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ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-10-30 by David Shoemaker

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the help so far.

I replaced several 301's in the ARP, and everything started working
perfectly except for one preset (Fuzz Guitar I) and the vibrato
circuit. I identified that an additional 301 (the pulse/saw mixer)
was the probable culprit, replaced that, and then the whole thing went
dead! Dead in a new way, though, because now it doesn't even make the
one low tone.

I've traced the voltage to the following probable cause: the octave
divider chip(s).

Does anyone think that this chip could have suddenly gone bad and
caused a complete dead unit? Or would there be different symptoms?

My other thought is that my fiddling around with the boards broke loose
a wire or something.
This was really heartbreaking, because for about five minutes, I had a
fully working unit!

Please continue to help if you can--I'll be here all day! ;-)

David

Re: [oldsynths] ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-10-30 by Bob Weigel

David, were you soldering these 301's in or where they socketed? First
question that comes to mind...did you get it inbackwards or wrong somehow of
course... Not likely the divider would go bad. Are rail voltages normal at
this point? -Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Shoemaker" <dgsaa@...>
To: <oldsynths@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 12:24 PM
Subject: [oldsynths] ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2


> Hi everyone,
>
> Thanks for the help so far.
>
> I replaced several 301's in the ARP, and everything started working
> perfectly except for one preset (Fuzz Guitar I) and the vibrato
> circuit. I identified that an additional 301 (the pulse/saw mixer)
> was the probable culprit, replaced that, and then the whole thing went
> dead! Dead in a new way, though, because now it doesn't even make the
> one low tone.
>
> I've traced the voltage to the following probable cause: the octave
> divider chip(s).
>
> Does anyone think that this chip could have suddenly gone bad and
> caused a complete dead unit? Or would there be different symptoms?
>
> My other thought is that my fiddling around with the boards broke loose
> a wire or something.
> This was really heartbreaking, because for about five minutes, I had a
> fully working unit!
>
> Please continue to help if you can--I'll be here all day! ;-)
>
> David
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> oldsynths-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: [oldsynths] ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-10-31 by Ed Edelenbos

Or a broken pad (if soldering)...  or intermittent solder short...  Or a broken wire, or if socketted chips, a bent lead (it happens, believe me) which was making contact but isn't now...  Come to think of it, if there was a weak solder joint even with sockets, just removing the chips and pushing in new ones could break the joint...  

Get a magnifying glass and inspect all of the joints...

Ed

Bob Weigel wrote:
David, were you soldering these 301's in or where they socketed?  First
question that comes to mind...did you get it inbackwards or wrong somehow of
course...  Not likely the divider would go bad.  Are rail voltages normal at
this point? -Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Shoemaker" <dgsaa@...>
To: <oldsynths@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 12:24 PM
Subject: [oldsynths] ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2


> Hi everyone,
>
> Thanks for the help so far.
>
> I replaced several 301's in the ARP, and everything started working
> perfectly except for one preset (Fuzz Guitar I) and the vibrato
> circuit.   I identified that an additional 301 (the pulse/saw mixer)
> was the probable culprit, replaced that, and then the whole thing went
> dead!  Dead in a new way, though,  because now it doesn't even make the
> one low tone.
>
> I've traced the voltage to the following probable cause:  the octave
> divider chip(s).
>
> Does anyone think that this chip could have suddenly gone bad and
> caused a complete dead unit?  Or would there be different symptoms?
>
> My other thought is that my fiddling around with the boards broke loose
> a wire or something.
> This was really heartbreaking, because for about five minutes, I had a
> fully working unit!
>
> Please continue to help if you can--I'll be here all day!  ;-)
>
> David
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> oldsynths-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-10-31 by dshoemaker93

Hi Bob,

Rail voltages are normal. Old 301's were soldered in--the ones I've replaced (not
with 301's but with LF351s) were put into sockets (good machined ones).

Thanks,

David

--- In oldsynths@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weigel" <sounddoctorin@m...> wrote:

> David, were you soldering these 301's in or where they socketed? First
> question that comes to mind...did you get it inbackwards or wrong somehow of
> course... Not likely the divider would go bad. Are rail voltages normal at
> this point? -Bob

> > I replaced several 301's in the ARP, and everything started working
> > perfectly except for one preset (Fuzz Guitar I) and the vibrato
> > circuit. I identified that an additional 301 (the pulse/saw mixer)
> > was the probable culprit, replaced that, and then the whole thing went
> > dead! Dead in a new way, though, because now it doesn't even make the
> > one low tone.
> >
> > I've traced the voltage to the following probable cause: the octave
> > divider chip(s).
> >
> > Does anyone think that this chip could have suddenly gone bad and
> > caused a complete dead unit? Or would there be different symptoms?
> >
> > My other thought is that my fiddling around with the boards broke loose
> > a wire or something.
> > This was really heartbreaking, because for about five minutes, I had a
> > fully working unit!
> >
> > Please continue to help if you can--I'll be here all day! ;-)
> >
> > David
> >
> >

Re: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-11-01 by Bob Weigel

Hmm. Well if you have my 'luck'..then yes another chip working for many
years with no problem decided to play out at that very moment :-) What kind
of chip is it? I didn't understand what you meant by 'traced voltages to'
or whatever. If it's a octave divider, do you mean a top octave
synthesizer? Or just a divide by two for 'sub' type function? Arp pro
soloist...would think you mean the latter. -Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "dshoemaker93" <dgsaa@...>
To: <oldsynths@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 11:57 AM
Subject: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2


>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Rail voltages are normal. Old 301's were soldered in--the ones I've
replaced (not
> with 301's but with LF351s) were put into sockets (good machined ones).
>
> Thanks,
>
> David
>
> --- In oldsynths@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weigel" <sounddoctorin@m...> wrote:
>
> > David, were you soldering these 301's in or where they socketed? First
> > question that comes to mind...did you get it inbackwards or wrong
somehow of
> > course... Not likely the divider would go bad. Are rail voltages
normal at
> > this point? -Bob
>
> > > I replaced several 301's in the ARP, and everything started working
> > > perfectly except for one preset (Fuzz Guitar I) and the vibrato
> > > circuit. I identified that an additional 301 (the pulse/saw mixer)
> > > was the probable culprit, replaced that, and then the whole thing went
> > > dead! Dead in a new way, though, because now it doesn't even make
the
> > > one low tone.
> > >
> > > I've traced the voltage to the following probable cause: the octave
> > > divider chip(s).
> > >
> > > Does anyone think that this chip could have suddenly gone bad and
> > > caused a complete dead unit? Or would there be different symptoms?
> > >
> > > My other thought is that my fiddling around with the boards broke
loose
> > > a wire or something.
> > > This was really heartbreaking, because for about five minutes, I had a
> > > fully working unit!
> > >
> > > Please continue to help if you can--I'll be here all day! ;-)
> > >
> > > David
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> oldsynths-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>

Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-11-01 by dshoemaker93

Hi Bob,

The chip was a 7493 or 7454, I forget which at the moment.

In any case, I've rechecked all the soldering on the new chips, and replaced the chips I
mentioned, all to no avail. When I say that I "traced voltages" I mean that I followed
the CV from its source through each successive section of the circuit, making sure
that the inputs and outputs on the various chips were what they're supposed to be.

One question: What should I expect the voltage DIRECTLY out of the oscillator itself
to be? I assume it should change proportionally with the keys played, and drop
dramatically when a played key is released, correct? What would a completely dead
oscillator voltage look like? No voltage at all? Power rail voltage? Something else?

Also, on rechecking my power supply voltages, I find that I'm getting +15, +5 and
-19v, instead of the +15 +5 and -15 I got after re-capping it the other day.

Do voltages from the power supply normally fluctuate this much? If not, could this
high negative voltages explain a dead synth? Having re-capped the power supply,
does this -19 volts suggest a different component needs replacing?

Thanks for the continuing help!

David


--- In oldsynths@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weigel" <sounddoctorin@m...> wrote:
> Hmm. Well if you have my 'luck'..then yes another chip working for many
> years with no problem decided to play out at that very moment :-) What kind
> of chip is it? I didn't understand what you meant by 'traced voltages to'
> or whatever. If it's a octave divider, do you mean a top octave
> synthesizer? Or just a divide by two for 'sub' type function? Arp pro
> soloist...would think you mean the latter. -Bob
>
> ---

Re: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-11-01 by Bob Weigel

74xx series chips. These are old ttl digital. i have all of them instock
here pretty much. Their outputs of course won't be analog voltages...save
ones that are analog switches which I seem to remember these NOT being.
7493 is a flip flop of some sort as I recall and it's likely the chip you
have there for a divider.
Oscillator outputs are of course oscillating and a 'true rms' meter will
read the...true rms voltage at that point. If it's set to AC and has
enough bandwidth to analyze the frequency you are giving it. A regular
meter might read nothing depending on it's freqency response. Some of them
will only read 60hz or thereabouts. An oscilloscope is best of course for
tracing these signals BUT if you need a cheap trouble shooting tool, here's
a tip. Build a box with probe inputs (banana jacks) and put an alligator on
the ground probably so you can hook it to a chassis. Then the red banana
put a long skinny probe if you have one with a sharp end. Mueller makes
some that are ok from Parts Express or wherever. Anyway, then put a 1M
potentiometer probably in the box so you can twist it. Hook a .1uF 400V
capacitor at least (in case you ever decide to troubleshoot tube preamps
with it!) between red banana jack and the 'top' lug of the potentiometer (IE
the lug that is shorted to the center when the pot is turned all the way up.
You can see which one that would be by looking at the design of the thing.
the two outer lugs are hooked to resistive material that loops around the
inside of the pot. The wiper is the middle lug) GROUND the 'bottom' lug on
the pot. Now you can take the wiper and run it to a jack for some sensetive
earphones, OR like I did to a headphone amp. Or you can skip all that and
rig a probe harness that has a 1/4" end on it and run it straight into a
cheap guitar amp if you want the sound to annoy everyone in the area :-)
Anyway, by soing this you can actually listen to the signal at various
points in a circuit. TURN THE VOLUME all the way DOWN though before you
touch it to things or you might blow out your ears or damage other things. I
rigged mine so I can hold the little box in one hand with a finger on the
volume like a trigger.
This is a great way to trace a strange noise in a circuit, or figure
out where a signal leaves off. I usually use a scope for the latter because
I have them of course. The listening approach works and for tricky noises,
it's actually better because sometimes it's hard to figure out what you are
really seeing on a scope. But you can hear that 'signature' noise in the
headphones quite easily.
Yow, I'd double check that -19V! BE CAREFUL THOUGH! Some of those
chips may be rated for 15V...I can't recall...surely a 301 isn't rated for
more than 18V I don't think. Pretty old chip. My farfisa organ got a
couple tos chips knocked out and I had to buy retro modules for it which
were expensive...due to a bad regulator. But before you turn it on get
ready to turn the powersupply adjustment and slowly turn it to make sure you
don't go the wrong way immediately on turn on and get that set right.
Anyway, the oscillator voltages...what you get will also be determined
by how you ground reference..a.nd I don't know that board as I say. If you
have the diagram you can figure a good place to signal ground. That will
make the oscillating voltages swing above and below ground on op amps...so
if you are measuring DC with a meter of course you should get about
zero...usually 10mv or like that offset maybe. On the digital 74xx series
chips though, they run off a single 5V supply. And their outputs swing
between a tenth of a volt or like that to 4.some volts. If they are being
used to generate audio square waves, as per a 'sub' divider oscillator
function, then that signal will go through a capacitor before it hits the
input of an op amp for example so that the signal on the op amp side can be
adjusted back to average 0V instead of 2.4V or whatever.

-Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "dshoemaker93" <dgsaa@...>
To: <oldsynths@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 10:00 PM
Subject: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2


> Hi Bob,
>
> The chip was a 7493 or 7454, I forget which at the moment.
>
> In any case, I've rechecked all the soldering on the new chips, and
replaced the chips I
> mentioned, all to no avail. When I say that I "traced voltages" I mean
that I followed
> the CV from its source through each successive section of the circuit,
making sure
> that the inputs and outputs on the various chips were what they're
supposed to be.
>
> One question: What should I expect the voltage DIRECTLY out of the
oscillator itself
> to be? I assume it should change proportionally with the keys played, and
drop
> dramatically when a played key is released, correct? What would a
completely dead
> oscillator voltage look like? No voltage at all? Power rail voltage?
Something else?
>
> Also, on rechecking my power supply voltages, I find that I'm getting +15,
+5 and
> -19v, instead of the +15 +5 and -15 I got after re-capping it the other
day.
>
> Do voltages from the power supply normally fluctuate this much? If not,
could this
> high negative voltages explain a dead synth? Having re-capped the power
supply,
> does this -19 volts suggest a different component needs replacing?
>
> Thanks for the continuing help!
>
> David
>
>
> --- In oldsynths@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weigel" <sounddoctorin@m...> wrote:
> > Hmm. Well if you have my 'luck'..then yes another chip working for many
> > years with no problem decided to play out at that very moment :-) What
kind
> > of chip is it? I didn't understand what you meant by 'traced voltages
to'
> > or whatever. If it's a octave divider, do you mean a top octave
> > synthesizer? Or just a divide by two for 'sub' type function? Arp pro
> > soloist...would think you mean the latter. -Bob
> >
> > ---
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> oldsynths-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>

Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-11-01 by dshoemaker93

Hi,

Thanks for the tips, Bob. Concerning the regulator--which I'm assuming I need to
replace--I've been trying to find a modern replacement--is there a easy way to do
that? It's listed in the schematic as a Fairchild U5R 7723393, and it's an IC. I can't
find that part number at Digikey or NTE or even the Fairchild website. Any tips?

Also, the trim pot for the negative voltage only trims it down to about -18.5. Does
this mean it could be the *trimpot* that's blown and not the regulator itself?

--David


--- In oldsynths@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weigel" <sounddoctorin@m...> wrote:
> Yow, I'd double check that -19V! BE CAREFUL THOUGH! Some of those
> chips may be rated for 15V...I can't recall...surely a 301 isn't rated for
> more than 18V I don't think. Pretty old chip. My farfisa organ got a
> couple tos chips knocked out and I had to buy retro modules for it which
> were expensive...due to a bad regulator. But before you turn it on get
> ready to turn the powersupply adjustment and slowly turn it to make sure you
> don't go the wrong way immediately on turn on and get that set right.
>

Re: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-11-01 by Bob Weigel

Hmm. Not likely. It's probably the regulator. The trim pot could have
some effect in certain types of circuits even though the regulator is blown.
If you know what the voltage is supposed to be, I think you said -15V...you
could just replace with a 7915 while cutting out all related parts of that
circuit except the input capacitance and an output capacitance of at least
a.1uF to kill oscillation. Usually those circuits use a local .1cap and
then nearer the components being driven put a 10uF electrolytic or like
that. Anyway, your other regulator MAY have associated components like a
resistance and maybe a diode in a leg that goes to ground. You direct
ground the 7915. Remember it's a negative regulator so put the negative of
any cap towards it's output rather than ground!
Anyway working renditions of that number through Sam's software, I get no
cross ref. It's some oem number it sounds like. Nothing I've ever seen.
78xx and 79xx chips are rated for a little over an amp usually if they have
a great heat sink. So usually one has plenty of current capacity to feed 50
chips or like that doing 10 to 20ma each. -Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "dshoemaker93" <dgsaa@...>
To: <oldsynths@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2003 10:54 AM
Subject: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2


> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the tips, Bob. Concerning the regulator--which I'm assuming I
need to
> replace--I've been trying to find a modern replacement--is there a easy
way to do
> that? It's listed in the schematic as a Fairchild U5R 7723393, and it's
an IC. I can't
> find that part number at Digikey or NTE or even the Fairchild website.
Any tips?
>
> Also, the trim pot for the negative voltage only trims it down to
about -18.5. Does
> this mean it could be the *trimpot* that's blown and not the regulator
itself?
>
> --David
>
>
> --- In oldsynths@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weigel" <sounddoctorin@m...> wrote:
> > Yow, I'd double check that -19V! BE CAREFUL THOUGH! Some of those
> > chips may be rated for 15V...I can't recall...surely a 301 isn't rated
for
> > more than 18V I don't think. Pretty old chip. My farfisa organ got a
> > couple tos chips knocked out and I had to buy retro modules for it which
> > were expensive...due to a bad regulator. But before you turn it on get
> > ready to turn the powersupply adjustment and slowly turn it to make sure
you
> > don't go the wrong way immediately on turn on and get that set right.
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> oldsynths-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

RE: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

2003-11-01 by masada wilmot

I would be pretty sure that the regulator would be the standard 723 adjustable type. ARP used this on a lot of their synths and used the same circuit configuration. If you pull up the 723 pin-out you should be able to compare with the schematic. If only the negative rail is bad then it’s likely that the associated op-amp (probably a 301!) is what needs replacing.  

 

I would also take the opportunity to replace any tantalum polarized caps in the regulator circuit – use electrolytic types or heavily de-rated new tantalums

 

mw

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Weigel [mailto:sounddoctorin@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2003 12:35 PM
To: oldsynths@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2

 

Hmm.  Not likely.  It's probably the regulator.  The trim pot could have
some effect in certain types of circuits even though the regulator is blown.
If you know what the voltage is supposed to be, I think you said -15V...you
could just replace with a 7915 while cutting  out all related parts of that
circuit except the input capacitance and an output capacitance of at least
a.1uF to kill oscillation.  Usually those circuits use a local .1cap and
then nearer the components being driven put a 10uF electrolytic or like
that.  Anyway, your other regulator MAY have associated components like a
resistance and maybe a diode in a leg that goes to ground.  You direct
ground the 7915.  Remember it's a negative regulator so put the negative of
any cap towards it's output rather than ground!
  Anyway working renditions of that number through Sam's software, I get no
cross ref.  It's some oem number it sounds like.  Nothing I've ever seen.
78xx and 79xx chips are rated for a little over an amp usually if they have
a great heat sink.  So usually one has plenty of current capacity to feed 50
chips or like that doing 10 to 20ma each. -Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "dshoemaker93" <dgsaa@...>
To: <oldsynths@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2003 10:54 AM
Subject: [oldsynths] Re: ARP Pro Soloist problems, part 2


> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the tips, Bob.   Concerning the regulator--which I'm assuming I
need to
> replace--I've been trying to find a modern replacement--is there a easy
way to do
> that?  It's listed in the schematic as a Fairchild U5R 7723393, and it's
an IC.  I can't
> find that part number at Digikey or NTE or even the Fairchild website.
Any tips?
>
> Also, the trim pot for the negative voltage only trims it down to
about -18.5.  Does
> this mean it could be the *trimpot* that's blown and not the regulator
itself?
>
> --David
>
>
> --- In oldsynths@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weigel" <sounddoctorin@m...> wrote:
>  >     Yow, I'd double check that -19V!  BE CAREFUL THOUGH!  Some of those
> > chips may be rated for 15V...I can't recall...surely a 301 isn't rated
for
> > more than 18V I don't think.  Pretty old chip.  My farfisa organ got a
> > couple tos chips knocked out and I had to buy retro modules for it which
> > were expensive...due to a bad regulator.  But before you turn it on get
> > ready to turn the powersupply adjustment and slowly turn it to make sure
you
> > don't go the wrong way immediately on turn on and get that set right.
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> oldsynths-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>





To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
oldsynths-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.