Thanks, Ed. I will try raising the gain and flipping the switch. I hope I haven't tightened the head beyond reason. Just trying to get it to feel good! Scott --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus <liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote: > Scott, > > If your self-rejection setting is at 0, and you're still getting > dropouts when you buzz with one hand and try a whack with the other, > the trigger or trigger/module may be masking itself when the > transition is too abrupt and dynamic. (I seem to recall something > like that to be an artifact of piezos but not FSRs, but don't quote > me). But raising sensitivity can cover a multitude of sins. I'm > curious to learn what flipping the DIP and raising the gain will do > in your case. The result may not necessarily be compatible with your > playing style or voicings. By the way, I think that my sporadic > dropouts have a similar pattern. Thanks for doing a better analysis > of them. One caution when tightening heads on electronic drums: you > can strip the rods. Take it from me. I tighten like mad and have had > to change rods and lugs on two different drums. Moderation is the > key. But then again, everybody is probably more intelligent about it > than I am. > > Ed > > > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "hairytrigger <artifax@i...>" > <artifax@i...> wrote: > > Hey, Dennis > > My story is about the same as Ed's. But I have the switch in back > low, > > and gain around 60. I'm still experimenting. Great response > though. I > > am going to try Ed's settings. Nothing to lose, and maybe lots to > > gain.. About your no trigger at all near the rim... Did you > tension > > the head after you got it? Pintech says it needs a full turn on > each > > rod.I think mine was more like three. This can make a huge > difference > > in response.The tighter the head, the less noticeable the hot spot > is, > > also. > > The only 'dropouts I've noticed is when I do a "pressroll/flam". > > I don't know what it is really called, but when you do a short > > pressroll with the right hand followed immediately by a shot with > the > > left.Anyway, if I don't end that pressroll part soon enough, the > > left-hand-shot doesn't trigger.I've had to modify my playing a bit > to > > ensure it is heard. Or worse, play it properly, with both hands > doing > > the roll (R-L-R-L) with the last L played hard. It's all played in > the > > time it takes to play a flam. I don't know why the last one drops > out. > > My rejection settings are all '0'. > > This problem caused me to set up a kit with my extra pad as a > second > > indetical snare. The drums in the Door's 'Love Me Two Times' is > played > > as a snare shuffle, with flams on the 2 and 4.Some of my 2's and > 4's > > were dropping out, so I set up the other pad as snare, and played > it > > as though it were the HiHat. Problem solved. I hope all this makes > > sense...And I hope it helps!!! > > > > Good luck > > > > Scott > > > > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "liberatusvirus > > <liberatusvirus@y...>" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote: > > > Hi Dennis, > > > > > > Scott just got one of these, too. Maybe he'll have another > story. I > > > have noticed a hot spot in the middle of the AX14S under the > > > trigger; it's unavoidable. But you can work around it. What I > did is > > > change the type of pad for input 2 from TP snare to DT snare. My > > > global trigger setting is DT 10/20 (medium is the default). > Because > > > the AX14S is on a separate stand, you don't have to worry about > > > crosstalk. I have rejection and specific rejection at zero and > self- > > > rejection at 1 or 2, depending on which way the wind blows. My > gain > > > is usually high, in the 90s, and my minimum velocity at rock > bottom. > > > One more component to this ultra-hot setup is to flip the DIP > switch > > > corresponding to input 2 at the back of the module to the up > > > position. You'll need a tiny screwdriver or needle to do it, > unless > > > you've got great finger nails. The result should be good > sensitivity > > > all around the drum, from center to rim, almost as though the > module > > > were capable of positional sensing. Although I cannot claim > > > perfection for this method (I've had an inexplicable dropout or > > > two), it generally works pretty well. Pressed rolls near the > tension > > > rods were unthinkable with the standard gum rubber, or even the > > > otherwise wonderful Pintech ConcertCasts. But now they're pretty > > > accurate--not to say that tweaking is a thing of the past. It > goes > > > on forever. > > > > > > Ed > > > > > > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "dennisw562003 > <dennisw56@i...>" > > > <dennisw56@i...> wrote: > > > > I have added the AX14 snare to my DTXpress. Can anyone help me > out > > > > with the DTXpress settings for the new snare. > > > > > > > > I only get sound when the head is hit directly in the middle. > > > > > > > > I also learned talking to Pintech, to get the snare and rim > sound > > > a > > > > Y1 splitter must be used with the head mono connected to the > snare > > > > and the rim mono connected to 9/10. > > > > > > > > Thanks, Dennis
Message
Re: Settings for Pintech AX14S Snare
2003-01-03 by hairytrigger <artifax@internetcds.com>
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