MOTM

With rack space getting really limited I'm starting to think about
shoving the 900 PSU BEHIND the rack. The main issues I have questions about
are; where (and how) do I mount the toggle(power) switch? Anyone have any
experience with this? I'm not looking to do major surgery.

                Thanks,
                John
-- 
ELECTRO:DISCO:RETRO:FUTURE
http://www.hongkongcounterfeit.com

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, inform3r <inform3r@o...> wrote:
>     With rack space getting really limited I'm starting to think 
about
> shoving the 900 PSU BEHIND the rack. The main issues I have 
questions about
> are; where (and how) do I mount the toggle(power) switch? Anyone 
have any
> experience with this? I'm not looking to do major surgery.
> 


I have a question about this also.......
I have the PSU screwed into the 'wood' on the back of a wood 
rack .......any danger of this thing starting a fire or burning the 
wood?

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, inform3r <inform3r@o...> wrote:
>     With rack space getting really limited I'm starting to think 
about
> shoving the 900 PSU BEHIND the rack. The main issues I have 
questions about
> are; where (and how) do I mount the toggle(power) switch? Anyone 
have any
> experience with this? I'm not looking to do major surgery.
> 


I have a question about this also.......
I have the PSU screwed into the 'wood' on the back of a wood 
rack .......any danger of this thing starting a fire or burning the 
wood?

On Sat, 11 Jan 2003, inform3r wrote:

>     With rack space getting really limited I'm starting to think about
> shoving the 900 PSU BEHIND the rack. The main issues I have questions about
> are; where (and how) do I mount the toggle(power) switch? Anyone have any
> experience with this? I'm not looking to do major surgery.
>
Currently I have one of my motm 900's mounted on the back-rightside
(viewing from the front) in a 10" deep cabinet.  The 900 is mounted (using
the original holes in the 900) to steel shelving rails (the rails that are
attached to walls with snap-in shelf brackets), with the rails screwed
into 2 of the 4"X1" rear cabinet braces set off by 1/2" metal spacers.
*****You  should be careful though. If you cannot see the switch, ...
behind your  cabinet and need to 'feel around' to find the 900 switch,
then this setup is probably not a good idea.*****

[I think we need a 1U panel with switch and fuse (optionally, AC power
cord socket) for power units mounted internally to cabinets {I'm trying to
'encourage' someone in particular :-) }].
 Jeff

If you are using one of those typical Power One supplies where the
chassis is the heat sink, you should not screw it down directly to a
wood cabinet. You need to have some air circulation around the chassis
if you ever want to use the PS near it's rated output. The best bet is
to use at least 1/2" spacers to elevate the PS off the wood case.

--
Regards,
--/////--
John Blacet
Blacet Research
http://www.blacet.com

I think I get plenty of circulation because my cabinets are open the 
back.  I did not realize that the panel was the heat sink.  I've 
never felt it be even mildy warm, though...

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, John Blacet <john@b...> wrote:
> If you are using one of those typical Power One supplies where the
> chassis is the heat sink, you should not screw it down directly to 
a
> wood cabinet. You need to have some air circulation around the 
chassis
> if you ever want to use the PS near it's rated output. The best 
bet is

> to use at least 1/2" spacers to elevate the PS off the wood case.
> 
> --
> Regards,
> --/////--
> John Blacet
> Blacet Research
> http://www.blacet.com

I'll offer my $.02 (since I usually do). If you power supply is running hot
enough to ignite wood, it is overloaded.  Having said that, when I mounted
mine (on wood also), I mounted the regulators away from any contact with
wood.  They are on the inside back on this photo.
http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/cabinet/lower_open_09.jpg

----- Original Message -----
From: <datacult@...>
I have a question about this also.......
I have the PSU screwed into the 'wood' on the back of a wood
rack .......any danger of this thing starting a fire or burning the
wood?

The Synth of Doom mounts the PSUs upside down in the back using small 
aluminum angle brackets, so that the mass of the aluminum chassis is 
facing up instead of down to the wood:

http://www.hotrodmotm.com/images/case/synth_of_doom_back2.jpg

Moe

>>>>
If you are using one of those typical Power One supplies where the
chassis is the heat sink, you should not screw it down directly to a
wood cabinet. You need to have some air circulation around the chassis
if you ever want to use the PS near it's rated output. The best bet is
to use at least 1/2" spacers to elevate the PS off the wood case.
<<<<

Can any way give me a way to determine the frequency
of a VCO or LFO below 200 Hz?  I have a Fluke 87-III
and that is the slowest frequency it can detect.

Thanks!
Shemp

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In a message dated 1/11/03 5:03:38 PM Central Standard Time, 
tentochi2003@... writes:

> Can any way give me a way to determine the frequency
>  of a VCO or LFO below 200 Hz?  I have a Fluke 87-III
>  and that is the slowest frequency it can detect.

 I think either a frequency counter or oscilloscope would be the most logical 
choices. A freq. counter would be more precise, unless you got one of the 
more expensive scopes with the readouts of frequencies, voltages, and what 
not. 

 I'm not really sure how accurate the handheld voltmeters with frequency 
measurement are. I guess they'd be pretty accurate (?).

 Andrew

If your VCO is in the audio range and you can hear it, tune a second 
VCO exactly one or more octaves higher until it gets into the range 
that your meter can read. Then for each octave you added, halve the 
freq reading.

Example: vco tuned two octaves up reads 440 Hz. Divide by two twice 
to get 110 Hz.

Moe

>>>>
Can any way give me a way to determine the frequency
of a VCO or LFO below 200 Hz? I have a Fluke 87-III
and that is the slowest frequency it can detect.
<<<<

It is a DIY Stooge panel made for a fellow MOTMer. GIF attached.  This panel
will be added to the public panel list and made available for purchase if
the PCB is made available.  I don't want to sell panels in advance of
knowing the module described is actually available in PCB form.
Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: robert taylor
Does anyone know anything about this?


"The RFE-901 is a 1U power supply control and stereo headphone amplifier.
This module provides a front-panel power switch for MOTM format synths as
well as a stereo headphone amplifier for late-night playing.  There are LEDs
to indicate presence of power supply voltages, as well as "Volume" and
"Balance" controls to adjust the level and balance of the left and right
audio inputs.  This module is NOT a power supply - it just controls the AC
mains power to the power supply you already have!  A stooge panel design for
this module exists and the first article is expected in September or October
2002."
http://www.radio-flier.com/diy_corner.html