 is part
> >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output. Therefore, D1
> >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place is either
> >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v rail in the
> >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
> >> >
> >> > Hope this helps,
> >> > Andy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi Daniel,

I have just been having a really good look at the pictures you posted. The
right-hand side of R74 looks like the pad sheared away from the board. Might
be an illusion, but can you check continuity around the this component? If
it is not is circuit it would certain stop you calibrating it!

I¹ll carry on look and see what I can see...

Cheers,
Andy

On 21/08/2010 17:23, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Andy for the help.
>
> I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>
> - Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Daniel,
>> >
>> > Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him Daniel
>> > because he doesn¹t like it!
>> >
>> > Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of >>
me.
>> > I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
>> >
>> > The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with +5v.
>> > The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main +5v
>> > rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod. All
>> > my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
>> > location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you have
>> > added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a
>> separate
>> > wire? They must have had their reasons...
>> >
>> > As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a moment...
>> >
>> > Be back soon...
>> >
>> > Andy
>> >
>> >
>> > On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>> >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > > Andy,
>>> > >
>>> > > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
>>> > >
>>> > > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
>>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
>>> > >
>>> > > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser
>>> sent some
>>> > > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4
>>> > > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this
>>> factor
>>> > > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
>>> > > anything else send me a note.
>>> > >
>>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
>>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
>>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
>>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
>>> > >
>>> > > Thanks!
>>> > > Daniel
>>> > >
>>> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>>> > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Daniel,
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say
you
>>>>> > >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
>>>> > >> controls
>>>>> > >> > are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t
>>>>> get the
>>>>> > >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of
the
>>>>> > >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a
pulse
>>>>> > >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all
the
>>>>> > >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
>>>>> > >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch!
If you
>>>>> > >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for
us to
>>>>> > >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure
some
>>>>> > >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1
>>>>> is part
>>>>> > >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output.
>>>>> Therefore, D1
>>>>> > >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place
>>>>> is either
>>>>> > >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v
>>>>> rail in the
>>>>> > >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Hope this helps,
>>>>> > >> > Andy
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is this one here:

http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877

Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same!

Cheers,
andy

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Andy for the help.
>
> I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>
> - Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Daniel,
> >
> > Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him Daniel
> > because he doesn¹t like it!
> >
> > Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of me.
> > I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
> >
> > The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with +5v.
> > The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main +5v
> > rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod. All
> > my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
> > location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you have
> > added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a separate
> > wire? They must have had their reasons...
> >
> > As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a moment...
> >
> > Be back soon...
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
> > On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Andy,
> > >
> > > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
> > >
> > > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
> > >
> > > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser sent some
> > > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4
> > > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this factor
> > > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
> > > anything else send me a note.
> > >
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Daniel
> > >
> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > Daniel,
> > >> >
> > >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say you
> > >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
> > >> controls
> > >> > are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t get the
> > >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of the
> > >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a pulse
> > >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all the
> > >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
> > >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch! If you
> > >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for us to
> > >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
> > >> >
> > >> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure some
> > >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
> > >> >
> > >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1 is part
> > >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output. Therefore, D1
> > >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place is either
> > >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v rail in the
> > >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
> > >> >
> > >> > Hope this helps,
> > >> > Andy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

R74 was salvaged from the old board. The pad you see is the old pad. The new board is fine. I will clean that part up.

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> I have just been having a really good look at the pictures you posted. The
> right-hand side of R74 looks like the pad sheared away from the board. Might
> be an illusion, but can you check continuity around the this component? If
> it is not is circuit it would certain stop you calibrating it!
>
> I¹ll carry on look and see what I can see...
>
> Cheers,
> Andy
>
>
> On 21/08/2010 17:23, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks Andy for the help.
> >
> > I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
> >
> > - Daniel
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> > Jury <andy@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Hi Daniel,
> >> >
> >> > Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him Daniel
> >> > because he doesn¹t like it!
> >> >
> >> > Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of >>
> me.
> >> > I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
> >> >
> >> > The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with +5v.
> >> > The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main +5v
> >> > rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod. All
> >> > my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
> >> > location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you have
> >> > added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a
> >> separate
> >> > wire? They must have had their reasons...
> >> >
> >> > As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a moment...
> >> >
> >> > Be back soon...
> >> >
> >> > Andy
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
> >> >
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Andy,
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
> >>> > >
> >>> > > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
> >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
> >>> > >
> >>> > > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser
> >>> sent some
> >>> > > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4
> >>> > > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this
> >>> factor
> >>> > > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
> >>> > > anything else send me a note.
> >>> > >
> >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
> >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
> >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
> >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
> >>> > >
> >>> > > Thanks!
> >>> > > Daniel
> >>> > >
> >>> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> >>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> >>> > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
> >>>>> > >> >
> >>>>> > >> > Daniel,
> >>>>> > >> >
> >>>>> > >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say
> you
> >>>>> > >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
> >>>> > >> controls
> >>>>> > >> > are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t
> >>>>> get the
> >>>>> > >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of
> the
> >>>>> > >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a
> pulse
> >>>>> > >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all
> the
> >>>>> > >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
> >>>>> > >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch!
> If you
> >>>>> > >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for
> us to
> >>>>> > >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
> >>>>> > >> >
> >>>>> > >> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure
> some
> >>>>> > >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
> >>>>> > >> >
> >>>>> > >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1
> >>>>> is part
> >>>>> > >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output.
> >>>>> Therefore, D1
> >>>>> > >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place
> >>>>> is either
> >>>>> > >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v
> >>>>> rail in the
> >>>>> > >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
> >>>>> > >> >
> >>>>> > >> > Hope this helps,
> >>>>> > >> > Andy
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >>> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

LOL, Doh! Why I did not notice that is beyond me. Spending to much time staring at stripes on resistors I guess...


- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "y964omw" <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is this one here:
>
> http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877
>
> Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same!
>
> Cheers,
> andy
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Andy for the help.
> >
> > I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
> >
> > - Daniel
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Daniel,
> > >
> > > Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him Daniel
> > > because he doesn¹t like it!
> > >
> > > Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of me.
> > > I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
> > >
> > > The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with +5v.
> > > The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main +5v
> > > rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod. All
> > > my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
> > > location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you have
> > > added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a separate
> > > wire? They must have had their reasons...
> > >
> > > As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a moment...
> > >
> > > Be back soon...
> > >
> > > Andy
> > >
> > >
> > > On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Andy,
> > > >
> > > > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
> > > >
> > > > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
> > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
> > > >
> > > > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser sent some
> > > > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4
> > > > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this factor
> > > > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
> > > > anything else send me a note.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
> > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
> > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
> > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > Daniel
> > > >
> > > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> > > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
> > > >> >
> > > >> > Daniel,
> > > >> >
> > > >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say you
> > > >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
> > > >> controls
> > > >> > are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t get the
> > > >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of the
> > > >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a pulse
> > > >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all the
> > > >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
> > > >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch! If you
> > > >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for us to
> > > >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure some
> > > >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1 is part
> > > >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output. Therefore, D1
> > > >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place is either
> > > >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v rail in the
> > > >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > Hope this helps,
> > > >> > Andy
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

Aha! Are you satisfied all the components are in the right place and of the
right value? I keep looking at your board and I can¹t see anything obvious.
Do you want some comparison voltages from a working board so you can gauge
your own readings?

BTW. Don¹t worry about the battery gaff, easy enough mistake to make.
However, make sure that you haven¹t flattened it (i.e. It still gives you 3V
at the terminals).

Cheers,
Andy

On 21/08/2010 20:18, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> R74 was salvaged from the old board. The pad you see is the old pad. The new
> board is fine. I will clean that part up.
>
> - Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Daniel,
>> >
>> > I have just been having a really good look at the pictures you posted. The
>> > right-hand side of R74 looks like the pad sheared away from the board.
>> Might
>> > be an illusion, but can you check continuity around the this component? If
>> > it is not is circuit it would certain stop you calibrating it!
>> >
>> > I¹ll carry on look and see what I can see...
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Andy
>> >
>> >
>> > On 21/08/2010 17:23, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>> >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > > Thanks Andy for the help.
>>> > >
>>> > > I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>>> > >
>>> > > - Daniel
>>> > >
>>> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>>> > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Hi Daniel,
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call
>>>>> him Daniel
>>>>> > >> > because he doesn¹t like it!
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in
>>>>> front of >>
>> > me.
>>>>> > >> > I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED)
>>>>> with +5v.
>>>>> > >> > The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the
>>>>> main +5v
>>>>> > >> > rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory
>>>>> mod. All
>>>>> > >> > my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s >>>>>
current
>>>>> > >> > location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire
>>>>> you have
>>>>> > >> > added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a
>>>> > >> separate
>>>>> > >> > wire? They must have had their reasons...
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a
>>>>> moment...
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Be back soon...
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Andy
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > Andy,
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
>>>>>>> > >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that
Mouser
>>>>> > >>> sent some
>>>>>>> > >>> > > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt.
>>>>>>> There are 4
>>>>>>> > >>> > > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think
this
>>>>> > >>> factor
>>>>>>> > >>> > > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If
you see
>>>>>>> > >>> > > anything else send me a note.
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
>>>>>>> > >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
>>>>>>> > >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
>>>>>>> > >>> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > Thanks!
>>>>>>> > >>> > > Daniel
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com
>>>>>>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>>> > >>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>>>>>>> > >>> > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> >
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > Daniel,
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> >
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit!
Suffice to say
>> > you
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If
the top panel
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > >> controls
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test,
but you can¹t
>>>>>>> > >>>>> get the
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully
examination of
>> > the
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe
>>>>>>>>>>> confirm you have a
>> > pulse
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also
>>>>>>>>>>> carefully verify all
>> > the
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and
>>>>>>>>>>> make sure C28 is
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the
test switch!
>> > If you
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up
>>>>>>>>>>> and post it for
>> > us to
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> >
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and
I will measure
>> > some
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare
with.
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> >
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand
side of J2. D1
>>>>>>> > >>>>> is part
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail
output.
>>>>>>> > >>>>> Therefore, D1
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire!
The best place
>>>>>>> > >>>>> is either
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the
output 5v
>>>>>>> > >>>>> rail in the
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> >
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > Hope this helps,
>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>> > >> > Andy
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>> > >> >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ooh, just seeing that name makes me cringe. Was that a bit of your sadistic
side creeping through to specify a Varta battery? And I think you meant the
6032101501 not 6032401501. I hope nobody is considering a soldered battery
;)

Don B.

_____

From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
y964omw
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 2:59 PM
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration




Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside
down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but
traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is
this one here:

http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877

Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same!

Cheers,
andy

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Daniel
A" <apophis93@...> wrote:

>
> Thanks Andy for the help.
>
> I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>
> - Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew

Jury <andy@> wrote:

> >
> > Hi Daniel,
> >
> > Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him

Daniel

> > because he doesn�t like it!
> >
> > Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of

me.

> > I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
> >
> > The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with

+5v.

> > The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main

+5v

> > rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod.

All

> > my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it�s current
> > location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you

have

> > added. Don�t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a

separate

> > wire? They must have had their reasons...
> >
> > As for the �367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a

moment...

> >
> > Be back soon...
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
> > On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Andy,
> > >
> > > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
> > >
> > > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
> > >
> > > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser

sent some

> > > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are

4

> > > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this

factor

> > > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
> > > anything else send me a note.
> > >
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
> > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Daniel
> > >
> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew

> > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > Daniel,
> > >> >
> > >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say

you

> > >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
> > >> controls
> > >> > are set to default and you switched the �367 to test, but you can�t

get the

> > >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of

the

> > >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a

pulse

> > >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all

the

> > >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
> > >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch!

If you

> > >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for

us to

> > >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
> > >> >
> > >> > If you still can�t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure

some

> > >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
> > >> >
> > >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1

is part

> > >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output.

Therefore, D1

> > >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place

is either

> > >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v

rail in the

> > >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU.
> > >> >
> > >> > Hope this helps,
> > >> > Andy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ah, well, you see... Things ain't what they used to be, but for the better,
I think. The print layout on the clone board fits the device on the link
perfectly, rather than trying to jam a CR2032 holder in sideways! ...and
really, the device suggested is a lithium type rather than the old blue
nickel cadmium sort. The CR2032 should be good for many years with that
current drain and I am hoping that it is sealed enough not to leak lithium
into the air. If it ever did then... Remember those experiments in the
chemistry lab at school with elements at the top of the reactivity series?!

However, I think you are right in saying the term 'Varta' is one to bring
tears to the eyes of any Polysix owner!

Bye for now,
Andy

On 21/08/2010 20:53, "longenough2002" <backshall1@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Ooh, just seeing that name makes me cringe. Was that a bit of your sadistic
> side creeping through to specify a Varta battery? And I think you meant the
> 6032101501 not 6032401501. I hope nobody is considering a soldered battery
> ;)
>
> Don B.
>
> _____
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> y964omw
> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 2:59 PM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration
>
>
>
>
> Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside
> down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but
> traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is
> this one here:
>
> http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877
>
> Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same!
>
> Cheers,
> andy
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Daniel
> A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Andy for the help.
>>
>> I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>>
>> - Daniel
>>
>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Daniel,
>>>
>>> Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him
> Daniel
>>> because he doesn¹t like it!
>>>
>>> Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of
> me.
>>> I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
>>>
>>> The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with
> +5v.
>>> The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main
> +5v
>>> rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod.
> All
>>> my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
>>> location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you
> have
>>> added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a
> separate
>>> wire? They must have had their reasons...
>>>
>>> As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a
> moment...
>>>
>>> Be back soon...
>>>
>>> Andy
>>>
>>>
>>> On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Andy,
>>>>
>>>> Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
>>>>
>>>> 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
>>>>
>>>> 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser
> sent some
>>>> of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are
> 4
>>>> installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this
> factor
>>>> would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
>>>> anything else send me a note.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> Daniel
>>>>
>>>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>>>> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Daniel,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say
> you
>>>>>> description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
>>>>> controls
>>>>>> are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t
> get the
>>>>>> LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of
> the
>>>>>> circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a
> pulse
>>>>>> train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all
> the
>>>>>> resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
>>>>>> correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch!
> If you
>>>>>> want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for
> us to
>>>>>> see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure
> some
>>>>>> voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1
> is part
>>>>>> of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output.
> Therefore, D1
>>>>>> should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place
> is either
>>>>>> as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v
> rail in the
>>>>>> top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Andy,

Well it seems it was a continuity issue. All solder points from the bottom of the board looked clean. So I went over the top of the board and looked for any points that had very little solder and just reapplied. Now I am past initial calibration and onto using my oscilloscope. As I have not done this calibration with my scope I do have one newbie question. When the service manual states to observe CN03-5 is it asking me to pull the Molex connector (CN03) and probe pin 5? or should I be using the nearby test point?

Thanks!
Daniel

Hi Daniel,

Ah, well, persistence always pays off in the end. Glad you found the open
circuit and you are back in action. The manual is asking you to connect to
the VCA MOD out. Fortunately the guys in the R&D lab have thought about this
one and you can connect your probe to the point marked TP5. I see you took
the hook-style point of the old board so you should be all set. In terms of
a good grounding point for the other end of the scope probe I find the GND
point on the KLM-366 is handy. Watch those trigger levels now!

Cheers,
Andy

On 22/08/2010 09:05, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
>
> Andy,
>
> Well it seems it was a continuity issue. All solder points from the bottom of
> the board looked clean. So I went over the top of the board and looked for any
> points that had very little solder and just reapplied. Now I am past initial
> calibration and onto using my oscilloscope. As I have not done this
> calibration with my scope I do have one newbie question. When the service
> manual states to observe CN03-5 is it asking me to pull the Molex connector
> (CN03) and probe pin 5? or should I be using the nearby test point?
>
> Thanks!
> Daniel
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Seriously, the new board is designed for the soldered-in battery? I'll have
to see it when it gets here, but I think I'll start looking for a holder
with a smaller footprint to wedge in there. There must be a holder out there
that fits. If not, I've filed them down before to fit other keyboards, I've
mounted them at an angle in DX7's, and in the Poly-800 it sits on top of two
chips. I can be very creative when left unsupervised.

Don B.

_____

From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Andrew Jury
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 7:32 PM
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration




Ah, well, you see... Things ain't what they used to be, but for the better,
I think. The print layout on the clone board fits the device on the link
perfectly, rather than trying to jam a CR2032 holder in sideways! ...and
really, the device suggested is a lithium type rather than the old blue
nickel cadmium sort. The CR2032 should be good for many years with that
current drain and I am hoping that it is sealed enough not to leak lithium
into the air. If it ever did then... Remember those experiments in the
chemistry lab at school with elements at the top of the reactivity series?!

However, I think you are right in saying the term 'Varta' is one to bring
tears to the eyes of any Polysix owner!

Bye for now,
Andy

On 21/08/2010 20:53, "longenough2002" <backshall1@bellsouth.net
<mailto:backshall1%40bellsouth.net> > wrote:

> Ooh, just seeing that name makes me cringe. Was that a bit of your

sadistic

> side creeping through to specify a Varta battery? And I think you meant

the

> 6032101501 not 6032401501. I hope nobody is considering a soldered battery
> ;)
>
> Don B.
>
> _____
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
Behalf Of

> y964omw
> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 2:59 PM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration
>
>
>
>
> Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside
> down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but
> traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is
> this one here:
>
>

http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877

>
> Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same!
>
> Cheers,
> andy
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Daniel

> A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Andy for the help.
>>
>> I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>>
>> - Daniel
>>
>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew

> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Daniel,
>>>
>>> Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him
> Daniel
>>> because he doesn�t like it!
>>>
>>> Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of
> me.
>>> I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
>>>
>>> The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with
> +5v.
>>> The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main
> +5v
>>> rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod.
> All
>>> my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it�s current
>>> location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you
> have
>>> added. Don�t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a
> separate
>>> wire? They must have had their reasons...
>>>
>>> As for the �367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a
> moment...
>>>
>>> Be back soon...
>>>
>>> Andy
>>>
>>>
>>> On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Andy,
>>>>
>>>> Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
>>>>
>>>> 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
>>>>
>>>> 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser
> sent some
>>>> of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are
> 4
>>>> installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this
> factor
>>>> would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
>>>> anything else send me a note.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> Daniel
>>>>
>>>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>

> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>>>> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Daniel,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say
> you
>>>>>> description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
>>>>> controls
>>>>>> are set to default and you switched the �367 to test, but you can�t
> get the
>>>>>> LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of
> the
>>>>>> circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a
> pulse
>>>>>> train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all
> the
>>>>>> resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
>>>>>> correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch!
> If you
>>>>>> want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for
> us to
>>>>>> see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you still can�t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure
> some
>>>>>> voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1
> is part
>>>>>> of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output.
> Therefore, D1
>>>>>> should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place
> is either
>>>>>> as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v
> rail in the
>>>>>> top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups

Links

>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yup! Although I must recap, the part that fits is a CR2032 with tabs on.
Lithium leaks would cause an explosion so I don't think this will be an
issue. Of course, if you can find a holder with the same dimensions as the
battery in the link then please do share! Then we have a choice.

Cheers,
Andy

On 22/08/2010 13:02, "longenough2002" <backshall1@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Seriously, the new board is designed for the soldered-in battery? I'll have
> to see it when it gets here, but I think I'll start looking for a holder
> with a smaller footprint to wedge in there. There must be a holder out there
> that fits. If not, I've filed them down before to fit other keyboards, I've
> mounted them at an angle in DX7's, and in the Poly-800 it sits on top of two
> chips. I can be very creative when left unsupervised.
>
> Don B.
>
> _____
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Andrew Jury
> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 7:32 PM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration
>
>
>
>
> Ah, well, you see... Things ain't what they used to be, but for the better,
> I think. The print layout on the clone board fits the device on the link
> perfectly, rather than trying to jam a CR2032 holder in sideways! ...and
> really, the device suggested is a lithium type rather than the old blue
> nickel cadmium sort. The CR2032 should be good for many years with that
> current drain and I am hoping that it is sealed enough not to leak lithium
> into the air. If it ever did then... Remember those experiments in the
> chemistry lab at school with elements at the top of the reactivity series?!
>
> However, I think you are right in saying the term 'Varta' is one to bring
> tears to the eyes of any Polysix owner!
>
> Bye for now,
> Andy
>
> On 21/08/2010 20:53, "longenough2002" <backshall1@bellsouth.net
> <mailto:backshall1%40bellsouth.net> > wrote:
>
>> Ooh, just seeing that name makes me cringe. Was that a bit of your
> sadistic
>> side creeping through to specify a Varta battery? And I think you meant
> the
>> 6032101501 not 6032401501. I hope nobody is considering a soldered battery
>> ;)
>>
>> Don B.
>>
>> _____
>>
>> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> Behalf Of
>> y964omw
>> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 2:59 PM
>> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside
>> down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but
>> traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is
>> this one here:
>>
>>
> http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877
>>
>> Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same!
>>
>> Cheers,
>> andy
>>
>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Daniel
>> A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks Andy for the help.
>>>
>>> I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>>>
>>> - Daniel
>>>
>>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Daniel,
>>>>
>>>> Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him
>> Daniel
>>>> because he doesn¹t like it!
>>>>
>>>> Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of
>> me.
>>>> I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
>>>>
>>>> The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with
>> +5v.
>>>> The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main
>> +5v
>>>> rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod.
>> All
>>>> my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
>>>> location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you
>> have
>>>> added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a
>> separate
>>>> wire? They must have had their reasons...
>>>>
>>>> As for the Œ367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a
>> moment...
>>>>
>>>> Be back soon...
>>>>
>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Andy,
>>>>>
>>>>> Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
>>>>>
>>>>> 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
>>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
>>>>>
>>>>> 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser
>> sent some
>>>>> of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are
>> 4
>>>>> installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this
>> factor
>>>>> would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
>>>>> anything else send me a note.
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
>>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
>>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
>>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>> Daniel
>>>>>
>>>>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>>>>> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Daniel,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say
>> you
>>>>>>> description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
>>>>>> controls
>>>>>>> are set to default and you switched the Œ367 to test, but you can¹t
>> get the
>>>>>>> LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of
>> the
>>>>>>> circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a
>> pulse
>>>>>>> train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all
>> the
>>>>>>> resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
>>>>>>> correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch!
>> If you
>>>>>>> want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for
>> us to
>>>>>>> see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure
>> some
>>>>>>> voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1
>> is part
>>>>>>> of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output.
>> Therefore, D1
>>>>>>> should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place
>> is either
>>>>>>> as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v
>> rail in the
>>>>>>> top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>>>>> Andy
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups
> Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

As far as battery holders go:

There actually are holders with a much smaller rim. They almost fit the
holes on the PCB (both old and new). Usually I bend one pin outward and
solder it flat onto the surface; however with the new PCB it might even be
feasible to bend both pins slightly inward and fit them through the holes.

That sounds like a plan. The Farnell site says the pins are 18mm x 10mm,
which would make the diagonal distance from one positive pin to the negative
pin about 19mm. The sockets I have here seem to be about 21mm from pin to
pin, so maybe I can bend each one inward a millimeter and get it to fit in
the holes.
Thanks,
Don B.

_____

From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Malte Rogacki
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:50 AM
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration




As far as battery holders go:

There actually are holders with a much smaller rim. They almost fit the
holes on the PCB (both old and new). Usually I bend one pin outward and
solder it flat onto the surface; however with the new PCB it might even be
feasible to bend both pins slightly inward and fit them through the holes.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Discussion about the Korg PolySix synthesizerI have enjoyed this thread, but it would be really nice if you guys would delete the quoted (earlier) messages if they are not needed.

Thanks,
GB

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If it ain't one thing it is another. So in starting the MG calibration I show a 1v drop but no wave. I made sure my scope was calibrated and tested on the polysix output and could see the wave form as I played some keys. resetup for the MG calibration and again just a 1v drop but it is flatlined. So I swapped the LM3600 with my other P6 to test if it was bad parts but again nothing.

None of the MG affects the output other then the selection switch VCF/VCO/VCA.

I moved the loose blue wire to the proper spot on the PS +5v rail. If I remember correctly this LED will pulse when the MG Dial is engaged or it at least did with an old P6 I owned in the past.

- Daniel

Hi Daniel,

Have you added the track mods around R52 and R98? The Group Buy site has the
details (I think). Without the R52 mod the astable that drives the MG
circuit won¹t oscillate. The R98 mod gets the MG delay working properly.
Please check and let us know if you can¹t figure it out.

The MG LED pulse at the same frequency as the MG frequency knob is set to.
It should always pulse on/off at some speed, it will never be always off,
unless there is a problem!

Cheers,
Andy

On 22/08/2010 21:54, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
>
> If it ain't one thing it is another. So in starting the MG calibration I show
> a 1v drop but no wave. I made sure my scope was calibrated and tested on the
> polysix output and could see the wave form as I played some keys. resetup for
> the MG calibration and again just a 1v drop but it is flatlined. So I swapped
> the LM3600 with my other P6 to test if it was bad parts but again nothing.
>
> None of the MG affects the output other then the selection switch VCF/VCO/VCA.
>
> I moved the loose blue wire to the proper spot on the PS +5v rail. If I
> remember correctly this LED will pulse when the MG Dial is engaged or it at
> least did with an old P6 I owned in the past.
>
> - Daniel
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

yes both mods were done. Well mine is on all the time since connecting to the +5v rail (basicly on the left side of J3 on the 367-PS Board). I found trace solder were it was connected before. I will investigate further.

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> Have you added the track mods around R52 and R98? The Group Buy site has the
> details (I think). Without the R52 mod the astable that drives the MG
> circuit won¹t oscillate. The R98 mod gets the MG delay working properly.
> Please check and let us know if you can¹t figure it out.
>
> The MG LED pulse at the same frequency as the MG frequency knob is set to.
> It should always pulse on/off at some speed, it will never be always off,
> unless there is a problem!
>
> Cheers,
> Andy

Ok,

Still at it with no solution yet on why my MG is working.

I have a question in regards to the part list vs original board. R16, 39, 46 and 48 on the part list call for metal film. The two old boards that I have are a 367 and a 367A have carbon film at those locations. Is there a good reason why they should be changed to metal film for the new 367A's? I installed carbon film at these locations but could swap out. I have gone over every Res and Cap to check Value Polarity and continuity at this point and save those listed above and the 5 1/2 watt metal film Rs everything is to spec.

Another is what are all the IC's that have a direct influence on the MG? My guess is these:IC1, 2, 20, 21 and 32. How about IC 13-16?

Thanks!
Daniel

> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Daniel,
> >
> > Have you added the track mods around R52 and R98? The Group Buy site has the
> > details (I think). Without the R52 mod the astable that drives the MG
> > circuit won¹t oscillate. The R98 mod gets the MG delay working properly.
> > Please check and let us know if you can¹t figure it out.
> >
> > The MG LED pulse at the same frequency as the MG frequency knob is set to.
> > It should always pulse on/off at some speed, it will never be always off,
> > unless there is a problem!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Andy
>

Hi Daniel,

Now let me see... So you say you are getting just DC on TP5? Have you got the scope in set for AC input? ;-) I doubt if the material type of the components you mentioned are you problem, but we'll cover that a bit later. First, you should note whether the MG LED is on, off or pulsing. However, in your case did we manage to get that blue wire back in place? Second we need to measure the astable comprising IC16 and IC21 and see if it is in oscillation. You know about oscillators, right? You present the output as positive feedback to the input with a gain greater than 1 and the whole thing starts to resonate. Only this circuit is current controlled by pin 16 of IC21. The output of the mux (IC19), the buffer IC13 at pin 7 and the long tail pair transistor are responsible for altering the current and changing the speed of the MG. That is a very loose description of how it works but it should give you some pointers. You should hook up your scope to pin 12 of IC21, IC16 pin 7 and the drain of FET Q1 and see what you have. You should have some nice slow running triangle waves if running.

Let us know,
Andy

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>
> Ok,
>
> Still at it with no solution yet on why my MG is working.
>
> I have a question in regards to the part list vs original board. R16, 39, 46 and 48 on the part list call for metal film. The two old boards that I have are a 367 and a 367A have carbon film at those locations. Is there a good reason why they should be changed to metal film for the new 367A's? I installed carbon film at these locations but could swap out. I have gone over every Res and Cap to check Value Polarity and continuity at this point and save those listed above and the 5 1/2 watt metal film Rs everything is to spec.
>
> Another is what are all the IC's that have a direct influence on the MG? My guess is these:IC1, 2, 20, 21 and 32. How about IC 13-16?
>
> Thanks!
> Daniel

Andy,

> Now let me see... So you say you are getting just DC on TP5? Have you got the scope in set for AC input? ;-)

What!?! I shouldn't probe the outlet in my house as a 60Hz reference? ;)

> First, you should note whether the MG LED is on, off or pulsing. However, in your case did we manage to get that blue wire back in place?

Yes the loose blue wire is now reconnected to the PS +5v rail as it was before I found trace solder where it broke off. Light is currently holding steady ON. Hopefully this changes when the MG Freq is back online.

> Second we need to measure the a stable comprising IC16 and IC21 and see if it is in oscillation. You know about oscillators, right? You present the output as positive feedback to the input with a gain greater than 1 and the whole thing starts to resonate. Only this circuit is current controlled by pin 16 of IC21. The output of the mux (IC19), the buffer IC13 at pin 7 and the long tail pair transistor are responsible for altering the current and changing the speed of the MG. That is a very loose description of how it works but it should give you some pointers. You should hook up your scope to pin 12 of IC21, IC16 pin 7 and the drain of FET Q1 and see what you have. You should have some nice slow running triangle waves if running.
>

Here are my results I can give exact measurements if required:

IC13 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
IC16 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
IC19 pin12 has a saw oscillation.
IC21 no oscillation just DC shift
(T1) FET Q1 no oscillation just DC shift

- Daniel

Hi Daniel,

Ha! Nice answer. I was asking for that really!

About the reading you took. There are some issues here definitely...

>> IC13 pin7 has a saw oscillation.

This is supposed to be the demuxed control voltage from the MG frequency
knob. You should have a voltage there which swings between ­5 and +5v! 0v
when the control is in the centre. Check the your layout and connect very
carefully. Remove IC21 to prevent any damage and lift out one end of R18.
This will disconnect the mux from the oscillator. Q3 shorted shorted emitter
to base perhaps?

>> IC16 pin7 has a saw oscillation.

Looks right!

>> IC19 pin12 has a saw oscillation.

See the notes above! IC13 buffers the output of IC19!

Cheers,
Andy

On 24/08/2010 02:34, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
>> > Now let me see... So you say you are getting just DC on TP5? Have you got
>> the scope in set for AC input? ;-)
>
> What!?! I shouldn't probe the outlet in my house as a 60Hz reference? ;)
>
>> > First, you should note whether the MG LED is on, off or pulsing. However,
>> in your case did we manage to get that blue wire back in place?
>
> Yes the loose blue wire is now reconnected to the PS +5v rail as it was before
> I found trace solder where it broke off. Light is currently holding steady ON.
> Hopefully this changes when the MG Freq is back online.
>
>> > Second we need to measure the a stable comprising IC16 and IC21 and see if
>> it is in oscillation. You know about oscillators, right? You present the
>> output as positive feedback to the input with a gain greater than 1 and the
>> whole thing starts to resonate. Only this circuit is current controlled by
>> pin 16 of IC21. The output of the mux (IC19), the buffer IC13 at pin 7 and
>> the long tail pair transistor are responsible for altering the current and
>> changing the speed of the MG. That is a very loose description of how it
>> works but it should give you some pointers. You should hook up your scope to
>> pin 12 of IC21, IC16 pin 7 and the drain of FET Q1 and see what you have. You
>> should have some nice slow running triangle waves if running.
>> >
>
> Here are my results I can give exact measurements if required:
>
> IC13 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
> IC16 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
> IC19 pin12 has a saw oscillation.
> IC21 no oscillation just DC shift
> (T1) FET Q1 no oscillation just DC shift
>
> - Daniel



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Since I am working on two polysixes one for a friend (the one with the issues I have been dealing with) and one for myself. I have decided to put a side my friends 367 and finish off mine. I completed it and was able to calibrate past the MG part 1 (I get the 50Hz wav) but when I try to change the frequency down to 4 and delay of 10 but when I press a key I get no wav at 8~12 sec even when adjusting. I notice the MG is on all the time (affect the sound) even when the MG bend dial is at any position. Correct me if I am wrong but when the P6 is functioning correctly the MG Dial affect the level just as the level pot in the MG section. This is from memory as I have not had a functional P6 in years.

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> Ha! Nice answer. I was asking for that really!
>
> About the reading you took. There are some issues here definitely...
>
> >> IC13 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
>
> This is supposed to be the demuxed control voltage from the MG frequency
> knob. You should have a voltage there which swings between ­5 and +5v! 0v
> when the control is in the centre. Check the your layout and connect very
> carefully. Remove IC21 to prevent any damage and lift out one end of R18.
> This will disconnect the mux from the oscillator. Q3 shorted shorted emitter
> to base perhaps?
>
> >> IC16 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
>
> Looks right!
>
> >> IC19 pin12 has a saw oscillation.
>
> See the notes above! IC13 buffers the output of IC19!
>
> Cheers,
> Andy
>
>
>
> On 24/08/2010 02:34, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
> >
> > Andy,
> >
> >> > Now let me see... So you say you are getting just DC on TP5? Have you got
> >> the scope in set for AC input? ;-)
> >
> > What!?! I shouldn't probe the outlet in my house as a 60Hz reference? ;)
> >
> >> > First, you should note whether the MG LED is on, off or pulsing. However,
> >> in your case did we manage to get that blue wire back in place?
> >
> > Yes the loose blue wire is now reconnected to the PS +5v rail as it was before
> > I found trace solder where it broke off. Light is currently holding steady ON.
> > Hopefully this changes when the MG Freq is back online.
> >
> >> > Second we need to measure the a stable comprising IC16 and IC21 and see if
> >> it is in oscillation. You know about oscillators, right? You present the
> >> output as positive feedback to the input with a gain greater than 1 and the
> >> whole thing starts to resonate. Only this circuit is current controlled by
> >> pin 16 of IC21. The output of the mux (IC19), the buffer IC13 at pin 7 and
> >> the long tail pair transistor are responsible for altering the current and
> >> changing the speed of the MG. That is a very loose description of how it
> >> works but it should give you some pointers. You should hook up your scope to
> >> pin 12 of IC21, IC16 pin 7 and the drain of FET Q1 and see what you have. You
> >> should have some nice slow running triangle waves if running.
> >> >
> >
> > Here are my results I can give exact measurements if required:
> >
> > IC13 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
> > IC16 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
> > IC19 pin12 has a saw oscillation.
> > IC21 no oscillation just DC shift
> > (T1) FET Q1 no oscillation just DC shift
> >
> > - Daniel
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Andy,

If I am getting the 50Hz cycle but the peak to peak voltage is at 3.8v and VR2 is not changing the value.What componants are to be examined if the voltage is not in line? The manual refers to LM3600 (LM3700) R98 and R52.

- Daniel

Any thoughts on how I should track down this voltage issue?

Thanks!
-Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Andy,
>
> If I am getting the 50Hz cycle but the peak to peak voltage is at 3.8v and VR2 is not changing the value.What componants are to be examined if the voltage is not in line? The manual refers to LM3600 (LM3700) R98 and R52.
>
> - Daniel
>

Hi Daniel,

You are looking for 1 volt p-p, but VR2 does nothing and you have 3.8v p-p?
Does decreasing the MG level control do anything to the output? You should
have this set to 10 when making adjustments here. What do you have at IC14
pin 7 with MG level at 10?

Cheers,
Andy

On 26/08/2010 19:17, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on how I should track down this voltage issue?
>
> Thanks!
> -Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Daniel A"
> <apophis93@...> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Andy,
>> >
>> > If I am getting the 50Hz cycle but the peak to peak voltage is at 3.8v and
>> VR2 is not changing the value.What componants are to be examined if the
>> voltage is not in line? The manual refers to LM3600 (LM3700) R98 and R52.
>> >
>> > - Daniel
>> >
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Andy,

I am heading out for the weekend and will post results when I return.

> You are looking for 1 volt p-p, but VR2 does nothing and you have 3.8v p-p?

Yes. VR2 is not changing voltage.

> Does decreasing the MG level control do anything to the output? You should
> have this set to 10 when making adjustments here.

The MG level pot does not change the value. It is set at 10 when attempting to calibrate.

> What do you have at IC14
> pin 7 with MG level at 10?

I will have this value posted when I return.

Thanks again for you help.
- Daniel

Andy,

I am getting a 4volt drop saw tooth wave with a 1volt peak to peak (-4v to-5volt).

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> You are looking for 1 volt p-p, but VR2 does nothing and you have 3.8v p-p?
> Does decreasing the MG level control do anything to the output? You should
> have this set to 10 when making adjustments here. What do you have at IC14
> pin 7 with MG level at 10?
>
> Cheers,
> Andy
>

Andy,

retackling this board as well. I did order metal film resistors as the part list recommended and have installed most all as I am waiting on a few that are back ordered with Farnell. I have decided to swap out Q1 with a newly order stock from Farnell as you had suspected a short or the like at Q1. Also on back order are new LM3700s just in case they are an issue. So with the installation of a new Fet Q1 and the metal film resistors. I started the calibration over and with the MG on this board it is exhibiting the same behavior. I pulled IC 21 and one side of R18 as recommended. Should I resend data from those test points? What should I be looking for at this point?

-Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> Ha! Nice answer. I was asking for that really!
>
> About the reading you took. There are some issues here definitely...
>
> >> IC13 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
>
> This is supposed to be the demuxed control voltage from the MG frequency
> knob. You should have a voltage there which swings between ­5 and +5v! 0v
> when the control is in the centre. Check the your layout and connect very
> carefully. Remove IC21 to prevent any damage and lift out one end of R18.
> This will disconnect the mux from the oscillator. Q3 shorted shorted emitter
> to base perhaps?
>
> >> IC16 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
>
> Looks right!
>
> >> IC19 pin12 has a saw oscillation.
>
> See the notes above! IC13 buffers the output of IC19!
>
> Cheers,
> Andy
>
>
>
> On 24/08/2010 02:34, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
> >
> > Andy,
> >
> >> > Now let me see... So you say you are getting just DC on TP5? Have you got
> >> the scope in set for AC input? ;-)
> >
> > What!?! I shouldn't probe the outlet in my house as a 60Hz reference? ;)
> >
> >> > First, you should note whether the MG LED is on, off or pulsing. However,
> >> in your case did we manage to get that blue wire back in place?
> >
> > Yes the loose blue wire is now reconnected to the PS +5v rail as it was before
> > I found trace solder where it broke off. Light is currently holding steady ON.
> > Hopefully this changes when the MG Freq is back online.
> >
> >> > Second we need to measure the a stable comprising IC16 and IC21 and see if
> >> it is in oscillation. You know about oscillators, right? You present the
> >> output as positive feedback to the input with a gain greater than 1 and the
> >> whole thing starts to resonate. Only this circuit is current controlled by
> >> pin 16 of IC21. The output of the mux (IC19), the buffer IC13 at pin 7 and
> >> the long tail pair transistor are responsible for altering the current and
> >> changing the speed of the MG. That is a very loose description of how it
> >> works but it should give you some pointers. You should hook up your scope to
> >> pin 12 of IC21, IC16 pin 7 and the drain of FET Q1 and see what you have. You
> >> should have some nice slow running triangle waves if running.
> >> >
> >
> > Here are my results I can give exact measurements if required:
> >
> > IC13 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
> > IC16 pin7 has a saw oscillation.
> > IC19 pin12 has a saw oscillation.
> > IC21 no oscillation just DC shift
> > (T1) FET Q1 no oscillation just DC shift
> >
> > - Daniel
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Andy,

> > Q3 shorted shorted emitter
> > to base perhaps?

The solder points look clean and have continuity. What readings should I be checking for on Q3?

- Daniel

Hi Daniel,

Sorry for the delay, have been working on some pressing stuff. Can you let
me know how you have been getting on. If you are still stuck at this point
let me know and I will get the readings for you this evening. Lunchtime
where you are?!

Cheers,
Andy

On 31/08/2010 22:32, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
>>> > > Q3 shorted shorted emitter
>>> > > to base perhaps?
>
> The solder points look clean and have continuity. What readings should I be
> checking for on Q3?
>
> - Daniel
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

I am in Portland OR. If you saw the last post which I deleted please ignore had bad readings. In fact the very first post you responded to had bad readings I apologize I just realized I was reading the IC pins incorrectly and have now corrected myself in these readings... boy it has been a few years since I have worked on a project.

Well I ordered a few replacement parts from a company in Canada and Farnell. I installed a new LM13700 at IC 20 and 21. This is because I was still working with the salvage LM13600s and wanted to rule them out. Next I got a hold of some stock new A798s for Q3 as you had mentioned a possible short at that point. So Q3 is now new stock.

I am still getting the 50Hz and it is still 3.8 peak to peak (I have my scope
set at "1" for the Volt/DIV and I am getting an amplitude of -1.9 to 1.9 or 3.8
pp)

V2 and the panel have no effect on the voltage.

Did a new test of points as before:

IC13 pin 7 = 4.8v
IC16 pin 7 = A square wave 15v to -15v 10msec
IC19 pin 12 = A saw wave form at 4v to 4.5v
IC21 pin 12 = 50Hz 3.8vpp
Q1 Source +15v Drain is a 50Hz 12vpp

I am still at a loss and trying to track this problem down. I may have to coax
Jed over if he can spare the time ;)

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> Sorry for the delay, have been working on some pressing stuff. Can you let
> me know how you have been getting on. If you are still stuck at this point
> let me know and I will get the readings for you this evening. Lunchtime
> where you are?!
>
> Cheers,
> Andy

Hi Daniel,

Well, I am about 6000 miles away in the Suffolk market town of Sudbury,
United Kingdom! However, you are very close to Jed and I am sure he will
make you a nice cup of coffee if you decide to drop in! ;-)

Back to your MG issue. I am happy with all the waveforms you have reported
back, but one thing concerns me. IC13 pin 7. You say it is at 4.8v. This
means the MG is oscillating almost flat out! Between this pin and ground you
should see the following.

With the MG frequency set to 0 you should have about ­4.95v. As you increase
this pot clockwise you will find the voltage drops to 0v when you are at the
12 o¹clock position. As you increase around to 10 then the voltage will ramp
up to about +4.95v. Can we verify that this is the case with your board? If
it is stuck at +4.8v then we can have a look at both the multiplexor and
buffering stage for faults.

On a working board MG frequency set to 10 give about 50-60Hz at CN6-1. I
just measured it!

Cheers,
Andy

On 11/09/2010 03:12, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> Andy,
>
> I am in Portland OR. If you saw the last post which I deleted please ignore
> had bad readings. In fact the very first post you responded to had bad
> readings I apologize I just realized I was reading the IC pins incorrectly and
> have now corrected myself in these readings... boy it has been a few years
> since I have worked on a project.
>
> Well I ordered a few replacement parts from a company in Canada and Farnell. I
> installed a new LM13700 at IC 20 and 21. This is because I was still working
> with the salvage LM13600s and wanted to rule them out. Next I got a hold of
> some stock new A798s for Q3 as you had mentioned a possible short at that
> point. So Q3 is now new stock.
>
> I am still getting the 50Hz and it is still 3.8 peak to peak (I have my scope
> set at "1" for the Volt/DIV and I am getting an amplitude of -1.9 to 1.9 or
> 3.8
> pp)
>
> V2 and the panel have no effect on the voltage.
>
> Did a new test of points as before:
>
> IC13 pin 7 = 4.8v
> IC16 pin 7 = A square wave 15v to -15v 10msec
> IC19 pin 12 = A saw wave form at 4v to 4.5v
> IC21 pin 12 = 50Hz 3.8vpp
> Q1 Source +15v Drain is a 50Hz 12vpp
>
> I am still at a loss and trying to track this problem down. I may have to coax
> Jed over if he can spare the time ;)
>
> - Daniel
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

yes I am getting the voltage shift from what looks like -4.95 to +4.95. So that is correct it appears. My 4.80v estimation was when I had the setting at 10 as the manual states for MG calibration. But it does behave as you described

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Daniel,
>
> Well, I am about 6000 miles away in the Suffolk market town of Sudbury,
> United Kingdom! However, you are very close to Jed and I am sure he will
> make you a nice cup of coffee if you decide to drop in! ;-)
>
> Back to your MG issue. I am happy with all the waveforms you have reported
> back, but one thing concerns me. IC13 pin 7. You say it is at 4.8v. This
> means the MG is oscillating almost flat out! Between this pin and ground you
> should see the following.
>
> With the MG frequency set to 0 you should have about ­4.95v. As you increase
> this pot clockwise you will find the voltage drops to 0v when you are at the
> 12 o¹clock position. As you increase around to 10 then the voltage will ramp
> up to about +4.95v. Can we verify that this is the case with your board? If
> it is stuck at +4.8v then we can have a look at both the multiplexor and
> buffering stage for faults.
>
> On a working board MG frequency set to 10 give about 50-60Hz at CN6-1. I
> just measured it!
>
> Cheers,
> Andy
>

OK then, so what is the voltage reading on the left-hand base of T3 with the
MG frequency pot at 0 and at 10? Also what is the emitter voltage at with
VR5 fully clockwise/counter clockwise? The tricky part is that the frequency
is determined by the current input at IC21 pin 16, which isn¹t so easy to
measure. But the voltages into the circuit might give us some clues...

Cheers,
A

On 12/09/2010 04:07, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
> yes I am getting the voltage shift from what looks like -4.95 to +4.95. So
> that is correct it appears. My 4.80v estimation was when I had the setting at
> 10 as the manual states for MG calibration. But it does behave as you
> described
>
> - Daniel
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

Here are the readings for T3

With Freq set to 0 the left Base (pin1) reads at approx +4.95v
With Freq set to 10 the left Base (pin1) reads at approx +4.95v (ie.. no change)

With VR5 fully counter clockwise the Emmitter (pin3) is reading at a slightly higher voltage then the base I would say approx +5.2v
And I get the same exact reading when I rotate VR5 fully clockwise.

I did do a reading on pin 16 of IC21 and I am getting -15v

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
>
> OK then, so what is the voltage reading on the left-hand base of T3 with the
> MG frequency pot at 0 and at 10? Also what is the emitter voltage at with
> VR5 fully clockwise/counter clockwise? The tricky part is that the frequency
> is determined by the current input at IC21 pin 16, which isn¹t so easy to
> measure. But the voltages into the circuit might give us some clues...
>
> Cheers,
> A
>

Hi Daniel,

Just wanted to clarify something. Looking at the transistor, sloped face
towards you, is the reverse of what you see in the schematic. So the
left-hand base physically is the right hand one on the diagram. I have some
further readings for you as the emitter voltages don¹t look quite right.
Here are some voltages to compare from a working circuit:

This time looking from the front of T3, sloped face towards you ,working on
all 5 pins left to right.

Pin 1: fixed 5.0v
Pin 2: -13.95v to ­3.5v (0 ­10 on MG freq)
Pin 3: 5.4v to 5.6v (0 ­10 on MG freq). This centre pin is the emitter and
this should also alter in voltage as you adjust VR5
Pin 4: Fixed 5.0v
Pin 5: 4.7 to 4.9 as above.

BTW Have you noticed the transistor is symmetrical? You can solder it in
either way!
So, as you can see. Pin 16, IC21 should fluctuate quite a bit depending on
the MG freq. setting. Sorry I am not getting to the bottom of this for you.
This remote diagnostic business is pretty difficult at the best of times.

Let me know what you find.

Cheers,
Andy

On 13/09/2010 18:40, "Daniel A" <apophis93@yahoo.com> wrote

>
> Andy,
>
> Here are the readings for T3
>
> With Freq set to 0 the left Base (pin1) reads at approx +4.95v
> With Freq set to 10 the left Base (pin1) reads at approx +4.95v (ie.. no
> change)
>
> With VR5 fully counter clockwise the Emmitter (pin3) is reading at a slightly
> higher voltage then the base I would say approx +5.2v
> And I get the same exact reading when I rotate VR5 fully clockwise.
>
> I did do a reading on pin 16 of IC21 and I am getting -15v
>
> - Daniel
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

> Just wanted to clarify something. Looking at the transistor, sloped face
> towards you, is the reverse of what you see in the schematic. So the
> left-hand base physically is the right hand one on the diagram. I have some
> further readings for you as the emitter voltages don¹t look quite right.

Correct.

> Pin 1: fixed 5.0v

Good

> Pin 2: -13.95v to ­3.5v (0 ­10 on MG freq)

Well it goes down to -13.95v but only is hitting 0.35 to 0.4v on the top end.

> Pin 3: 5.4v to 5.6v (0 ­10 on MG freq). This centre pin is the emitter and
> this should also alter in voltage as you adjust VR5

Yes when you rotate MG Freq but no change when adjusting VR5.

> Pin 4: Fixed 5.0v

Good.

> Pin 5: 4.7 to 4.9 as above.

Good.

>
> BTW Have you noticed the transistor is symmetrical? You can solder it in
> either way!
> So, as you can see. Pin 16, IC21 should fluctuate quite a bit depending on
> the MG freq. setting. Sorry I am not getting to the bottom of this for you.

When adjusting the MG Freq Pin16 of IC 21 is only shifting perhaps a half of a volt on this board.

> This remote diagnostic business is pretty difficult at the best of times.

I really appreciate the support in getting this one running.

- Daniel

Andy,

Let me correct something about pin 2 of T3. In relooking at these values this morning VR5 does change the voltage the top end is what I stated with a slight saw wave pattern at 0.35v the counter clock wise position will bring the voltage down to -9v. This is with the MG Freq set to 10. When Freq is set to 0 VR5 does not appear to have that much of an effect on voltage.

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
>
> > Just wanted to clarify something. Looking at the transistor, sloped face
> > towards you, is the reverse of what you see in the schematic. So the
> > left-hand base physically is the right hand one on the diagram. I have some
> > further readings for you as the emitter voltages don¹t look quite right.
>
> Correct.
>
>
> > Pin 1: fixed 5.0v
>
> Good
>
> > Pin 2: -13.95v to ­3.5v (0 ­10 on MG freq)
>
> Well it goes down to -13.95v but only is hitting 0.35 to 0.4v on the top end.
>
> > Pin 3: 5.4v to 5.6v (0 ­10 on MG freq). This centre pin is the emitter and
> > this should also alter in voltage as you adjust VR5
>
> Yes when you rotate MG Freq but no change when adjusting VR5.
>
> > Pin 4: Fixed 5.0v
>
> Good.
>
> > Pin 5: 4.7 to 4.9 as above.
>
> Good.
>
>
> >
> > BTW Have you noticed the transistor is symmetrical? You can solder it in
> > either way!
> > So, as you can see. Pin 16, IC21 should fluctuate quite a bit depending on
> > the MG freq. setting. Sorry I am not getting to the bottom of this for you.
>
> When adjusting the MG Freq Pin16 of IC 21 is only shifting perhaps a half of a volt on this board.
>
> > This remote diagnostic business is pretty difficult at the best of times.
>
>
> I really appreciate the support in getting this one running.
>
> - Daniel
>

Just checking in see if any further steps to trouble shoot this one..

- Daniel

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
> Let me correct something about pin 2 of T3. In relooking at these values this morning VR5 does change the voltage the top end is what I stated with a slight saw wave pattern at 0.35v the counter clock wise position will bring the voltage down to -9v. This is with the MG Freq set to 10. When Freq is set to 0 VR5 does not appear to have that much of an effect on voltage.
>
> - Daniel
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
> >
> > Andy,
> >
> >
> > > Just wanted to clarify something. Looking at the transistor, sloped face
> > > towards you, is the reverse of what you see in the schematic. So the
> > > left-hand base physically is the right hand one on the diagram. I have some
> > > further readings for you as the emitter voltages don¹t look quite right.
> >
> > Correct.
> >
> >
> > > Pin 1: fixed 5.0v
> >
> > Good
> >
> > > Pin 2: -13.95v to ­3.5v (0 ­10 on MG freq)
> >
> > Well it goes down to -13.95v but only is hitting 0.35 to 0.4v on the top end.
> >
> > > Pin 3: 5.4v to 5.6v (0 ­10 on MG freq). This centre pin is the emitter and
> > > this should also alter in voltage as you adjust VR5
> >
> > Yes when you rotate MG Freq but no change when adjusting VR5.
> >
> > > Pin 4: Fixed 5.0v
> >
> > Good.
> >
> > > Pin 5: 4.7 to 4.9 as above.
> >
> > Good.
> >
> >
> > >
> > > BTW Have you noticed the transistor is symmetrical? You can solder it in
> > > either way!
> > > So, as you can see. Pin 16, IC21 should fluctuate quite a bit depending on
> > > the MG freq. setting. Sorry I am not getting to the bottom of this for you.
> >
> > When adjusting the MG Freq Pin16 of IC 21 is only shifting perhaps a half of a volt on this board.
> >
> > > This remote diagnostic business is pretty difficult at the best of times.
> >
> >
> > I really appreciate the support in getting this one running.
> >
> > - Daniel
> >
>