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Threeler

Threeler

2008-08-06 by adaaxs

I think I am feeling a bit dumb today. Or I am excited to get this up.
I am wrestling with this threeler and have some basic questions.  The first thing is that I 
realise that I have no understanding of how to  spec out or buy a rotary switch. If anyone 
knows of a simple way of expressing what to get I would be pleased. I see a 2 pole 4 position 
switch but nearly every 4 position switch I see is 3 poles. I don't get it and I am stuck for a 
switch.  

I also can't see 2 of the the wiring points for the switch unless it is A0, A1, V-, V+.

Is there a BOM for this puppy ?

Also is it cool to sub a 150pf for the 180 pf ?
Same question  for 47pf or 68pf forthe 56pf? 

best

g

Re: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler

2008-08-06 by loopcycle

for your rotary, you can use either a 2-pole 6-position or a 3-pole 4-position (since you're only going to use four lugs x2 anyway so it doesnt matter).  if you have trouble finding a 2p 6t or 3p 4t switch i can probably make an educated mouser guess for you (i picked up my rotary at a local electronics shop).

you have to extract the switch wiring from the schematic.  you will be switching between four combinations of +V and ground (two bit binary combinations).  at a0, positions 1 and 3 are connected to ground, and positions 2 and 4 are +V.  at a1, positions 1 and 2 are connected to ground and positions 3 and 4 are connected to +V.  i strapped the ground and +V connections to each other on the switch, ending up with only one +V and one ground wire from the switch to the PCB.

i did order a component kit from scott and im glad i did--it made the build go smoothly.



--- On Wed, 8/6/08, adaaxs <wonggster@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: adaaxs <wonggster@gmail.com>
Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler
To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 8:58 AM










    
            I think I am feeling a bit dumb today. Or I am excited to get this up.

I am wrestling with this threeler and have some basic questions.  The first thing is that I 

realise that I have no understanding of how to  spec out or buy a rotary switch. If anyone 

knows of a simple way of expressing what to get I would be pleased. I see a 2 pole 4 position 

switch but nearly every 4 position switch I see is 3 poles. I don't get it and I am stuck for a 

switch.  



I also can't see 2 of the the wiring points for the switch unless it is A0, A1, V-, V+.



Is there a BOM for this puppy ?



Also is it cool to sub a 150pf for the 180 pf ?

Same question  for 47pf or 68pf forthe 56pf? 



best



g

Re: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler

2008-08-07 by Scott Deyo

Mouser 105-14572 is the number. Not cheap anymore....

Like Hans says, though, if you find a cheaper 3p4t switch, use that -- 
and let us know the part number
: )
Make sure it's break-before-make, or non-shorting.

Scott Deyo
The Bridechamber
contact@...
http://www.bridechamber.com
Jealous Edison Record Kompany
http://www.jealousedison.com
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Aug 6, 2008, at 11:24 AM, loopcycle wrote:

> for your rotary, you can use either a 2-pole 6-position or a 3-pole 
> 4-position (since you're only going to use four lugs x2 anyway so it 
> doesnt matter).  if you have trouble finding a 2p 6t or 3p 4t switch i 
> can probably make an educated mouser guess for you (i picked up my 
> rotary at a local electronics shop).
>
> you have to extract the switch wiring from the schematic.  you will be 
> switching between four combinations of +V and ground (two bit binary 
> combinations).  at a0, positions 1 and 3 are connected to ground, and 
> positions 2 and 4 are +V.  at a1, positions 1 and 2 are connected to 
> ground and positions 3 and 4 are connected to +V.  i strapped the 
> ground and +V connections to each other on the switch, ending up with 
> only one +V and one ground wire from the switch to the PCB.
>
> i did order a component kit from scott and im  glad i did--it made the 
> build go smoothly.
>
>
>
> --- On Wed, 8/6/08, adaaxs <wonggster@...> wrote:
>> From: adaaxs <wonggster@...>
>> Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler
>> To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
>> Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 8:58 AM
>>
>>
>> I think I am feeling a bit dumb today. Or I am excited to get this up.
>>  I am wrestling with this threeler and have some basic questions. The 
>> first thing is that I
>>  realise that I have no understanding of how to spec out or buy a 
>> rotary switch. If anyone
>>  knows of a simple way of expressing what to get I would be pleased. 
>> I see a 2 pole 4 position
>>  switch but nearly every 4 position switch I see is 3 poles. I don't 
>> get it and I am stuck for a
>>  switch.
>>
>>  I also can't see 2 of the the wiring points for the switch unless it 
>> is A0, A1, V-, V+.
>>
>>  Is there a BOM for this puppy ?
>>
>>  Also is it cool to sub a 150pf for the 180 pf ?
>>  Same question for 47pf or 68pf forthe 56pf?
>>
>>  best
>>
>>  g
>>
>
>  
>

Re: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler

2008-08-07 by The Alison Project

not solder lugs but $3.75. this is what I ordered
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Deyo
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler

Mouser 105-14572 is the number. Not cheap anymore....

Like Hans says, though, if you find a cheaper 3p4t switch, use that -- and let us know the part number
: )
Make sure it's break-before-make, or non-shorting.

Scott Deyo
The Bridechamber
contact@...
http://www.bridechamber.com
Jealous Edison Record Kompany
http://www.jealousedison.com

Show quoted textHide quoted text

On Aug 6, 2008, at 11:24 AM, loopcycle wrote:

for your rotary, you can use either a 2-pole 6-position or a 3-pole 4-position (since you're only going to use four lugs x2 anyway so it doesnt matter). if you have trouble finding a 2p 6t or 3p 4t switch i can probably make an educated mouser guess for you (i picked up my rotary at a local electronics shop).

you have to extract the switch wiring from the schematic. you will be switching between four combinations of +V and ground (two bit binary combinations). at a0, positions 1 and 3 are connected to ground, and positions 2 and 4 are +V. at a1, positions 1 and 2 are connected to ground and positions 3 and 4 are connected to +V. i strapped the ground and +V connections to each other on the switch, ending up with only one +V and one ground wire from the switch to the PCB.

i did order a component kit from scott and im glad i did--it made the build go smoothly.



--- On Wed, 8/6/08, adaaxs com> wrote:
From: adaaxs
Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler
To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 8:58 AM


I think I am feeling a bit dumb today. Or I am excited to get this up.
I am wrestling with this threeler and have some basic questions. The first thing is that I
realise that I have no understanding of how to spec out or buy a rotary switch. If anyone
knows of a simple way of expressing what to get I would be pleased. I see a 2 pole 4 position
switch but nearly every 4 position switch I see is 3 poles. I don't get it and I am stuck for a
switch.

I also can't see 2 of the the wiring points for the switch unless it is A0, A1, V-, V+.

Is there a BOM for this puppy ?

Also is it cool to sub a 150pf for the 180 pf ?
Same question for 47pf or 68pf forthe 56pf?

best

g


Re: Threeler

2008-08-07 by adaaxs

Your explanation is over my head.  I only see 6 connection points left on my pcb: 2 
ground, a0, a1, V+, V-. and another ground at the other end.  I have a 2pole 5 position 
switch.


> 
> you have to extract the switch wiring from the schematic.  you will be switching between 
four combinations of +V and ground (two bit binary combinations).  at a0, positions 1 and 
3 are connected to ground, and positions 2 and 4 are +V.  at a1, positions 1 and 2 are 
connected to ground and positions 3 and 4 are connected to +V.  i strapped the ground 
and +V connections to each other on the switch, ending up with only one +V and one 
ground wire from the switch to the PCB.
> 
> i did order a component kit from scott and im glad i did--it made the build go 
smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> --- On Wed, 8/6/08, adaaxs <wonggster@...> wrote:
> From: adaaxs <wonggster@...>
> Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Threeler
> To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 8:58 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     
>             I think I am feeling a bit dumb today. Or I am excited to get this up.
> 
> I am wrestling with this threeler and have some basic questions.  The first thing is that I 
> 
> realise that I have no understanding of how to  spec out or buy a rotary switch. If 
anyone 
> 
> knows of a simple way of expressing what to get I would be pleased. I see a 2 pole 4 
position 
> 
> switch but nearly every 4 position switch I see is 3 poles. I don't get it and I am stuck for 
a 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> switch.  
> 
> 
> 
> I also can't see 2 of the the wiring points for the switch unless it is A0, A1, V-, V+.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a BOM for this puppy ?
> 
> 
> 
> Also is it cool to sub a 150pf for the 180 pf ?
> 
> Same question  for 47pf or 68pf forthe 56pf? 
> 
> 
> 
> best
> 
> 
> 
> g
>

Re: [ModularSynthPanels] Re: Threeler

2008-08-07 by loopcycle

Your switch will use four of those points on the pcb:

+V
ground
a0
a1

Hm, a 2-pole 5-position...so you should have two poles and ten positions total (five for each pole).  If so, you will only be using 8 of those positions (four for each pole).  Match up each pole with the first four switching points for that pole.  For example:

i used a 2-pole 6-position switch (2 poles in the center and 12 positions on the outside).  The positions were labeled 1-12.  I used positions 1, 2, 3, 4 for pole 1 and positions 7, 8, 9, 10 for pole 2.  So, when my switch was in the following positions A/B/C/D, where

A 3LP
B 2LP/1HP
C 1LP/2HP
D 3HP

...then

A  ::  pole 1 > 1  ::  pole 2 > 7
B  ::  pole 1 > 2  ::  pole 2 > 8
C  ::  pole 1 > 3  ::  pole 2 > 9
D  ::  pole 1 > 4  ::  pole 2 > 10
(positions 5, 6 are unused, so lugs 5, 6, 11, 12 left alone)

Here's how I made my connections:

a0 -> pole1
a1 -> pole2

strapped:  
ground -> 1, 3, 7, 8
+V -> 2, 4, 9, 10

After strapping the points on the switch, I just ran one wire for +V and one wire for ground back to the PCB.



*REMEMBER the preceeding example was for my switch.  If you have a five-position switch these will be different...probably something like:

A  ::  pole 1 > 1  ::  pole 2 > 6

B  ::  pole 1 > 2  ::  pole 2 > 7

C  ::  pole 1 > 3  ::  pole 2 > 8

D  ::  pole 1 > 4  ::  pole 2 > 9

Use your continuity checker on your DMM to make sure your results match these before you proceed.  If this is correct, then...

a0 -> pole1

a1 -> pole2



strapped:  

ground -> 1, 3, 6, 7

+V -> 2, 4, 8, 9
(position 5 is unused, so lugs 5 and 10 will be left alone.)

Does this make sense?








--- On Thu, 8/7/08, adaaxs <wonggster@...> wrote:
From: adaaxs <wonggster@...>
Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Re: Threeler
To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 8:16 AM










    
            Your explanation is over my head.  I only see 6 connection points left on my pcb: 2 

ground, a0, a1, V+, V-. and another ground at the other end.  I have a 2pole 5 position 

switch.



> 

> you have to extract the switch wiring from the schematic.  you will be switching between 

four combinations of +V and ground (two bit binary combinations) .  at a0, positions 1 and 

3 are connected to ground, and positions 2 and 4 are +V.  at a1, positions 1 and 2 are 

connected to ground and positions 3 and 4 are connected to +V.  i strapped the ground 

and +V connections to each other on the switch, ending up with only one +V and one 

ground wire from the switch to the PCB.

> 

> i did order a component kit from scott and im glad i did--it made the build go 

smoothly.

> 

> 

> 

> --- On Wed, 8/6/08, adaaxs <wonggster@. ..> wrote:

> From: adaaxs <wonggster@. ..>

> Subject: [ModularSynthPanels ] Threeler

> To: ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com

> Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 8:58 AM

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

>     

>             I think I am feeling a bit dumb today. Or I am excited to get this up.

> 

> I am wrestling with this threeler and have some basic questions.  The first thing is that I 

> 

> realise that I have no understanding of how to  spec out or buy a rotary switch. If 

anyone 

> 

> knows of a simple way of expressing what to get I would be pleased. I see a 2 pole 4 

position 

> 

> switch but nearly every 4 position switch I see is 3 poles. I don't get it and I am stuck for 

a 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 

> switch.  

> 

> 

> 

> I also can't see 2 of the the wiring points for the switch unless it is A0, A1, V-, V+.

> 

> 

> 

> Is there a BOM for this puppy ?

> 

> 

> 

> Also is it cool to sub a 150pf for the 180 pf ?

> 

> Same question  for 47pf or 68pf forthe 56pf? 

> 

> 

> 

> best

> 

> 

> 

> g

>

Re: Threeler

2008-08-09 by adaaxs

-Got it, very clear.  This should be pasted into the schemo page.  It's stuff like this that 
leaves projects half finished.
>
> Your switch will use four of those points on the pcb:
> 
> +V
> ground
> a0
> a1
> 
> Hm, a 2-pole 5-position...so you should have two poles and ten positions total (five for 
each pole).  If so, you will only be using 8 of those positions (four for each pole).  Match 
up each pole with the first four switching points for that pole.  For example:
> 
> i used a 2-pole 6-position switch (2 poles in the center and 12 positions on the 
outside).  The positions were labeled 1-12.  I used positions 1, 2, 3, 4 for pole 1 and 
positions 7, 8, 9, 10 for pole 2.  So, when my switch was in the following positions A/B/
C/D, where
> 
> A 3LP
> B 2LP/1HP
> C 1LP/2HP
> D 3HP
> 
> ...then
> 
> A  ::  pole 1 > 1  ::  pole 2 > 7
> B  ::  pole 1 > 2  ::  pole 2 > 8
> C  ::  pole 1 > 3  ::  pole 2 > 9
> D  ::  pole 1 > 4  ::  pole 2 > 10
> (positions 5, 6 are unused, so lugs 5, 6, 11, 12 left alone)
> 
> Here's how I made my connections:
> 
> a0 -> pole1
> a1 -> pole2
> 
> strapped:  
> ground -> 1, 3, 7, 8
> +V -> 2, 4, 9, 10
> 
> After strapping the points on the switch, I just ran one wire for +V and one wire for 
ground back to the PCB.
> 
> 
> 
> *REMEMBER the preceeding example was for my switch.  If you have a five-position 
switch these will be different...probably something like:
> 
> A  ::  pole 1 > 1  ::  pole 2 > 6
> 
> B  ::  pole 1 > 2  ::  pole 2 > 7
> 
> C  ::  pole 1 > 3  ::  pole 2 > 8
> 
> D  ::  pole 1 > 4  ::  pole 2 > 9
> 
> Use your continuity checker on your DMM to make sure your results match these before 
you proceed.  If this is correct, then...
> 
> a0 -> pole1
> 
> a1 -> pole2
> 
> 
> 
> strapped:  
> 
> ground -> 1, 3, 6, 7
> 
> +V -> 2, 4, 8, 9
> (position 5 is unused, so lugs 5 and 10 will be left alone.)
> 
> Does this make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- On Thu, 8/7/08, adaaxs <wonggster@...> wrote:
> From: adaaxs <wonggster@...>
> Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Re: Threeler
> To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 8:16 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     
>             Your explanation is over my head.  I only see 6 connection points left on my 
pcb: 2 
> 
> ground, a0, a1, V+, V-. and another ground at the other end.  I have a 2pole 5 position 
> 
> switch.
> 
> 
> 
> > 
> 
> > you have to extract the switch wiring from the schematic.  you will be switching 
between 
> 
> four combinations of +V and ground (two bit binary combinations) .  at a0, positions 1 
and 
> 
> 3 are connected to ground, and positions 2 and 4 are +V.  at a1, positions 1 and 2 are 
> 
> connected to ground and positions 3 and 4 are connected to +V.  i strapped the ground 
> 
> and +V connections to each other on the switch, ending up with only one +V and one 
> 
> ground wire from the switch to the PCB.
> 
> > 
> 
> > i did order a component kit from scott and im glad i did--it made the build go 
> 
> smoothly.
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > --- On Wed, 8/6/08, adaaxs <wonggster@ ..> wrote:
> 
> > From: adaaxs <wonggster@ ..>
> 
> > Subject: [ModularSynthPanels ] Threeler
> 
> > To: ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com
> 
> > Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 8:58 AM
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> >     
> 
> >             I think I am feeling a bit dumb today. Or I am excited to get this up.
> 
> > 
> 
> > I am wrestling with this threeler and have some basic questions.  The first thing is 
that I 
> 
> > 
> 
> > realise that I have no understanding of how to  spec out or buy a rotary switch. If 
> 
> anyone 
> 
> > 
> 
> > knows of a simple way of expressing what to get I would be pleased. I see a 2 pole 4 
> 
> position 
> 
> > 
> 
> > switch but nearly every 4 position switch I see is 3 poles. I don't get it and I am stuck 
for 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> a 
> 
> > 
> 
> > switch.  
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > I also can't see 2 of the the wiring points for the switch unless it is A0, A1, V-, V+.
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > Is there a BOM for this puppy ?
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > Also is it cool to sub a 150pf for the 180 pf ?
> 
> > 
> 
> > Same question  for 47pf or 68pf forthe 56pf? 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > best
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > g
> 
> >
>

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