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2003-02-05 by Adam Schabtach
Question for those of you who have drilled Stoge panels with a drill press: is it still advisable to center-punch the hole locations when using a drill press, or is the bit not likely to walk? I guess it depends on how good my drill press is, eh? :-) Thanks-- --Adam -- Adam Schabtach adam@... http://www.studionebula.com
2003-02-05 by Kevin B
I just wanted to throw my $00.02 in here about drilling.� If you are getting ready to drill your Stooge panels (or any panel really), and you just so happen to have access to a machine shop equipped with a milling machine, use that instead of the drill press.� I found that a milling machine will make�a nice, perfectly round, clean hole with�almost no flash on the back side.� Also, they are usually more�precise than�most drill presses, and I have not yet needed to use a�center punch.� Another benefit is that the flash from the hole generally travels up the bit, away from what you are drilling, so you don't risk scratching your beautiful panel finish.� I'm not knocking drill presses, just if you happen to have a choice between the two, use the milling machine!� If you don't, then listen to Larry Hendry.
Kevin
2003-02-05 by J. Larry Hendry
I always center punch. I use the Sears automatic punch with the red ball on top. MUCH easier and more accurate than the hammer method. LH
----- Original Message ----- From: Adam Schabtach <adam@...> To: MOTM List <motm@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 6:32 PM Subject: [motm] Drilling question Question for those of you who have drilled Stoge panels with a drill press: is it still advisable to center-punch the hole locations when using a drill press, or is the bit not likely to walk? I guess it depends on how good my drill press is, eh? :-) Thanks-- --Adam -- Adam Schabtach adam@... http://www.studionebula.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
2003-02-05 by Dave Hylander
At 05:32 PM 2/4/03 -0700, Adam Schabtach wrote: >Question for those of you who have drilled Stoge panels with a drill press: >is it still advisable to center-punch the hole locations when using a drill >press, or is the bit not likely to walk? I guess it depends on how good my >drill press is, eh? :-) Definitely use a center punch. After punching the locations, I put some masking tape on the face of the panel to protect it from the chips. Then pilot drill with a 3/16" or so bit followed by finish size. Use a cutting fluid if you have it. A dab of liquid soap will work ok on aluminium. Dave
2003-02-05 by ixqy@aol.com
Hello, When I was drilling my Miniwave panel, I couldn't center the punch on the light bar holes. The LED holes were too small to see what I was doing. I got around this problem by using a large nail. Since the tip of the nail had a sharp point, I was able to make a small hole dead center at each LED position. The nail only makes a small hole in the panel surface, but it's just big enough to help center the punch afterwards. Andrew In a message dated 2/4/03 7:49:00 PM Central Standard Time, david@... writes: > At 05:32 PM 2/4/03 -0700, Adam Schabtach wrote: > >Question for those of you who have drilled Stoge panels with a drill press: > >is it still advisable to center-punch the hole locations when using a drill
> >press, or is the bit not likely to walk? I guess it depends on how good my > >drill press is, eh? :-) > > Definitely use a center punch. After punching the locations, I put some > masking tape on the face of the panel to protect it from the chips. Then > pilot drill with a 3/16" or so bit followed by finish size. Use a cutting > fluid if you have it. A dab of liquid soap will work ok on aluminium. >
2003-02-05 by J. Larry Hendry
----- Original Message -----From: Kevin BSent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 7:06 PMSubject: Re: [motm] Drilling questionI just wanted to throw my $00.02 in here about drilling. If you are getting ready to drill your Stooge panels (or any panel really), and you just so happen to have access to a machine shop equipped with a milling machine, use that instead of the drill press. I found that a milling machine will make a nice, perfectly round, clean hole with almost no flash on the back side. Also, they are usually more precise than most drill presses, and I have not yet needed to use a center punch. Another benefit is that the flash from the hole generally travels up the bit, away from what you are drilling, so you don't risk scratching your beautiful panel finish. I'm not knocking drill presses, just if you happen to have a choice between the two, use the milling machine! If you don't, then listen to Larry Hendry.
Kevin
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2003-02-05 by mate_stubb <mate_stubb@yahoo.com>
I'm probably too anal about it, but when I drill panels for folks I start with a center punch, then progress up through 5 bit sizes to keep the amount of metal being removed at any one time to a minimum. That way I don't have to tape the front. When drilling MiniWave LED rows, I cheat - I had a steel template made that I can just clamp over the panel to ensure that the holes are lined up. Moe >>>>> When I was drilling my Miniwave panel, I couldn't center the punch on the light bar holes. The LED holes were too small to see what I was doing. <<<<<
2003-02-05 by Adam Schabtach
Thanks, everyone, for the drilling advice. > When drilling MiniWave LED rows, I cheat - I had a steel template > made that I can just clamp over the panel to ensure that the holes > are lined up. That's a good cheat. Getting those eight holes done is going to be interesting. I figure I can use a fence to make sure that they're all in a line, but getting them evenly spaced is going to be a delicate task. All of this is a moot point for awhile, though. It's snowing here in Colorado and the garage is too cold for operating a drill press. :-) --Adam -- Adam Schabtach adam@... http://www.studionebula.com
2003-02-05 by echophazer <echophazer@aol.com>
--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "mate_stubb <mate_stubb@y...>" <mate_stubb@y...> wrote: > I'm probably too anal about it, but when I drill panels for folks I > start with a center punch, then progress up through 5 bit sizes to > keep the amount of metal being removed at any one time to a minimum. > That way I don't have to tape the front. > > When drilling MiniWave LED rows, I cheat - I had a steel template > made that I can just clamp over the panel to ensure that the holes > are lined up. > > Moe If you want a good center punch check out this cool product: http://www.ezlok.com/center.htm You pop in a magnification lens with crosshairs. Line it up with your center. Pull out the lens, slide in the punch which shares the same centerline as the crosshairs and give it a tap with a hammer. Unfortunately since I work in a metrology lab my standards of anal go well beyond .002" though. Peter
2003-02-05 by J. Larry Hendry
Wow !! Now there something nice to have. Are they expensive? Of course, if I used that on each of the 200+ panel holes I drilled Sunday, it might have taken a little longer. I like that part about "no skill required." :) Stooge Larry
----- Original Message ----- From: <echophazer@...> If you want a good center punch check out this cool product: http://www.ezlok.com/center.htm You pop in a magnification lens with crosshairs. Line it up with your center. Pull out the lens, slide in the punch which shares the same centerline as the crosshairs and give it a tap with a hammer. Unfortunately since I work in a metrology lab my standards of anal go well beyond .002" though. Peter
2003-02-06 by echophazer <echophazer@aol.com>
--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "J. Larry Hendry" <jlarryh@i...> wrote: > Wow !! Now there something nice to have. Are they expensive? Of course, > if I used that on each of the 200+ panel holes I drilled Sunday, it might > have taken a little longer. I like that part about "no skill required." :) > Stooge Larry > This is another nice one: http://www.precisionmeasure.com/tool9.htm They cost anywhere between $50 to $90. I kind of like this DIY optical center punch though: http://www.nucleus.com/~harlan/punch.html btw... the panels look great! Thank you. Peter