RE: Repairing faulty AT sensor
2013-12-05 by <pyjamagroove@...>
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/yamahacs80/photos/albums/1557574004/lightbox/1720453728 There it is. You can see it´s pretty banged up there. And the

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2013-12-05 by <pyjamagroove@...>
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/yamahacs80/photos/albums/1557574004/lightbox/1720453728 There it is. You can see it´s pretty banged up there. And the
2013-12-05 by <joachim.milson@...>
... That s rather strange. Why would someone do that? This would only produce an increased current consumption. Are you sure that the 67k is between -15 and
2013-12-05 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Well, I´m back at the beginning. Adding resistors does not seem to change anything. The outgoing voltage from the AT sensor is 14.2V. It should be 4
2013-12-04 by <pyjamagroove@...>
So after placing the 6.7K resistor between -15 and T3 in place of the broken carbon track it came alive a little. I read 0.7V drop. So I guess I need a bigger
2013-12-04 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Ive just noticed ,that the little carbon track is broken ( the one between -15 and T3). What is it´s function? Resistance? Ive just noticed ,that the little
2013-12-04 by <pyjamagroove@...>
I´ve tracked my G3 AT problem to the sensor itself. After the keys were removed I´ve seen that somebody was there before me and placed a 67K resistor between
2013-12-04 by <joachim.milson@...>
Changing the wire seemed a risky task, and I didn t know what it was made of. So I used a drop of superglue between the metal strip and the wire (the wire was
2013-12-04 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Thanks for the tip Joachim. I will look into it. How did you repair your broken contact wires?
2013-12-04 by <joachim.milson@...>
I m glad you fixed it. Now, concerning the general velocity problem with your keyboard, you should check the velocity contacts closely. I ve just posted a
2013-12-03 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Resoldered 1M, now it works perfectly! Thanks everyone and especially Joachim for your patience. I´ve learned a lot today! Resoldered 1M, now it works
2013-12-03 by leefordwatford@bellsouth.net
Sorry for all of the posts... I traced signal all the way to CP3, right before the VCA (IC4). I get only sine at CP4. I checked the trimmer for that VCA, it s
2013-12-03 by <joachim.milson@...>
David certainly found it. The 1M resistor is most certainly defective or badly soldered.
2013-12-03 by <joachim.milson@...>
You write that you track signal to IC4. Do you mean that there is a voltage at pin 15 (D#5) as long as the key is pressed ? Normally, you should first measure
2013-12-03 by David Rogoff
... Sounds like you’re missing the 1MΩ resistor to ground (or the 22k - don’t remember which one is initial touch and which is aftertouch) for that note
2013-12-03 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Wow. Crazy. If I touch with my multimeter pin 3 or 15 of IC4 the key, AT, IT works! But the multimeter has to be turned on....I read there 0.14V to 6,5V fully
2013-12-03 by <pyjamagroove@...>
It´s a key related of course - cycling through the voices makes same effect on that key. Always high like aftertouch is maxed all the time... I swapped the IC
2013-12-03 by <joachim.milson@...>
OK. So there is some coherence in this issue. The first thing is to check the NMJ4558 (or what you changed them for) and the sockets. Also try swapping IC4 and
2013-12-03 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Hitting the velocity on that key does nothing. It´s always at full volume/brilliance. This board was fully recapped and new IC´s were installed in sockets. I
2013-12-03 by <joachim.milson@...>
Check velocity by ear for D#5. Compare with an other key. From the TSB, through the TKC and until the TWS, the velocity and the aftertouch signals follow the
2013-12-03 by <pyjamagroove@...>
I read at T2 -512 terminal +4.9V and it drops to 0 when pressed. Just like other keys. I don´t know is that it.. I read at T2 -512 terminal +4.9V and it drops
2013-12-03 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Ok, double checked -you´re right. They are the same. So I have AT there but can´t hear it work - it seems to be fully open all the time. How should I check
2013-12-03 by Joachim Milson
What happens at terminal 511 is OK. Could you check if the velocity is OK for D#5 ? Concerning terminal 505, it s a bit strange: if you press C#5, you should
2013-12-03 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Thanks Joachim, At the terminal 511 I read -0.49V with no key and +6.9V fully pressed.... At 505 I read -0.38V and it does not change pressed or not....
2013-12-03 by Robert Stewart
When probing cards, I put a sheet of A3 behind them and rest them on the rack. Seems to do the trick. ... When probing cards, I put a sheet of A3 behind them
2013-12-03 by leefordwatford@bellsouth.net
Thanks for the ideas! I like the table...when I pulled the card the first time I thought, it would be nice to have a flat surface to work on! I did check the
2013-12-03 by <joachim.milson@...>
Are you sure the velocity is OK for that key ? Check this first. I ll suppose so. (if not, ignore the lines below as the issue might not be the aftertouch).
2013-12-03 by rikard.latvala@...
table.JPG upploaded into the files section :) ... Från: rikard.latvala@posthem.se Till: yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com Datum: 2013-12-03 01:15 Ämne: Re:
2013-12-03 by rikard.latvala@...
Hey, Do you have access to an oscilloscope ? Try probing the output of the filter ic Easiest way to do this is to solder a wire to the output pin or do as I
2013-12-02 by leefordwatford@bellsouth.net
Hi, finally got a little time to try swapping filter chips around, same issue. I checked the trimmers, they seem okay, do I move on to wave shaper or
2013-12-02 by <pyjamagroove@...>
That is really weird. And it´s only one key! I still don´t know exactly how to track key signals so I have to ask....My D#5 key does not react to aftertouch.
2013-11-28 by Bob Stewart
Given how temperature sensitive they can be, I d put it up on blocks so you ve got good airflow from the bottom. ... Given how temperature sensitive they can
2013-11-27 by Nigel Cruickshank
Maybe place a block of wood under either side to get some air flow going on. I wouldn t risk it. ... Maybe place a block of wood under either side to get some
2013-11-27 by <pyjamagroove@...>
I´ve rearranged my home studio a bit and I´ve placed my CS80 on the flat surface. The top ventilation openings are uncovered but there is no airflow from
2013-11-25 by Bob Stewart
Might also be a filter chip failure causing the loss of square, saw and noise. Try swapping the filter chips with another card to see if the fault moves with
2013-11-25 by Rikard Latvala
Hey, about the light bulb, check if a well stocked gas station has them, I think I ve seen these 24v5w bulbs used in cars. If i remember correctly the
2013-11-25 by leefordwatford@bellsouth.net
Hi, thanks for the group, lots of good info! I recently acquired a CS60, that mostly works pretty well. The first, and easiest issue is to find out a modern
2013-11-24 by Bob Stewart
I ve had stability issues with 60s and 80s relating to heat. If kept on, they re not too bad, but have had issues if they ve been switched off for Ny length of
2013-11-24 by Florian Anwander
Hello David ... I did not have temperature related problems with the CS60s, but I can imagine, that the 80s really need the temperature. I already thougt about
2013-11-24 by Bob Stewart
If you were in the UK I d have buyers fighting over it!
2013-11-24 by <velomatte@...>
I have a very nice CS50 that has the problem I described in my last email (functioning but very quiet saw and ramp waves in VCO across all voices, with working
2013-11-24 by David Rogoff
Hi all. I donÆt think frequency counters are useful at all for tuning. You can do it all - and very quickly - just using a reference tone and beating tuning
2013-11-22 by Florian Anwander
Hello Frederik thanks for the welcome! ... Do you tune with a frequency counter or with a chromatic tuner? Until now I had no frequency counter, so I used a
2013-11-22 by Fredrik Segerfalk
Hi Florian and welcome to the group! That s a great and simple mod! I always turn the power off and on when tuning to reset the voice count. It s certainly
2013-11-22 by Florian Anwander
Hello I d like to introduce myself. My name ist Florian Anwander. I live in Munich, Germany, and I am doing synth repair as side job. I work most times on
2013-11-21 by <velomatte@...>
Guys, I am working on my CS50 and it seems like the saw and square waves on the VCO are really quiet compared to everything else. They turn on and off as they
2013-11-16 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Well, it`s not that I´m lazy guys. My knowledge of electronics is very basic and I don´t want to short anything. 1.Could someone walk me through on an
2013-11-15 by <pyjamagroove@...>
Well it got a little more complicated when I looked closer to it... - There is no IT at all on CH1 voice 7 - Keys A3 and H3 are producing much higher IT
2013-11-14 by <pyjamagroove@...>
That was it! Thanks Dave. I can go back to my repairs (breaking stuff) now. ... I’ve had this many times. You probably took out the +8.5v or -6.5v digital
2013-11-14 by David Rogoff
IÆve had this many times. You probably took out the +8.5v or -6.5v digital supply. ThereÆs 2 fuses - one for each. Watch out since (at least on the USA
2013-11-14 by <pyjamagroove@...>
It slowly becomes a horror. I was changing 0.33 caps on my TSB2 board and while soldering I accidentally turned the synth on with my elbow ( I never leave it