Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone help me out 
with the DTXpress settings for the new snare.

I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the middle.

I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and rim sound a 
Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to the snare 
and the rim mono connected to 9/10.

Thanks, Dennis

Hi Dennis,

Scott just got one of these, too. Maybe he'll have another story. I 
have noticed a hot spot in the middle of the AX14S under the 
trigger; it's unavoidable. But you can work around it. What I did is 
change the type of pad for input 2 from TP snare to DT snare. My 
global trigger setting is DT 10/20 (medium is the default). Because 
the AX14S is on a separate stand, you don't have to worry about 
crosstalk. I have rejection and specific rejection at zero and self-
rejection at 1 or 2, depending on which way the wind blows. My gain 
is usually high, in the 90s, and my minimum velocity at rock bottom. 
One more component to this ultra-hot setup is to flip the DIP switch 
corresponding to input 2 at the back of the module to the up 
position. You'll need a tiny screwdriver or needle to do it, unless 
you've got great finger nails. The result should be good sensitivity 
all around the drum, from center to rim, almost as though the module 
were capable of positional sensing. Although I cannot claim 
perfection for this method (I've had an inexplicable dropout or 
two), it generally works pretty well. Pressed rolls near the tension 
rods were unthinkable with the standard gum rubber, or even the 
otherwise wonderful Pintech ConcertCasts. But now they're pretty 
accurate--not to say that tweaking is a thing of the past. It goes 
on forever.

Ed

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "dennisw562003 <dennisw56@i...>" 
<dennisw56@i...> wrote:
> I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone help me out 
> with the DTXpress settings for the new snare.
> 
> I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the middle.
> 
> I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and rim sound 
a 

> Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to the snare 
> and the rim mono connected to 9/10.
> 
> Thanks, Dennis

Hey, Dennis
My story is about the same as Ed's. But I have the switch in back low, 
and gain around 60. I'm still experimenting. Great response though. I 
am going to try Ed's settings. Nothing to lose, and maybe lots to 
gain.. About your no trigger at all near the rim... Did you tension 
the head after you got it? Pintech says it needs a full turn on each 
rod.I think mine was more like three. This can make a huge difference 
in response.The tighter the head, the less noticeable the hot spot is, 
also.
The only 'dropouts I've noticed is when I do a "pressroll/flam".
I don't know what it is really called, but when you do a short 
pressroll with the right hand followed immediately by a shot with the 
left.Anyway, if I don't end that pressroll part soon enough, the 
left-hand-shot doesn't trigger.I've had to modify my playing a bit to 
ensure it is heard. Or worse, play it properly, with both hands doing 
the roll (R-L-R-L) with the last L played hard. It's all played in the 
time it takes to play a flam. I don't know why the last one drops out. 
My rejection settings are all '0'.
This problem caused me to set up a kit with my extra pad as a second 
indetical snare. The drums in the Door's 'Love Me Two Times' is played 
as a snare shuffle, with flams on the 2 and 4.Some of my 2's and 4's 
were dropping out, so I set up the other pad as snare, and played it 
as though it were the HiHat. Problem solved. I hope all this makes 
sense...And I hope it helps!!!

Good luck

Scott

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus 
<liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:

> Hi Dennis,
> 
> Scott just got one of these, too. Maybe he'll have another story. I 
> have noticed a hot spot in the middle of the AX14S under the 
> trigger; it's unavoidable. But you can work around it. What I did is 
> change the type of pad for input 2 from TP snare to DT snare. My 
> global trigger setting is DT 10/20 (medium is the default). Because 
> the AX14S is on a separate stand, you don't have to worry about 
> crosstalk. I have rejection and specific rejection at zero and self-
> rejection at 1 or 2, depending on which way the wind blows. My gain 
> is usually high, in the 90s, and my minimum velocity at rock bottom. 
> One more component to this ultra-hot setup is to flip the DIP switch 
> corresponding to input 2 at the back of the module to the up 
> position. You'll need a tiny screwdriver or needle to do it, unless 
> you've got great finger nails. The result should be good sensitivity 
> all around the drum, from center to rim, almost as though the module 
> were capable of positional sensing. Although I cannot claim 
> perfection for this method (I've had an inexplicable dropout or 
> two), it generally works pretty well. Pressed rolls near the tension 
> rods were unthinkable with the standard gum rubber, or even the 
> otherwise wonderful Pintech ConcertCasts. But now they're pretty 
> accurate--not to say that tweaking is a thing of the past. It goes 
> on forever.
> 
> Ed
> 
> --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "dennisw562003 <dennisw56@i...>" 
> <dennisw56@i...> wrote:
> > I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone help me out 
> > with the DTXpress settings for the new snare.
> > 
> > I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the middle.
> > 
> > I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and rim sound 
> a 
> > Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to the snare 
> > and the rim mono connected to 9/10.
> > 
> > Thanks, Dennis

This is just a test. I just posted and it does not come up. It was a 
long one and I hope I don't have to post again.
Scott

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus 
<liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:

> Hi Dennis,
> 
> Scott just got one of these, too. Maybe he'll have another story. I 
> have noticed a hot spot in the middle of the AX14S under the 
> trigger; it's unavoidable. But you can work around it. What I did is 
> change the type of pad for input 2 from TP snare to DT snare. My 
> global trigger setting is DT 10/20 (medium is the default). Because 
> the AX14S is on a separate stand, you don't have to worry about 
> crosstalk. I have rejection and specific rejection at zero and self-
> rejection at 1 or 2, depending on which way the wind blows. My gain 
> is usually high, in the 90s, and my minimum velocity at rock bottom. 
> One more component to this ultra-hot setup is to flip the DIP switch 
> corresponding to input 2 at the back of the module to the up 
> position. You'll need a tiny screwdriver or needle to do it, unless 
> you've got great finger nails. The result should be good sensitivity 
> all around the drum, from center to rim, almost as though the module 
> were capable of positional sensing. Although I cannot claim 
> perfection for this method (I've had an inexplicable dropout or 
> two), it generally works pretty well. Pressed rolls near the tension 
> rods were unthinkable with the standard gum rubber, or even the 
> otherwise wonderful Pintech ConcertCasts. But now they're pretty 
> accurate--not to say that tweaking is a thing of the past. It goes 
> on forever.
> 
> Ed
> 
> --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "dennisw562003 <dennisw56@i...>" 
> <dennisw56@i...> wrote:
> > I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone help me out 
> > with the DTXpress settings for the new snare.
> > 
> > I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the middle.
> > 
> > I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and rim sound 
> a 
> > Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to the snare 
> > and the rim mono connected to 9/10.
> > 
> > Thanks, Dennis

Scott,

If your self-rejection setting is at 0, and you're still getting  
dropouts when you buzz with one hand and try a whack with the other, 
the trigger or trigger/module may be masking itself when the 
transition is too abrupt and dynamic. (I seem to recall something 
like that to be an artifact of piezos but not FSRs, but don't quote 
me). But raising sensitivity can cover a multitude of sins. I'm 
curious to learn what flipping the DIP and raising the gain will do 
in your case. The result may not necessarily be compatible with your 
playing style or voicings. By the way, I think that my sporadic 
dropouts have a similar pattern. Thanks for doing a better analysis 
of them. One caution when tightening heads on electronic drums: you 
can strip the rods. Take it from me. I tighten like mad and have had 
to change rods and lugs on two different drums. Moderation is the 
key. But then again, everybody is probably more intelligent about it 
than I am.

Ed


--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "hairytrigger <artifax@i...>" 
<artifax@i...> wrote:
> Hey, Dennis
> My story is about the same as Ed's. But I have the switch in back 
low, 
> and gain around 60. I'm still experimenting. Great response 
though. I 
> am going to try Ed's settings. Nothing to lose, and maybe lots to 
> gain.. About your no trigger at all near the rim... Did you 
tension 
> the head after you got it? Pintech says it needs a full turn on 
each 
> rod.I think mine was more like three. This can make a huge 
difference 
> in response.The tighter the head, the less noticeable the hot spot 
is, 
> also.
> The only 'dropouts I've noticed is when I do a "pressroll/flam".
> I don't know what it is really called, but when you do a short 
> pressroll with the right hand followed immediately by a shot with 
the 
> left.Anyway, if I don't end that pressroll part soon enough, the 
> left-hand-shot doesn't trigger.I've had to modify my playing a bit 
to 
> ensure it is heard. Or worse, play it properly, with both hands 
doing 
> the roll (R-L-R-L) with the last L played hard. It's all played in 
the 
> time it takes to play a flam. I don't know why the last one drops 
out. 
> My rejection settings are all '0'.
> This problem caused me to set up a kit with my extra pad as a 
second 
> indetical snare. The drums in the Door's 'Love Me Two Times' is 
played 
> as a snare shuffle, with flams on the 2 and 4.Some of my 2's and 
4's 
> were dropping out, so I set up the other pad as snare, and played 
it 
> as though it were the HiHat. Problem solved. I hope all this makes 
> sense...And I hope it helps!!!
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Scott
> 
> --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus 
> <liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:
> > Hi Dennis,
> > 
> > Scott just got one of these, too. Maybe he'll have another 
story. I 
> > have noticed a hot spot in the middle of the AX14S under the 
> > trigger; it's unavoidable. But you can work around it. What I 
did is 
> > change the type of pad for input 2 from TP snare to DT snare. My 
> > global trigger setting is DT 10/20 (medium is the default). 
Because 
> > the AX14S is on a separate stand, you don't have to worry about 
> > crosstalk. I have rejection and specific rejection at zero and 
self-
> > rejection at 1 or 2, depending on which way the wind blows. My 
gain 
> > is usually high, in the 90s, and my minimum velocity at rock 
bottom. 
> > One more component to this ultra-hot setup is to flip the DIP 
switch 
> > corresponding to input 2 at the back of the module to the up 
> > position. You'll need a tiny screwdriver or needle to do it, 
unless 
> > you've got great finger nails. The result should be good 
sensitivity 
> > all around the drum, from center to rim, almost as though the 
module 
> > were capable of positional sensing. Although I cannot claim 
> > perfection for this method (I've had an inexplicable dropout or 
> > two), it generally works pretty well. Pressed rolls near the 
tension 
> > rods were unthinkable with the standard gum rubber, or even the 
> > otherwise wonderful Pintech ConcertCasts. But now they're pretty 
> > accurate--not to say that tweaking is a thing of the past. It 
goes 
> > on forever.
> > 
> > Ed
> > 
> > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "dennisw562003 
<dennisw56@i...>" 
> > <dennisw56@i...> wrote:
> > > I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone help me 
out 
> > > with the DTXpress settings for the new snare.
> > > 
> > > I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the middle.
> > > 
> > > I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and rim 
sound 
> > a 
> > > Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to the 
snare 

> > > and the rim mono connected to 9/10.
> > > 
> > > Thanks, Dennis

Thanks, Ed.
I will try raising the gain and flipping the switch.
I hope I haven't tightened the head beyond reason. Just trying to get 
it to feel good!
Scott

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus 
<liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:

> Scott,
> 
> If your self-rejection setting is at 0, and you're still getting  
> dropouts when you buzz with one hand and try a whack with the other, 
> the trigger or trigger/module may be masking itself when the 
> transition is too abrupt and dynamic. (I seem to recall something 
> like that to be an artifact of piezos but not FSRs, but don't quote 
> me). But raising sensitivity can cover a multitude of sins. I'm 
> curious to learn what flipping the DIP and raising the gain will do 
> in your case. The result may not necessarily be compatible with your 
> playing style or voicings. By the way, I think that my sporadic 
> dropouts have a similar pattern. Thanks for doing a better analysis 
> of them. One caution when tightening heads on electronic drums: you 
> can strip the rods. Take it from me. I tighten like mad and have had 
> to change rods and lugs on two different drums. Moderation is the 
> key. But then again, everybody is probably more intelligent about it 
> than I am.
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "hairytrigger <artifax@i...>" 
> <artifax@i...> wrote:
> > Hey, Dennis
> > My story is about the same as Ed's. But I have the switch in back 
> low, 
> > and gain around 60. I'm still experimenting. Great response 
> though. I 
> > am going to try Ed's settings. Nothing to lose, and maybe lots to 
> > gain.. About your no trigger at all near the rim... Did you 
> tension 
> > the head after you got it? Pintech says it needs a full turn on 
> each 
> > rod.I think mine was more like three. This can make a huge 
> difference 
> > in response.The tighter the head, the less noticeable the hot spot 
> is, 
> > also.
> > The only 'dropouts I've noticed is when I do a "pressroll/flam".
> > I don't know what it is really called, but when you do a short 
> > pressroll with the right hand followed immediately by a shot with 
> the 
> > left.Anyway, if I don't end that pressroll part soon enough, the 
> > left-hand-shot doesn't trigger.I've had to modify my playing a bit 
> to 
> > ensure it is heard. Or worse, play it properly, with both hands 
> doing 
> > the roll (R-L-R-L) with the last L played hard. It's all played in 
> the 
> > time it takes to play a flam. I don't know why the last one drops 
> out. 
> > My rejection settings are all '0'.
> > This problem caused me to set up a kit with my extra pad as a 
> second 
> > indetical snare. The drums in the Door's 'Love Me Two Times' is 
> played 
> > as a snare shuffle, with flams on the 2 and 4.Some of my 2's and 
> 4's 
> > were dropping out, so I set up the other pad as snare, and played 
> it 
> > as though it were the HiHat. Problem solved. I hope all this makes 
> > sense...And I hope it helps!!!
> > 
> > Good luck
> > 
> > Scott
> > 
> > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus 
> > <liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:
> > > Hi Dennis,
> > > 
> > > Scott just got one of these, too. Maybe he'll have another 
> story. I 
> > > have noticed a hot spot in the middle of the AX14S under the 
> > > trigger; it's unavoidable. But you can work around it. What I 
> did is 
> > > change the type of pad for input 2 from TP snare to DT snare. My 
> > > global trigger setting is DT 10/20 (medium is the default). 
> Because 
> > > the AX14S is on a separate stand, you don't have to worry about 
> > > crosstalk. I have rejection and specific rejection at zero and 
> self-
> > > rejection at 1 or 2, depending on which way the wind blows. My 
> gain 
> > > is usually high, in the 90s, and my minimum velocity at rock 
> bottom. 
> > > One more component to this ultra-hot setup is to flip the DIP 
> switch 
> > > corresponding to input 2 at the back of the module to the up 
> > > position. You'll need a tiny screwdriver or needle to do it, 
> unless 
> > > you've got great finger nails. The result should be good 
> sensitivity 
> > > all around the drum, from center to rim, almost as though the 
> module 
> > > were capable of positional sensing. Although I cannot claim 
> > > perfection for this method (I've had an inexplicable dropout or 
> > > two), it generally works pretty well. Pressed rolls near the 
> tension 
> > > rods were unthinkable with the standard gum rubber, or even the 
> > > otherwise wonderful Pintech ConcertCasts. But now they're pretty 
> > > accurate--not to say that tweaking is a thing of the past. It 
> goes 
> > > on forever.
> > > 
> > > Ed
> > > 
> > > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "dennisw562003 
> <dennisw56@i...>" 
> > > <dennisw56@i...> wrote:
> > > > I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone help me 
> out 
> > > > with the DTXpress settings for the new snare.
> > > > 
> > > > I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the middle.
> > > > 
> > > > I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and rim 
> sound 
> > > a 
> > > > Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to the 
> snare 
> > > > and the rim mono connected to 9/10.
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks, Dennis

Scott,

Mesh heads seem to bring out the torque in me, and I've paid the 
price. And I still have more to pay; I noticed at least one more 
damaged rod yesterday. I guess I've become a charter member of the 
Steward Copeland "you can never get the heads too tight" club. I was 
never that way with acoustics. Pintech does well by me. 

Ed

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "hairytrigger <artifax@i...>" 
<artifax@i...> wrote:
> Thanks, Ed.
> I will try raising the gain and flipping the switch.
> I hope I haven't tightened the head beyond reason. Just trying to 
get 
> it to feel good!
> Scott
> 
> --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus 
> <liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:
> > Scott,
> > 
> > If your self-rejection setting is at 0, and you're still 
getting  
> > dropouts when you buzz with one hand and try a whack with the 
other, 
> > the trigger or trigger/module may be masking itself when the 
> > transition is too abrupt and dynamic. (I seem to recall 
something 
> > like that to be an artifact of piezos but not FSRs, but don't 
quote 
> > me). But raising sensitivity can cover a multitude of sins. I'm 
> > curious to learn what flipping the DIP and raising the gain will 
do 
> > in your case. The result may not necessarily be compatible with 
your 
> > playing style or voicings. By the way, I think that my sporadic 
> > dropouts have a similar pattern. Thanks for doing a better 
analysis 
> > of them. One caution when tightening heads on electronic drums: 
you 
> > can strip the rods. Take it from me. I tighten like mad and have 
had 
> > to change rods and lugs on two different drums. Moderation is 
the 
> > key. But then again, everybody is probably more intelligent 
about it 
> > than I am.
> > 
> > Ed
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "hairytrigger <artifax@i...>" 
> > <artifax@i...> wrote:
> > > Hey, Dennis
> > > My story is about the same as Ed's. But I have the switch in 
back 
> > low, 
> > > and gain around 60. I'm still experimenting. Great response 
> > though. I 
> > > am going to try Ed's settings. Nothing to lose, and maybe lots 
to 
> > > gain.. About your no trigger at all near the rim... Did you 
> > tension 
> > > the head after you got it? Pintech says it needs a full turn 
on 
> > each 
> > > rod.I think mine was more like three. This can make a huge 
> > difference 
> > > in response.The tighter the head, the less noticeable the hot 
spot 
> > is, 
> > > also.
> > > The only 'dropouts I've noticed is when I do 
a "pressroll/flam".
> > > I don't know what it is really called, but when you do a short 
> > > pressroll with the right hand followed immediately by a shot 
with 
> > the 
> > > left.Anyway, if I don't end that pressroll part soon enough, 
the 
> > > left-hand-shot doesn't trigger.I've had to modify my playing a 
bit 
> > to 
> > > ensure it is heard. Or worse, play it properly, with both 
hands 
> > doing 
> > > the roll (R-L-R-L) with the last L played hard. It's all 
played in 
> > the 
> > > time it takes to play a flam. I don't know why the last one 
drops 
> > out. 
> > > My rejection settings are all '0'.
> > > This problem caused me to set up a kit with my extra pad as a 
> > second 
> > > indetical snare. The drums in the Door's 'Love Me Two Times' 
is 
> > played 
> > > as a snare shuffle, with flams on the 2 and 4.Some of my 2's 
and 
> > 4's 
> > > were dropping out, so I set up the other pad as snare, and 
played 
> > it 
> > > as though it were the HiHat. Problem solved. I hope all this 
makes 
> > > sense...And I hope it helps!!!
> > > 
> > > Good luck
> > > 
> > > Scott
> > > 
> > > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus 
> > > <liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote:
> > > > Hi Dennis,
> > > > 
> > > > Scott just got one of these, too. Maybe he'll have another 
> > story. I 
> > > > have noticed a hot spot in the middle of the AX14S under the 
> > > > trigger; it's unavoidable. But you can work around it. What 
I 
> > did is 
> > > > change the type of pad for input 2 from TP snare to DT 
snare. My 
> > > > global trigger setting is DT 10/20 (medium is the default). 
> > Because 
> > > > the AX14S is on a separate stand, you don't have to worry 
about 
> > > > crosstalk. I have rejection and specific rejection at zero 
and 
> > self-
> > > > rejection at 1 or 2, depending on which way the wind blows. 
My 
> > gain 
> > > > is usually high, in the 90s, and my minimum velocity at rock 
> > bottom. 
> > > > One more component to this ultra-hot setup is to flip the 
DIP 
> > switch 
> > > > corresponding to input 2 at the back of the module to the up 
> > > > position. You'll need a tiny screwdriver or needle to do it, 
> > unless 
> > > > you've got great finger nails. The result should be good 
> > sensitivity 
> > > > all around the drum, from center to rim, almost as though 
the 
> > module 
> > > > were capable of positional sensing. Although I cannot claim 
> > > > perfection for this method (I've had an inexplicable dropout 
or 
> > > > two), it generally works pretty well. Pressed rolls near the 
> > tension 
> > > > rods were unthinkable with the standard gum rubber, or even 
the 
> > > > otherwise wonderful Pintech ConcertCasts. But now they're 
pretty 
> > > > accurate--not to say that tweaking is a thing of the past. 
It 
> > goes 
> > > > on forever.
> > > > 
> > > > Ed
> > > > 
> > > > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "dennisw562003 
> > <dennisw56@i...>" 
> > > > <dennisw56@i...> wrote:
> > > > > I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone 
help me 
> > out 
> > > > > with the DTXpress settings for the new snare.
> > > > > 
> > > > > I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the 
middle.
> > > > > 
> > > > > I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and 
rim 
> > sound 
> > > > a 
> > > > > Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to 
the 

> > snare 
> > > > > and the rim mono connected to 9/10.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Thanks, Dennis