MOTM

A new year makes you consider weighty, lofty things....like what
you're going to add to your synth this year?

What are your synth plans for this year?

I've got to finish up a few projects before I can buy any more:
Blacet Miniwave - got the board and Stooge Panel
Blacet TM - got the board and panel
Milton Sequencer - got the board, need a panel

I'm really looking forward to the Fixed Filter Bank, Wavewarper, and
the Cloud Generator. Can't wait to hear more samples of these in
action!

I've got a four-day weekend, so I'm going to figure out how to slip
some  kit-building in!

1.  Any new modules that Paul ships.
2.  Tellun Labs Neural Agonizer
3.  Quad Low Pass Gate
4.  MOTM-120 and 320 mods, DB-120 and DB-320
5.  Oakley Multiladder
6.  CGS Control Voltage Cluster
7.  Matrix Mixer, probably my own design
8.  New control voltage modifier/generator I'm designing
9.  Another cabinet ;-)

John Loffink
The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
http://www.wavemakers-synth.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: elle_webb [mailto:elle_webb@...]
> 
> A new year makes you consider weighty, lofty things....like what
> you're going to add to your synth this year?
> 
> What are your synth plans for this year?
>

Wow!  There's a question!  

I've just finished a dual tube VCA/waveshaper (modified CGS starved-
plate design)and I'm still trying to design the perfect random CV 
generator.  The first design is fun but I want to limit the upper-
frequency end.  The next design will start today with two XR2206 
function generators.  This IC has FM and AM inputs and two 
simultaneous  outputs.  Simplify, simplify...

I promised a friend that I would rebuild his Fender Twin Reverb.  
It's been a while since I've worked on a 100 watter.  Finding 500 
volt caps is a pain, but everything else is readily available.  The 
worst part will be testing the beast.  Big amps are like grenades - 
just because they're loud doesn't mean you want to hear it!  This 
past November I built my own 1 watt tube amp, and my 100 watt 
Marshall Super Lead has been detuned to 15 watts (still too loud!)for 
recording.

There's a simple condenser mic design in this month's QST (amateur 
radio magazine)that looks like fun.  It'll require designing a new 
amplifier for a balance output.  Really, check this out!

Ken Stone told me that he'd never tried a starved-plate version of 
the sheet beam modulator tube waveshaper.  To me, that was kinda like 
throwing down the guantlet!  The 6JH8 is ordered...

There's so much to be done with VC precision rectification.  Makes me 
double my coffee order just thinking about it.  Anyone else?

Let's see...I've got an old Langevin passive EQ (this is truly a work 
of art!) and a pile (really-ask my wife!)of mic and line preamps from 
WISN in Milwaukee that'll make a great mic/line preamp/mixer.  I've 
been cleaning and recapping those for a bit.  There's two Heathkit 
tube preamps that need refurbishing.  I've got five of these little 
mic/phono preamps that GE made in the '50's when magnetic phono 
cartridges became popular.  Two LC phono EQ's-one Pickering and one 
Astatic, both NOS in the boxes from the '40's-early'50's- that should 
have a home just because they're cool.

MOTM brothers and sisters, it is not my intent to try to out-do 
others on this list.  Given the likes of JH, Paul, Old Crow, and MANY 
others, my list surely pales in comparision to what they've planned!  
I want to make it clear that my work is available for others to 
scrutinize, rehash, copy, or just futz with.  Experimentation is 
GREAT and it should be SHARED FREELY so the most popular designs 
evolve into useful devices for many.  Hopefully, this entry will spur 
even one person into playing with a breadboard and a pile of parts.

Also, do not hesitate to ASK FOR PARTS, HELP, IDEAS, or just 
encouragement.  As we all witnessed, the knowledge base of this group 
is enormous.  If something isn't clear to me (e.g.-my little power 
supply snafu), I'll ask this list rather than waste time looking in 
the wrong directions.  

Now let's get crackin'!

Chub

ps- really, ask for parts.  You should see this mess.

1. Anything from Paul S.
2. 2 Neural Agonizers from Scott - Everything's built, but I still 
need panels.
3. 2 Binary Zones - Partially Complete
4. 8 Catgirl Modules - Just got the PCBs from Ken
5. My own designs:
     Quad Output Module
     Tuner and Level Indicator
     Freq. Multiplier
     Major 800 Mod
     Possibly a through zero VCO
6. New Cabinets
7. Finally get my website operating (a work in progress) lots of 
stuff about my studio, my music and a very comprehensive MOTM 
section with lots of mods.

I also hope to set up my laptop with some softsynths.  Mostly for 
entertainment during the 6 to 8 weeks a year I spend on business 
travel.

And I hope to learn how to program PICs.

Thats just for starters - I like having a full plate!

elle_webb wrote:

>What are your synth plans for this year?
>
>  
>
What with the upcoming Stooge panel order, I've been doing a bit of 
planning ahead.  I was supposed to - ahem - "finish" my synth by filling 
up my second dot com 26U cabinet.  You know what happened: "just one 
more module" and now I need another cabinet.  My plans are:

Finish dual Oakley Little LFO/Little EGs in Schaeffer panel (2 of each 
module in 2U total).
MOTM 700
MOTM 510 Wavewarper.

That will be one module over the existing cabinet space.  (I can't 
decide if the 'extra' module was the LFOs/EGs or the 700.  Needless to 
say I had to have them both!)  Next up:

Blacet Time Machine
Cynthia Quad Low Pass Gates
Second Oakley Multimix
Second Oakley Equinox

Dual CGS Burst Generator
Dual CGS Synthacon VCF
Dual CGS VCO
CGS Wave Multiplier

Some of these will go into Stooge panels, others into Schaeffer panels.  
If I get a third dot com cabinet, MOTM-ized with Stooge flat rails, then 
after all these modules are finished there will still be 10U of space 
left.  It is possible, but not too likely that the new cabinet will get 
completely filled up in 2004.  One thing I have found is that it's hard 
to get "finished" with a synthesizer.  I started out to build *one* 26U 
cabinet!  Lucky me, I have a tolerant spouse.

I want to thank everyone on this list for all the help.  I've learned a 
lot in the past year and a half here.

-Richard Brewster

>What are your synth plans for this year?

0. Quit the day job so I can spend more time building synths !
1. Build whatever new stuff Paul S. can ship out.
2. Finish building all those modules sitting under the workbench 
(MOTM-300, MOTM-830, TLN-156, TLN-132).
3. Add the PROM expander and VC-PROM daughterboards to MiniWaves.
4. Finish new designs: dual level meter, vulcan doppelganger, dr. octopus.
5. Get the website updated (new cabinets, new modules, new sounds).
6. Start on that PDA based patch notator?

I want to build in 2004:

  1) MOTM-880 prototype (well, complete it is the correct term ;)

  2) A discrete equivalent of the Yamaha IG00153+IG00158 CS VCO

  3) A hundred new KLM-367 boards for the chronically ailing Korg Polysix
repair requests I get.

  4) other stuff

Crow
/**/

>   I want to build in 2004:
>
>   1) MOTM-880 prototype (well, complete it is the correct term ;)

I was wondering about the status of this beast (hadn't heard a peep 
about it in a while). Good to hear it's still forthcoming.

What was the 880? 

John Loffink
The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
http://www.wavemakers-synth.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: The Old Crow [mailto:oldcrow@...]


>   I want to build in 2004:
> 
>   1) MOTM-880 prototype (well, complete it is the correct term ;)
>

>What was the 880?

Here is a snippet that I saved when the 880 was first discussed on 
the list (not written by me):

>Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 23:13:31 -0500 (EST)
>From: The Old Crow <oldcrow@...>
>
>   Any MOTM module number ending in 80 represents my work in trying to
>recreate Yamaha IG-series custom chip-based functional blocks in
>standard-component form.  The 480 is the filter, the 880 is the
>voltage-controlled filter envelope generator with slight modifications to
>create a more pleasing module (such as adjustable sustain level instead of
>the CS EG sustain fixed at zero).  The envelope has adjustable initial
>level and attack peak level in addition to the standard attack time, decay
>time, sustain level and release level. One more knob that is not derived
>from the CS EG is a 'shape' control that allows one to adjust the
>curvature of the slope during attack, decay and release portions of the
>envelope cycle.  Finally, there are a manual gate switch, dual-mode LED
>and 'end of cycle' output trigger jack to cascade to other EGs or whatnot.
>All seven knobs have corresponding CV jacks (even the shape knob).  Oddly
>enough, it all fits on a 2U panel.  Oh, this is a *bipolar* envelope
>generator.  The envelope can start below zero, sustain below zero, and end
>below zero, just like the CS filter EG.
>
>   Beware: this is not a cheap module.  Probably $199/kit.  It will kick
>amazing butt though, when all is said and done.

What's the pin out for the new 6 pin power connector? I don't have my 
990 board yet but I want to start using it anyway (I know that 
doesn't make sense).

The 4 pin power connector has this pin out:

pin 1 = +15
pin 2 = GND
pin 3 = GND
pin 4 = -15

where pin 1 is the right-most pin when viewing the power connector 
top down with the locking tab at the top:

-----------
locking tab
-----------
   4 3 2 1
-----------

What's the pin out for the new 6 pin power connector?

Thanks.  Has anyone else noticed that Yahoo has made the archives unbearably
slow to search?  The searches are now broken into chunks of 300-500
messages.  With MOTM at 21000+ messages, that's a lot of searching.

John Loffink
The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
http://www.wavemakers-synth.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Juskiw [mailto:scott@...]
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 2:47 PM
> To: John Loffink; motm@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [motm] What are you going to build in 2004?
> 
> >What was the 880?
> 
> Here is a snippet that I saved when the 880 was first discussed on
> the list (not written by me):
>

I'm building my first 2 modules EG and uVCF. I ordered the Oakley State
Variable Filter and parts from Mouser, these are my first modules. I'm
gonna order 2 motm 300 VCO's and a Multi soon and the Oakley Wavefolder
hopefully though I need to scrounge more studio cash for the oakley. I
also bought a uVCA and another EG used already built I haven't received
yet, so I'm on my way to a small modular in 2004. I have a SCI Pro One,
Roland SH-2 and Moog (Realistic) MG-1 that I'll use as oscillator
sources for now.

Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for modules
till they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley SVF module
and I don't want to wait to use it. I was thinking about using heavy
cardboard or wood and gluing a printout of the frontpanel design onto
the front, just as an ugly solution so the module is usable till I get a
stooge panel. Any other ideas for a temp solution?

Happy new year...

- Michael nil-x

elle_webb wrote:

>  A new year makes you consider weighty, lofty things....like what
> you're going to add to your synth this year?
>
> What are your synth plans for this year?
>
> I've got to finish up a few projects before I can buy any more:
> Blacet Miniwave - got the board and Stooge Panel
> Blacet TM - got the board and panel
> Milton Sequencer - got the board, need a panel
>
> I'm really looking forward to the Fixed Filter Bank, Wavewarper, and
> the Cloud Generator. Can't wait to hear more samples of these in
> action!
>
> I've got a four-day weekend, so I'm going to figure out how to slip
> some  kit-building in!
>
>
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>    * To visit your group on the web, go to:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/motm/
>
>    * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>      motm-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>    * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>      Service.
>

I believe 2004 will be the "Year of the Cabinet".

Cheers,
G3org3 Kisslak

I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a 
plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use 
these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels, 
works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape 
them on for marking the jacks and pots.

Several pictures can be found here:

http://www.tellun.com/motm/diy/tln156/TLN-156p.html
http://www.tellun.com/motm/diy/tln132/TLN-132.html
http://www.tellun.com/motm/diy/tln428/TLN-428.html
http://www.tellun.com/motm/diy/tln428/TLN-442.html

>Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for 
>modules till they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley 
>SVF module and I don't want to wait to use it. I was thinking about 
>using heavy cardboard or wood and gluing a printout of the 
>frontpanel design onto the front, just as an ugly solution so the 
>module is usable till I get a stooge panel. Any other ideas for a 
>temp solution?

I want to build in 2004:

(1) A house for my family

(2) A "String Filter" with 40 resonant peaks

JH.

That's a great idea to use plexiglass.  I have not worked with it.  What 
kinds of saw work well on plexiglass?  I don't have a table saw.  Would 
a Dremel tool work?

-Richard Brewster

Scott Juskiw wrote:

>I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a 
>plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use 
>these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels, 
>works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape 
>them on for marking the jacks and pots.
>  
>
>>Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for 
>>modules till they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley 
>>SVF module and I don't want to wait to use it. I was thinking about 
>>using heavy cardboard or wood and gluing a printout of the 
>>frontpanel design onto the front, just as an ugly solution so the 
>>module is usable till I get a stooge panel. Any other ideas for a 
>>temp solution?
>>    
>>

Plexiglas panels sound very interesting.  I would think it would be best
to work the material slowly, probably depends on the type of material.
Maybe the harder plastics such as polycarbonate would work better at
higher speeds?  I'm curious what others' experiences have shown.

Cheers,
George Kisslak

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Brewster" <pugix@...>
To: "Scott Juskiw" <scott@...>
Cc: <nil@...>; <motm@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: [motm] What are you going to build in 2004?


> That's a great idea to use plexiglass.  I have not worked with it.  What
> kinds of saw work well on plexiglass?  I don't have a table saw.  Would
> a Dremel tool work?
>
> -Richard Brewster
>
> Scott Juskiw wrote:
>
> >I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a
> >plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use
> >these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels,
> >works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape
> >them on for marking the jacks and pots.
> >
> >
> >>Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for
> >>modules till they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley
> >>SVF module and I don't want to wait to use it. I was thinking about
> >>using heavy cardboard or wood and gluing a printout of the
> >>frontpanel design onto the front, just as an ugly solution so the
> >>module is usable till I get a stooge panel. Any other ideas for a
> >>temp solution?

Yeah these are my thought's exactly, excellent idea, what is the best
way to cut plexiglass. I assume drilling is simple. What method do you
use for cutting the plexiglass?

thanks,
- Michael nil-x

Richard Brewster wrote:

>  That's a great idea to use plexiglass.  I have not worked with it.
> What
> kinds of saw work well on plexiglass?  I don't have a table saw.
> Would
> a Dremel tool work?
>
> -Richard Brewster
>
> Scott Juskiw wrote:
>
> >I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a
> >plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use
> >these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels,
> >works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape
> >them on for marking the jacks and pots.

At 8:48 PM -0500 2004/01/01, Richard Brewster wrote:
>That's a great idea to use plexiglass.  I have not worked with it. 
>What kinds of saw work well on plexiglass?  I don't have a table 
>saw.  Would a Dremel tool work?

I'm not sure about a Dremel, I haven't tried one. I use a table saw 
with a very fine tooth blade. The blade says "for plastics and 
veneers" on it. Just don't cut too fast and wear a face mask 
otherwise you'll get tiny pieces of plastic in your eyes, nose, ears, 
everywhere. One time I got a piece of plastic that had a fairly low 
melting point and that was not good; it would melt while I tried to 
drill holes through it.

I use a drill press for cutting the holes, same one I use for cutting 
holes in Stooge panels. Drill slowly otherwise the blade can grab a 
hold of the plastic and tear a chunk off. That's happened to me a 
couple of times while trying to cut the panel mounting holes near the 
edges. The piece that breaks off will try it's best to lodge itself 
into your flesh. Strange but true.

I use an unbuilt MOTM panel to mark most of the holes for drilling. 
Put the MOTM panel on the plastic and use a sharpie to outline the 
holes. You don't even need to center punch the holes for drilling.

>Plexiglas panels sound very interesting.  I would think it would be best
>to work the material slowly, probably depends on the type of material.
>Maybe the harder plastics such as polycarbonate would work better at
>higher speeds?  I'm curious what others' experiences have shown.

I don't know the details of the type of plastic I'm using, it was 
just a piece of scrap I picked up many years ago. I just know that 
you have to use a fine tooth blade, cut slowly, drill slowly, use an 
MOTM panel to mark the holes. That's about it.

At 7:14 PM -0700 2004/01/01, Scott Juskiw wrote:
>I'm not sure about a Dremel, I haven't tried one. I use a table saw
>with a very fine tooth blade.

I just remembered that a jigsaw also works for cutting plastic. I 
used to do it that way before I got my table saw. It's harder to cut 
a straight line with a jigsaw. But at least a jigsaw doesn't take up 
a lot of room, isn't too loud, and doesn't throw all the plastic bits 
back into your face. If you go the jigsaw route, I recommend a fairly 
wide blade to help make the edges as straight as possible. It's too 
easy to accidentally cut a curve with narrow blades. Get a blade 
that's got lots of fine teeth in it and make sure it isn't one of 
those blades with the teeth pointing downwards.

>> I'm not sure about a Dremel, I haven't tried one. I use a table saw
>> with a very fine tooth blade.
> 
> I just remembered that a jigsaw also works for cutting plastic.

I thought that one could cut plexiglass--at least the thinner stuff--by
scoring it with something sharp, and then snapping it against a straight
edge like a metal yardstick or a table edge. Can't say that I've tried it,
though.

--Adam

>I thought that one could cut plexiglass--at least the thinner stuff--by
>scoring it with something sharp, and then snapping it against a straight
>edge like a metal yardstick or a table edge. Can't say that I've tried it,
>though.

That would probably work for 1/16" and thinner. The stuff I'm using 
is 1/8", I don't think I would be able to snap that without injuring 
myself.

On Thursday 01 January 2004 21:46, Scott Juskiw wrote:
> >What was the 880?
>
> Here is a snippet that I saved when the 880 was first
> discussed on

<SNIP>

Cool! I certainly will get one.

- Robert

On 1/1/04, groovyshaman@... put forth:
>Plexiglas panels sound very interesting.  I would think it would be best
>to work the material slowly, probably depends on the type of material.
>Maybe the harder plastics such as polycarbonate would work better at
>higher speeds?  I'm curious what others' experiences have shown.

You can also buy sheets of ABS.  It's affordable, widely available in 
black in numerous thicknesses, and even comes in different textures. 
I've used it on customized dashboards.  It cuts with a dremel, cutoff 
wheel, or handsaw, and is much less goopy than vinyl (which tends to 
melt when you cut it).  Although plexiglas would be better if you are 
going for that Gleeman look :)

Synth plans for 2004:

I got an early start, my big freelance job for the year ended in mid 
Dec. So I finally built the 490 uVCF, 390 uLFO and 380 Quad LFO kits 
that have been sitting around for more than a year, let me tell you, 
2003 was an insanely busy year for me. But I'm really digging these 
modules, and generally diggin the chance to finally spend some 
quality time with the modular.

Next plans:
Finish the Seventh Circle N72 Neve-clone preamp kits I started last summer.

I have room for 3 more Blacet modules in my 2nd frac rack, and I'm 
debating what to put in them. With the Wiseguy 1/8" cables and a 
bunch or radio shack 1/8" to 1/4 adaptors, the Blacet modules play 
really nicely with the MOTM. And by the way, to any other 1/8" 
modular users out there, the Stooge Larry's Wiseguy cables are, to 
use rapidly dating hip-hop parlance, the bomb.

I'm feeling like my MOTM has enough filters to last a lifetime, but I 
feel like I'm really lacking VCA's and CV sources/modulators. So I 
think a couple of uVCA's are in my future, and I'm thinking of 
homebrewing some sample and hold modules. One of the things (about 
the only thing) I miss about my Doepfer system was that it had a 
whole bunch of S/H modules in a really little space, and I got much 
use out of them.

And, of course, whatever else Paul thinks up for 2004...

> What are your synth plans for this year?

Make more music with the synths that I already have.
 
Oh, that was a boring answer, wasn't it? :-)

Okay, here are my building plans:

-wire the second cabinet (which sits on top of the first cabinet)
-Expressionist breakout panel, unless I decide to sell the Expressionist
-Oakley S&H with Stooge Panel (almost done!)
-Oakley Equinoxe with Stooge Panel
-Blacet Time Machine and Quad VCA, with either Stooge or Schaeffer panels
-maybe some little voltage-processing modules of my own design (rectifiers,
inverters, stuff like that)
-maybe some sort of gate sequencer of my own design, similar to the CGS
model
-hopefully a MOTM filter bank

Also, my website is really, really overdue for an update, so I guess that's
on the list, too.

--Adam

----- Original Message -----

From: Michael -nil-x
Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for modules till
they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley SVF module and I don't
want to wait to use it. I was thinking about using heavy cardboard or wood
and gluing a printout of the frontpanel design onto the front, just as an
ugly solution so the module is usable till I get a stooge panel. Any other
ideas for a temp solution?


Here is a solution many have used (another Stooge solution of course).  When
I order metal, I can order extra blank metal.  I can sell these in any
quantity cheap.  the expensive part is the paint and the screening.  I can
sell actualy MOTM units in 1U, 2U, and 3U with all 4 corner holes in place
for $3, $4, and $5 respectively.  Stock up on a few for prototypes and
temporary panels.  I can mect celivery these around the first week in March.
anyuone interested can add those to their Stooge panel order coming up later
this month.

Larry

- MOTM 460 & 480 and 450 filters, I hope
- All the MOTM 500 and 600 stuff I have on order, I hope
- 4 new "wing" cabinets my synth will have a total cabinet count of 7)
- some kind of home brew analong sequencer.
- tube distortion (NOT whimpy plate starving method)
- Update all my 800s 320s and 120 (got the PCBs built)
- Experiment with more Ken Stone stuff.
- expand 2 of my Miniwaves to 10 proms
- finish all my old Oakley stuff
- something Blacet I'm sure. :)
- face lift for web site - I just got Dreamweaver for Christmas.

Larry H

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "J. Larry Hendry" <jlarryh@i...> wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael -nil-x
> Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for
modules till
> they get their stooge panels? 

I used a piece of stiff cardboard for a couple of Scott Juskiw's cool
designs. THE PANELS REALLY SUCKED! Drilling cardboard just doesn't
work - and little bits of cardboard kept on rubbing off everytime I
used it. A DIY embarassment!

I've also found that it's really tough to figure out the panels for
total DIY projects until you can try them out in action. 

It would be nice to have 1u and 2u panels that have the max number of
holes drilled out, but just little white boxes where the labels should
be. Then we could use a dry erase marker to label them, and make temp
panels that we wouldn't be embarassed by.

Could be a Stooge opportunity. Any interest?

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: elle_webb <elle_webb@...>
> I used a piece of stiff cardboard for a couple of Scott Juskiw's cool
designs. THE PANELS REALLY SUCKED! Drilling cardboard just doesn't work -
and little bits of cardboard kept on rubbing off everytime I used it. A DIY
embarassment!

LH:  I gotta say, I can really see how that woudl totally suck. :) nyck,
nuck

> It would be nice to have 1u and 2u panels that have the max number of
holes drilled out, but just little white boxes where the labels should be.
Then we could use a dry erase marker to label them, and make temp panels
that we wouldn't be embarassed by.  Could be a Stooge opportunity. Any
interest?

LH:  When I first saw this, I thought, NFW (like the Norfork & Way Pal
railroad).  But, I will offer up whaT I think are some decent thoughts for
ways to do non-embarassing DIY temporary panels.  Now, what is non
embarassing no one person may not be to the next, so try to be open minded:

The king of non-embarassing temporary panels (IMHO anyhow) is paper printed
with your ink jet or laser printer, glued to the panel and covered with
spattered clear satin laquer. See here:
http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/misc/blacet_freq_divide.jpg

I've had people actually touch these and not realize they are not the real
thing.  Props to Ken Tkacs (who is WAY too quiet on this list these days
BTW) for showing me how to do this:

Then, when I did the prototype for the 850, I used my $35 casio label
printer.  Sucks for permanent.  But for temporary, the vaccum level is
something below watermelon through a garden hose.
http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/misc/850-proto-face.jpg

I have heard, but not seen, that the EFM kits (repeat 3 times after me, "I
am NOT recommending EFM kits") come with "stickers" which were printed out
on some kind of self adhesive paper with the home printer.  That seems way
cool to me for temporary home panels.

To me, all temporary panels will "suck less" if they do not come drilled
with every possible hole. :)

OK, that's my $.02 on the subject.  Now, can there be something out of
Stooge products to help.  Sure!  come to some reasonable consensus and we
will do these best we can.

Larry

Avery Labels makes laser and inkjet printable stickers (intended for mailing
labels) including full letter-size pages that are not divided into smaller
labels. I print onto one of these, and stick the sticker to one of Larry's
unpainted blanks (which he advertized previously). Although I haven't done
the lacquer texture, from more than a few feet away you can't really tell
them from the Stooge and MOTM panels around them. If you get close you
notice the texture's different, and the panel is not especially durable, but
I intend to try the lacquer thing sometime which I think will improve them.

			...Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: J. Larry Hendry [mailto:jlarryh@...] 
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:14 PM
To: elle_webb; MOTM List
Subject: Re: [motm] Re: Temp panel - Stooge opportunity?

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: elle_webb <elle_webb@...> I used a piece of stiff 
> cardboard for a couple of Scott Juskiw's cool
designs. THE PANELS REALLY SUCKED! Drilling cardboard just doesn't work -
and little bits of cardboard kept on rubbing off everytime I used it. A DIY
embarassment!

LH:  I gotta say, I can really see how that woudl totally suck. :) nyck,
nuck

> It would be nice to have 1u and 2u panels that have the max number of
holes drilled out, but just little white boxes where the labels should be.
Then we could use a dry erase marker to label them, and make temp panels
that we wouldn't be embarassed by.  Could be a Stooge opportunity. Any
interest?

LH:  When I first saw this, I thought, NFW (like the Norfork & Way Pal
railroad).  But, I will offer up whaT I think are some decent thoughts for
ways to do non-embarassing DIY temporary panels.  Now, what is non
embarassing no one person may not be to the next, so try to be open minded:

The king of non-embarassing temporary panels (IMHO anyhow) is paper printed
with your ink jet or laser printer, glued to the panel and covered with
spattered clear satin laquer. See here:
http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/misc/blacet_freq_divide.jpg

I've had people actually touch these and not realize they are not the real
thing.  Props to Ken Tkacs (who is WAY too quiet on this list these days
BTW) for showing me how to do this:

Then, when I did the prototype for the 850, I used my $35 casio label
printer.  Sucks for permanent.  But for temporary, the vaccum level is
something below watermelon through a garden hose.
http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/misc/850-proto-face.jpg

I have heard, but not seen, that the EFM kits (repeat 3 times after me, "I
am NOT recommending EFM kits") come with "stickers" which were printed out
on some kind of self adhesive paper with the home printer.  That seems way
cool to me for temporary home panels.

To me, all temporary panels will "suck less" if they do not come drilled
with every possible hole. :)

OK, that's my $.02 on the subject.  Now, can there be something out of
Stooge products to help.  Sure!  come to some reasonable consensus and we
will do these best we can.

Larry


 

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 http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Cutting acrylic is best done with a carbide tipped blade on a circular 
saw, when working with large sheets. A ten inch blade with 80 teeth is 
about right. There are special designs for this (beveling and 
clearance), so checking with a plastics supplier could help get you 
pointed in the right direction. Smaller pieces may be cut quite well 
with a band saw. Again, use fine teeth 14+ per inch. The key to acrylic 
success with this tool is to feed slooooowly. Warning, table saws and 
band saws are not for the careless!

I do not think a jigsaw/skill saw would be a good choice. Too much 
chatter. Any small "catch" in the cut can cause a starting place for a 
future crack. Perhaps not so bad for a synth, but brutal for a fish tank.

Scott
---------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Brewster wrote:

> That's a great idea to use plexiglass.  I have not worked with it.  What 
> kinds of saw work well on plexiglass?  I don't have a table saw.  Would 
> a Dremel tool work?
> 
> -Richard Brewster
> 
> Scott Juskiw wrote:
> 
> 
>>I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a 
>>plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use 
>>these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels, 
>>works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape 
>>them on for marking the jacks and pots.
>> 
>>
>>
>>>Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for 
>>>modules till they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley 
>>>SVF module and I don't want to wait to use it. I was thinking about 
>>>using heavy cardboard or wood and gluing a printout of the 
>>>frontpanel design onto the front, just as an ugly solution so the 
>>>module is usable till I get a stooge panel. Any other ideas for a 
>>>temp solution?
>>>   
>>>
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/motm/
> 
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  motm-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
>

It is best to make your markings for the drill on the masking that 
protects the surface of the sheet and drill through the backing. Drills 
designed for steel can be dull as suggested by another poster, but 
generally won't work for drilling acrylic. The real problem here is that 
the grind is different for a plexiglass drill bit. The material will 
still tend to "ride up" the bit used for steel and crack the acrylic. 
Slow feed of the press is also important. This will help prevent the 
chatter of starting the drill into the hole. Leave the protective 
masking on until you must remove it.

Scott

Michael -nil-x wrote:

> Yeah these are my thought's exactly, excellent idea, what is the best 
> way to cut plexiglass. I assume drilling is simple. What method do you 
> use for cutting the plexiglass?
> 
> thanks,
> - Michael nil-x
> 
> Richard Brewster wrote:
> 
>>  That's a great idea to use plexiglass.  I have not worked with it.  What
>> kinds of saw work well on plexiglass?  I don't have a table saw.  Would
>> a Dremel tool work?
>>
>> -Richard Brewster
>>
>> Scott Juskiw wrote:
>>
>> >I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a
>> >plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use
>> >these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels,
>> >works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape
>> >them on for marking the jacks and pots.
>>
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *Yahoo! Groups Links*
> 
>     * To visit your group on the web, go to:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/motm/
>        
>     * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>       <mailto:motm-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>        
>     * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>       Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>. 
> 
>

Brother label makers (and maybe others) also make a white lettered label on
clear tape.  This looks okay from a distance for panels, but won't fool
anyone up close. 

These label makers have pretty much replaced the rub-on type that used to be
available in endless varieties 20 years ago.  Let me tell you, it is a lot
quicker too.  I still remember painstakingly lining up each individual
letter as I rubbed it onto the panel, then gave the panel several coats of
clear acrylic for durability.

John Loffink
The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
http://www.wavemakers-synth.com


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Craig Critchley [mailto:craigc@...]
?

> 
> Avery Labels makes laser and inkjet printable stickers (intended for
> mailing
> labels) including full letter-size pages that are not divided into smaller
> labels. I print onto one of these, and stick the sticker to one of Larry's
> unpainted blanks (which he advertized previously). Although I haven't done
> the lacquer texture, from more than a few feet away you can't really tell
> them from the Stooge and MOTM panels around them. If you get close you
> notice the texture's different, and the panel is not especially durable,
> but
> I intend to try the lacquer thing sometime which I think will improve
> them.
> 
> 			...Craig

No doubt this does make a huge difference.  Before using the acrylic, use a
sharpie to color in any trimmed paper edges so no white shows.  I have 2
tips on acrylic

1 - I tried several.  The one that worked best for me was Lowes own brand
"One & Only by Valspar Clear Acrylic Satin"
2 - (I learned this from Ken Tkacs) put the panel on the floor and spray
from 3 feet above so the stuff is 1/2 dry when it hits.  Stop and start the
nozzle in bursts to intentionally create spurts and splatters (like they
tell you not to do on spray paint cans).  Apply several very light coats
instead of one or two heavy ones. This helps create that "texture" feel and
appearance.

----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Critchley <craigc@...>
I intend to try the lacquer thing sometime which I think will improve them.

hello all,

i was going to say i'm going to finish my MOTMised paia vocoder, but i did
that last night (expect some jpegs soon larry)
so otherwise, some modular new years's resolutions:

1) more motm modules if at all possible - i might go for the 'big push' and
get my final set of motm core stuff (vcos, vcas, adsrs)

2) maybe i ought to spend less time building ken stone's modules (this is
turning into an addiction within an addiction) and more time patching &
playing

3) the 'grand calibration' of VCOs is getting hard to avoid

4) i'm going to make a damn good attempt to get a modular 'manual' online -
i'm close...

5) curry is almost ready - so i'm off...

6) cheers paul b

7) sheffield

8) uk

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "elle_webb" <elle_webb@h...> wrote:
> A new year makes you consider weighty, lofty things....like what
> you're going to add to your synth this year?

A plank'o'wood with some metal strings attached, lengthwise!  And some
other stuff, below...
 
> What are your synth plans for this year?

Well, I had a 190 and 890 sitting in boxes, unpacked, for MONTHs. 
Finished the 890 over the weekend, and the 190 last night.  So I'm off
to a good start.  I started building a Klangwerk last night, and
there's a Time Machine which needs completion someplace in the dusty
boxes in the studio / storage area.  I need to get on the horn with
Mouser / Digikey and order up some parts to kit them to MOTM front
panels for the afore-mentioned and a Miniwave.  If I don't chicken out
of this process, and they're still available, I'd like to order up
another Time Machine.

Given all that, I sure could use another 6 or 7 850s and complimentary
pedals.  And a nice, big, honkin' box to shove them all in.
 
> I've got to finish up a few projects before I can buy any more:

Oh, projects, yes!  I've discovered the wild, wild, wild world of tube
amps.  I have two old Ampegs in need of repair-- a completely dead
Reverberocket, and a shocking Gemini 15-22.  After that, I'd like to
build a P1-- a ~5-8W single-ended class-A tube amp highly tuned for
power amp distortion, see http://www.ax84.com-- from scratch.  Ooh,
the lofty goals!

And the apartment is being, er, redecorated... but that's GOOD!  I get
practically a whole bedroom / loft all to myself.  As it stands, I
need to hop over several boxes and work in a dimly lit, dusty
quasi-storage area, or work in a 1'x2' desktop area in from of the
computer monitor.  But that's my own damned fault for not taking care
of business and keeping the studio in good shape.  If I'm a very good
boy, this move will greatly facilitate in building, repairing, and
general noise-making.  My wife will rue the day.  Mwah-hah-etc.

Of course, I don't just get to suddenly HAVE the old bedroom.  We're
repainting a wall, cleaning out the old studio, insolating it,
lighting it, and moving the bedroom in there.  Then, the studio goes
upstairs, to the old bedroom.  And we need a bunch of new furtinure--
the glass-topped coffeetable is threatening concrete-floored-suicide
on a daily basis now.

Oops, can't forget to install the garbage disposal and get my wife's
engagement ring repaired.  And... oh, wait, we were talking about
synths, weren't we...?
 
> I'm really looking forward to the Fixed Filter Bank, Wavewarper, and
> the Cloud Generator. Can't wait to hear more samples of these in
> action!

I'm super-mega-mega-stoked about the 510 and the Encore Electronics
Freq. Shifter.  I would LOVE to hear progress on the triple-preamp,
but I'm going to try to design MOTM-signal-compatibility into the
amps.  At this point, the MOTM will primarily serve as the glue
holding everything together:

The ultimate goal is to play with a guitar into a tube amp head
preamp, effects routed into the MOTM/Blacet/Encore beastie, back to
the head for power-amp, out to a 2x12 or 4x12, all controlled via a
gigantor pedalboard or switches and pedals.

Oh yea, and I should learn to play guitar, too.  Lest all this come
out a REALLY FRICKIN' UGLY.

BTW, this is Paul B., formerly posting as noise@....  I was laid
off back in... October, and promptly went to England for a 2 week
vacation.  Luckily, I managed to find another job BEFORE leaving, and
have been happily employed since returning from vacation.  Damn, but
what are the chances of THAT happening in the software industry?  I'm
pretty much the luckiest sod this side of... anywhere.  I'm starting
to get back to the MOTM group, but I'll likely jump emails again
before long.

Thanks for listening to the ramble, and greetings to all!

Heh, I had to read this post twice.  For a minute I could swear it was
from Roger Rossen.  :^)  Just kidding Rog!

Welcome back to MOTM and the working-wounded Paul.

George Kisslak - recent software rehire
----- Original Message -----

From: "object88" <object88@...>
To: <motm@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 4:17 PM
Subject: [motm] Re: What are you going to build in 2004?


> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "elle_webb" <elle_webb@h...> wrote:
> > A new year makes you consider weighty, lofty things....like what
> > you're going to add to your synth this year?
>
> A plank'o'wood with some metal strings attached, lengthwise!  And some
> other stuff, below...
>
> > What are your synth plans for this year?
>
> Well, I had a 190 and 890 sitting in boxes, unpacked, for MONTHs.
> Finished the 890 over the weekend, and the 190 last night.  So I'm off
> to a good start.  I started building a Klangwerk last night, and
> there's a Time Machine which needs completion someplace in the dusty
> boxes in the studio / storage area.  I need to get on the horn with
> Mouser / Digikey and order up some parts to kit them to MOTM front
> panels for the afore-mentioned and a Miniwave.  If I don't chicken out
> of this process, and they're still available, I'd like to order up
> another Time Machine.
>
> Given all that, I sure could use another 6 or 7 850s and complimentary
> pedals.  And a nice, big, honkin' box to shove them all in.
>
> > I've got to finish up a few projects before I can buy any more:
>
> Oh, projects, yes!  I've discovered the wild, wild, wild world of tube
> amps.  I have two old Ampegs in need of repair-- a completely dead
> Reverberocket, and a shocking Gemini 15-22.  After that, I'd like to
> build a P1-- a ~5-8W single-ended class-A tube amp highly tuned for
> power amp distortion, see http://www.ax84.com-- from scratch.  Ooh,
> the lofty goals!
>
> And the apartment is being, er, redecorated... but that's GOOD!  I get
> practically a whole bedroom / loft all to myself.  As it stands, I
> need to hop over several boxes and work in a dimly lit, dusty
> quasi-storage area, or work in a 1'x2' desktop area in from of the
> computer monitor.  But that's my own damned fault for not taking care
> of business and keeping the studio in good shape.  If I'm a very good
> boy, this move will greatly facilitate in building, repairing, and
> general noise-making.  My wife will rue the day.  Mwah-hah-etc.
>
> Of course, I don't just get to suddenly HAVE the old bedroom.  We're
> repainting a wall, cleaning out the old studio, insolating it,
> lighting it, and moving the bedroom in there.  Then, the studio goes
> upstairs, to the old bedroom.  And we need a bunch of new furtinure--
> the glass-topped coffeetable is threatening concrete-floored-suicide
> on a daily basis now.
>
> Oops, can't forget to install the garbage disposal and get my wife's
> engagement ring repaired.  And... oh, wait, we were talking about
> synths, weren't we...?
>
> > I'm really looking forward to the Fixed Filter Bank, Wavewarper, and
> > the Cloud Generator. Can't wait to hear more samples of these in
> > action!
>
> I'm super-mega-mega-stoked about the 510 and the Encore Electronics
> Freq. Shifter.  I would LOVE to hear progress on the triple-preamp,
> but I'm going to try to design MOTM-signal-compatibility into the
> amps.  At this point, the MOTM will primarily serve as the glue
> holding everything together:
>
> The ultimate goal is to play with a guitar into a tube amp head
> preamp, effects routed into the MOTM/Blacet/Encore beastie, back to
> the head for power-amp, out to a 2x12 or 4x12, all controlled via a
> gigantor pedalboard or switches and pedals.
>
> Oh yea, and I should learn to play guitar, too.  Lest all this come
> out a REALLY FRICKIN' UGLY.
>
> BTW, this is Paul B., formerly posting as noise@....  I was laid
> off back in... October, and promptly went to England for a 2 week
> vacation.  Luckily, I managed to find another job BEFORE leaving, and
> have been happily employed since returning from vacation.  Damn, but
> what are the chances of THAT happening in the software industry?  I'm
> pretty much the luckiest sod this side of... anywhere.  I'm starting
> to get back to the MOTM group, but I'll likely jump emails again
> before long.
>
> Thanks for listening to the ramble, and greetings to all!

ah ... happy new synth-year, finally ;-)

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "elle_webb" <elle_webb@h...> wrote:
> A new year makes you consider weighty, lofty things....like what
> you're going to add to your synth this year?
> 
> What are your synth plans for this year?

Finishing my current projects like my Milton Sequencers (I'm still
waiting for two bank boards), a MOTM-820 & 410, couple of Oakley stuff.

So new things I'll consider not until the second half of 2004, I guess.

By then I'll also know how my experimental music stuff is doing and
then I may need a couple of MOTM-700s. Also a 480 or 440 or even 310s
would be nice - have to check.

But it's still time to ponder until then.

   All the best, Michael.