MOTM

Cutting acrylic is best done with a carbide tipped blade on a circular 
saw, when working with large sheets. A ten inch blade with 80 teeth is 
about right. There are special designs for this (beveling and 
clearance), so checking with a plastics supplier could help get you 
pointed in the right direction. Smaller pieces may be cut quite well 
with a band saw. Again, use fine teeth 14+ per inch. The key to acrylic 
success with this tool is to feed slooooowly. Warning, table saws and 
band saws are not for the careless!

I do not think a jigsaw/skill saw would be a good choice. Too much 
chatter. Any small "catch" in the cut can cause a starting place for a 
future crack. Perhaps not so bad for a synth, but brutal for a fish tank.

Scott
---------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Brewster wrote:

> That's a great idea to use plexiglass.  I have not worked with it.  What 
> kinds of saw work well on plexiglass?  I don't have a table saw.  Would 
> a Dremel tool work?
> 
> -Richard Brewster
> 
> Scott Juskiw wrote:
> 
> 
>>I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a 
>>plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use 
>>these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels, 
>>works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape 
>>them on for marking the jacks and pots.
>> 
>>
>>
>>>Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for 
>>>modules till they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley 
>>>SVF module and I don't want to wait to use it. I was thinking about 
>>>using heavy cardboard or wood and gluing a printout of the 
>>>frontpanel design onto the front, just as an ugly solution so the 
>>>module is usable till I get a stooge panel. Any other ideas for a 
>>>temp solution?
>>>   
>>>
> 
> 
> 
>  
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