MOTM

Made these purchases made back in 2001:

Mouser:
591-300		Panavise std base	 19.99
591-315		Panavise circ brd holdr	 29.99
591-312		Panavise tray mount	 19.99

Digikey:
1	PANAVISE WIDE HEAD	538	366PV-ND	30.99
1	PANAVISE VACUUM BASE	538	380PV-ND	31.99

George

p. hendricks wrote:
> which model?
> thanks!
> -phil
> 
> On 3/1/09 6:14 PM, "George Kisslak" <groovyshaman@...> wrote:
> 
>> After I built my 1st module the 120 back in 2001, I got a Panavise and have
>> never looked back.  I don't do the 90-degree-crimp/snip/solder.  I do the
>> 60-degree-bend/solder/snip.  Has worked perfect for me.  Can do about a
>> dozen components at a time, until leads start to interfere with each other.
>>  I also bend IC pins 60 degrees and do multiple ICs at once.  I hover with
>> the iron less that 2 secs on a polystyrene cap leads and don't do the other
>> lead until after 10 secs (rotate around).  Same technique for ICs.
>>
>> George
>>
>> Richard Brewster wrote:
>>> I've heard the term 'crimping' used to describe what I do, but I
>>> understand your meaning.  I do fold the leads 90 degrees to lie flat on
>>> the board and then cut them before soldering.  I've never found this to
>>> be a problem for desoldering.  A good quality solder wick will suck up
>>> all the solder and leave the wire easily lifted.  (Is there a good video
>>> on desoldering, I wonder?)  Then again, I've done a lot of circuit board
>>> repair, so maybe it's not as big a deal to me as to a novice.  Replacing
>>> a resistor or capacitor is isn't that difficult, especially if you have
>>> a Panavise (http://www.panaviseonline.com) for holding the board.  The
>>> alternative is to make a 45 degree bend in the leads, cut them and
>>> solder.  The drawback to this technique is that you have to do one
>>> component at a time.
>>>
<snip>