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Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-01 by paulhaneberg

I do have a drill press.  I use several different bit sizes, 
starting out small and working my way up.  The biggest problem I 
have is twisted bits of scrap staying on the bit and scratching the 
paint a little around the hole as the bit rotates.  I do stop the 
press to get thee bits off (not with my bare hands) but sometimes 
they are hard to catch right away.  The panel side of the hole turns 
out very clean but the back side usually has burrs.  I remove these 
by just touching the panel backside with an oversize bit at a slow 
speed.  I always drill my panels on a good size wood block as well.

Now if only I could find a drill bit for those square and 
rectangular holes :) I do have a tool for drilling square holes in 
wood believe it or not.  I'm curious as to whether the holes on 
official MOTM panels are actually drilled or if they are punched out.

Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-01 by J. Larry Hendry

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: paulhaneberg <phaneber@...>
> I do have a drill press.  I use several different bit sizes, starting out
small and working my way up.  The biggest problem I
have is twisted bits of scrap staying on the bit and scratching the paint a
little around the hole as the bit rotates.

This is exactly how I drill panels.  To avoid the scraps from scratching the
fron, I cover the front with a painters masking tape before I drill.  Of
course, you have to center punch them first so you can find the hole
locations throught the tape.

> I remove these by just touching the panel backside with an oversize bit at
a slow speed.

I do that same thing.  I hit the front slightly too.  They do make a drill
press special tool for that task.  However, when assembly line drilling
panels, I find the larger bit is the best.  Since I am making usually 4 size
holes (1/8", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8", I drill all holes with the smaller bits.
Then, I use the next size up to clean the smaller holes right as I drill
that next size. It saves me a lot of bit swapping.  And, after a hole
reaches its ultimate size, I ALWAYS cover that hole with masking tape to
avoid hitting it with the next larger bit by accident.

> I'm curious as to whether the holes on official MOTM panels are actually
drilled or if they are punched out.

On the Stooge panels, the 4 corner holes are laser cut.  All of my aluminum
is laser cut.  However, I have seen evidence on some of Paul's MOTM panels
at the edge that they are sheared instead.  Therefore, the could be punched.
I can pretty much you assure you they are not drilled.

Stooge brackets are CNC stamped (except I did get some that were laser cut
one time).

Stooge flat rail holes are ALL drilled (and then some holes tapped) .  That
is one of the reasons they are so expensive.  The metal shops are usually
going to avoid drilling as much as possible.

Larry (stooge metal guy)

Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-01 by Jeffrey Pontius

[Hoping that I am not taking us too off-topic, but since it relates
primarily to synth panels...]

> > I do have a drill press.
Do you guys with drill presses have the larger shop machines or do you
have the 'mini' (bench top?)drill presses?  I've looked at the latter
thinking that they might work for drilling panels, but while I have
experience with the shop drill presses, I've never used a 'mini'
drill press.
Any comments, especially if you have a 'mini' drill press?
Thanks, Jeff

Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-01 by J. Larry Hendry

I use a bench top press.  It is the largest size you can get before you jump
to the floor standing size that Sear sells. 1/2 HP 10" and it has always
been fine for panel drilling.  I paid $179 I think.  I believe it is on sale
right now for $139.  It is not variable speed. You have 5 speeds depending
on which pulley you set the belt on.  I always leave mine on the slowest
speed for metal anyhow.  You can go all out on something more expensive.
But, I find this one fully adequate for panel drilling.  A "serious" wood
worker would be disappointed I think.
Larry H
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeffrey Pontius <jpont@...>
To: J. Larry Hendry <jlarryh@...>
Cc: <motm@yahoogroups.com>; paulhaneberg <phaneber@...>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes


[Hoping that I am not taking us too off-topic, but since it relates
primarily to synth panels...]

> > I do have a drill press.
Do you guys with drill presses have the larger shop machines or do you
have the 'mini' (bench top?)drill presses?  I've looked at the latter
thinking that they might work for drilling panels, but while I have
experience with the shop drill presses, I've never used a 'mini'
drill press.
Any comments, especially if you have a 'mini' drill press?
Thanks, Jeff

Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-01 by robert taylor

On the big vs. little drill press topic-

Being a retired machinist�I have used both \ufffda few times\ufffd and IMHO I see no real advantage in a larger machine over a smaller machine�if:

a) The smaller machine has the capacity to comfortably do the work�(the work piece physically fits, and the machine has the right speed and hp for the job).� Drilling�thin aluminum panels I find a smaller machine "handier".�

b) The machine is sturdy/rigid enough.� Do you have a way to hold the work piece securely?

Does the chuck wiggle around?A lot of the cheap bench top drill presses (often available under $100) are real bad about this.If you can grab the chuck and wiggle it around with your hand, there go any tolerances you may have been trying to keep by using a drill press.I would prefer to use a hand drill.Also, some of those cheap drill presses will stall out with hardly any pressure.

Chips sticking to the bit and scarring the work piece can be minimized with proper (made for aluminum) lubricants.

Ideally, instead of using a drill bit, a rotary broach would work great for cutting these holes, but is kinda expensive for just a few panels.And of course a milling machine would be a lot better than using a drill press (easy to control exact location and diameters of holes, could stack a lot of panels and do them at once).

I\ufffdm just gonna use an old craftsman bench top (mini)�press.

Hope this novel was of some help.

Robert


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Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-04 by Scott Evans, Gen Mgr

Larry,

What do you use as a drilling lubricant? I have always used kerosine for 
drilling raw aluminum, but I'm not sure if this would attack the paint 
on the panel.

Scott
-----------------------------------------------------------
J. Larry Hendry wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I use a bench top press.  It is the largest size you can get before you jump
> to the floor standing size that Sear sells. 1/2 HP 10" and it has always
> been fine for panel drilling.  I paid $179 I think.  I believe it is on sale
> right now for $139.  It is not variable speed. You have 5 speeds depending
> on which pulley you set the belt on.  I always leave mine on the slowest
> speed for metal anyhow.  You can go all out on something more expensive.
> But, I find this one fully adequate for panel drilling.  A "serious" wood
> worker would be disappointed I think.
> Larry H
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeffrey Pontius <jpont@...>
> To: J. Larry Hendry <jlarryh@...>
> Cc: <motm@yahoogroups.com>; paulhaneberg <phaneber@...>
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 10:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes
> 
> 
> [Hoping that I am not taking us too off-topic, but since it relates
> primarily to synth panels...]
> 
> 
>>>I do have a drill press.
>>
> Do you guys with drill presses have the larger shop machines or do you
> have the 'mini' (bench top?)drill presses?  I've looked at the latter
> thinking that they might work for drilling panels, but while I have
> experience with the shop drill presses, I've never used a 'mini'
> drill press.
> Any comments, especially if you have a 'mini' drill press?
> Thanks, Jeff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
>

Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-04 by J. Larry Hendry

I am not currently using a lubricant.  I think Tap Magic is about as good as
it gets.  But, I have been getting along fine without any.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Evans, Gen Mgr <esresource@...>
To: J. Larry Hendry <jlarryh@...>
Cc: <motm@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes


Larry,

What do you use as a drilling lubricant? I have always used kerosine for
drilling raw aluminum, but I'm not sure if this would attack the paint
on the panel.

Scott
-----------------------------------------------------------
J. Larry Hendry wrote:
> I use a bench top press.  It is the largest size you can get before you
jump
> to the floor standing size that Sear sells. 1/2 HP 10" and it has always
> been fine for panel drilling.  I paid $179 I think.  I believe it is on
sale
> right now for $139.  It is not variable speed. You have 5 speeds depending
> on which pulley you set the belt on.  I always leave mine on the slowest
> speed for metal anyhow.  You can go all out on something more expensive.
> But, I find this one fully adequate for panel drilling.  A "serious" wood
> worker would be disappointed I think.
> Larry H
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeffrey Pontius <jpont@...>
> To: J. Larry Hendry <jlarryh@...>
> Cc: <motm@yahoogroups.com>; paulhaneberg <phaneber@...>
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 10:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes
>
>
> [Hoping that I am not taking us too off-topic, but since it relates
> primarily to synth panels...]
>
>
>>>I do have a drill press.
>>
> Do you guys with drill presses have the larger shop machines or do you
> have the 'mini' (bench top?)drill presses?  I've looked at the latter
> thinking that they might work for drilling panels, but while I have
> experience with the shop drill presses, I've never used a 'mini'
> drill press.
> Any comments, especially if you have a 'mini' drill press?
> Thanks, Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-04 by Mark

On 8/3/03, Scott Evans, Gen Mgr put forth:
>Larry,
>
>What do you use as a drilling lubricant? I have always used kerosine for
>drilling raw aluminum, but I'm not sure if this would attack the paint
>on the panel.

I can't speak for Larry, but since you posted to the list...

I wouldn't use anything as flammable as kerosine.  Drills often 
produce sparks.  Any thin oil like CRC Cutting Oil should work fine, 
and is much safer to use.  Flash rust is a non-issue with aluminum, 
and a lubricant that contains water will help keep the bit cool. 
Thats what I use.   Imho, plain silicone and multipurpose sprays 
(like WD-40) are too "soft" and evaporate too quickly.  Not that it's 
an issue with Stooge panels, but the use of silicone lubricants also 
requires extra prep if you are going to paint the metal later.

Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-04 by Scott Evans, Gen Mgr

Mark,

Although drilling steel and iron may cause sparking, we are talking 
aluminum here. With proper lube, including kerosine, I have never, in 30 
years, seen a spark off of aluminum. Kerosine is TOTALLY inappropriate 
for drilling other metals. Use any decent lube oil for steel or other 
metals.

Scott
-----------------------------------------------------
Mark wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> On 8/3/03, Scott Evans, Gen Mgr put forth:
> 
>>Larry,
>>
>>What do you use as a drilling lubricant? I have always used kerosine for
>>drilling raw aluminum, but I'm not sure if this would attack the paint
>>on the panel.
> 
> 
> I can't speak for Larry, but since you posted to the list...
> 
> I wouldn't use anything as flammable as kerosine.  Drills often 
> produce sparks.  Any thin oil like CRC Cutting Oil should work fine, 
> and is much safer to use.  Flash rust is a non-issue with aluminum, 
> and a lubricant that contains water will help keep the bit cool. 
> Thats what I use.   Imho, plain silicone and multipurpose sprays 
> (like WD-40) are too "soft" and evaporate too quickly.  Not that it's 
> an issue with Stooge panels, but the use of silicone lubricants also 
> requires extra prep if you are going to paint the metal later.
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
>

RE: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes

2003-08-05 by Brousseau, Paul E (Paul)

With all due respect to your expirience, I would personally recommend
against the practice, at least in a non-professional environment.  It
would be too easy for someone without proper training to not think about
their lube if they switched to a harder metal-- and no one wants to meet
the sausage monster.

--PBr
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Evans, Gen Mgr [mailto:esresource@...] 
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 10:57 AM
To: Mark; motm@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [motm] Re: Stooge [Panels] Drilling Holes


Mark,

Although drilling steel and iron may cause sparking, we are talking 
aluminum here. With proper lube, including kerosine, I have never, in 30

years, seen a spark off of aluminum. Kerosine is TOTALLY inappropriate 
for drilling other metals. Use any decent lube oil for steel or other 
metals.

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