LOL, Doh! Why I did not notice that is beyond me. Spending to much time staring at stripes on resistors I guess... - Daniel --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "y964omw" <andy@...> wrote: > > Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is this one here: > > http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877 > > Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same! > > Cheers, > andy > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote: > > > > Thanks Andy for the help. > > > > I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;) > > > > - Daniel > > > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Jury <andy@> wrote: > > > > > > Hi Daniel, > > > > > > Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him Daniel > > > because he doesn¹t like it! > > > > > > Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of me. > > > I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up. > > > > > > The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with +5v. > > > The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main +5v > > > rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod. All > > > my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current > > > location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you have > > > added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a separate > > > wire? They must have had their reasons... > > > > > > As for the 367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a moment... > > > > > > Be back soon... > > > > > > Andy > > > > > > > > > On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Andy, > > > > > > > > Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question: > > > > > > > > 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace: > > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG > > > > > > > > 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser sent some > > > > of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are 4 > > > > installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this factor > > > > would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see > > > > anything else send me a note. > > > > > > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG > > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG > > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG > > > > http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG > > > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > Daniel > > > > > > > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew > > > > Jury <andy@> wrote: > > > >> > > > > >> > Daniel, > > > >> > > > > >> > Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say you > > > >> > description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel > > > >> controls > > > >> > are set to default and you switched the 367 to test, but you can¹t get the > > > >> > LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of the > > > >> > circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a pulse > > > >> > train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all the > > > >> > resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is > > > >> > correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch! If you > > > >> > want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for us to > > > >> > see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem. > > > >> > > > > >> > If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure some > > > >> > voltages from a working board for you to compare with. > > > >> > > > > >> > On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1 is part > > > >> > of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output. Therefore, D1 > > > >> > should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place is either > > > >> > as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v rail in the > > > >> > top left-hand corner of the PSU. > > > >> > > > > >> > Hope this helps, > > > >> > Andy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > >
Message
Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration
2010-08-21 by Daniel A
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