MOTM

Hi Gang,

I am in the process of MOTM'Izing my Wiard Joyrider VCF into a 3 space panel 
and I need to know the details of punching a 1 inch hole in the panel for 
the joystick. How does one do this? I know there is a method with punch or 
die something or other but I obviously need help. Can you lend a hand with 
some info please, thanks a million,

Thomas White



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>Hi Gang,
>
>I am in the process of MOTM'Izing my Wiard Joyrider VCF into a 3 space panel
>and I need to know the details of punching a 1 inch hole in the panel for
>the joystick. How does one do this? I know there is a method with punch or
>die something or other but I obviously need help. Can you lend a hand with
>some info please, thanks a million,
>
>Thomas White

A big drill bit and a round file will do it every time. Draw the 1 
inch hole on the metal with a pencil. Start with a small hole in the 
middle of the and move up to your biggest drill bit (mine is 5/8 
inch). Then use a round metal file to carve out that last bit. Takes 
about 20 minutes, but you can really tweak the hole while you're 
filing to make it perfect.

I needed to enlarge some holes in a panel recently. I went to Villagers 
Hardware and found a reamer; half a dozen turns and the holes were just 
the right size. A lot quicker and neater than a file.

nathan

>>Hi Gang,
>>
>>I am in the process of MOTM'Izing my Wiard Joyrider VCF into a 3 space panel
>>and I need to know the details of punching a 1 inch hole in the panel for
>>the joystick. How does one do this? I know there is a method with punch or
>>die something or other but I obviously need help. Can you lend a hand with
>>some info please, thanks a million,
>>
>>Thomas White
>
>A big drill bit and a round file will do it every time. Draw the 1 
>inch hole on the metal with a pencil. Start with a small hole in the 
>middle of the and move up to your biggest drill bit (mine is 5/8 
>inch). Then use a round metal file to carve out that last bit. Takes 
>about 20 minutes, but you can really tweak the hole while you're 
>filing to make it perfect.
>

>They make a thing called a uni-bit. (perhaps same as what others are calling
>tapered reamer)  They use them a lot at work because they are fast.   Me, I
>have a 1" drill bit.  So, I do like Scott said and start small and work my
>way up.  But, nice bits int he 3/4 to 1 inch range are about $30 each.  For
>just a few, the $45 uni-but will take you a long way.

Micro-Mark has the 1/2" Unibit for $23 (and a lot of other cool tools as well):

http://www.micromark.com/


Direct link to it:

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/81875.html

Unfortunately this is only the 1/2" Unibit but it's still well worth having
(at least you can see what we're talking about--that and the description
pretty much says it all). They make bigger ones--try Lowes.


A tapered reamer is for hand use--do they even make them this big?:

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/15128.html
-- 

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

"By the end of Chuck Statler's 'Rock Videos' of Devo we agreed that even if
Devo did not take the stage it was still the best concert any of us had
ever attended." --Kim Thayil (Soundgardern), 1995

>
>
>A tapered reamer is for hand use--do they even make them this big?:

Mine is about 3/4 at the end.

nathan

>They make a thing called a uni-bit. (perhaps same as what others are calling
>tapered reamer)  They use them a lot at work because they are fast.   Me, I
>have a 1" drill bit.  So, I do like Scott said and start small and work my
>way up.  But, nice bits int he 3/4 to 1 inch range are about $30 each.  For
>just a few, the $45 uni-but will take you a long way.

Mine's a hand-held reamer, cost about $8-10, easy and safe.

nathan

Mouser has a one inch Greenlee punch for $22. I have various sizes of these for
XLR's etc. Makes a very clean hole. Charles.


"J. Larry Hendry" wrote:

> They make a thing called a uni-bit. (perhaps same as what others are calling
> tapered reamer)  They use them a lot at work because they are fast.   Me, I
> have a 1" drill bit.  So, I do like Scott said and start small and work my
> way up.  But, nice bits int he 3/4 to 1 inch range are about $30 each.  For
> just a few, the $45 uni-but will take you a long way.
>
> Larry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jwbarlow@...
> In a message dated 1/28/02 3:11:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> nate@... writes:
>
> I went to Villagers
> Hardware and found a reamer
>
> You specifically want a tapered reamer -- definitely worth it compared to
> trying to file out a smaller hole.
>
> JB
> \
>
>                    Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>                        ADVERTISEMENT
>                        [Click Here!]
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

They make a thing called a uni-bit. (perhaps same as what others are calling
tapered reamer)  They use them a lot at work because they are fast.   Me, I
have a 1" drill bit.  So, I do like Scott said and start small and work my
way up.  But, nice bits int he 3/4 to 1 inch range are about $30 each.  For
just a few, the $45 uni-but will take you a long way.

Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: jwbarlow@...
In a message dated 1/28/02 3:11:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nate@... writes:

I went to Villagers
Hardware and found a reamer

You specifically want a tapered reamer -- definitely worth it compared to
trying to file out a smaller hole.

JB
\

Do punches work ok on 1/8" thick MOTM-style panels?  The catalog says up to
.079" thick aluminum.

                    ...Craig

----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Stella" <cstella@...>
To: <motm@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [motm] Help Guys MOTM


>
> Mouser has a one inch Greenlee punch for $22. I have various sizes of
these for
> XLR's etc. Makes a very clean hole. Charles.
>
>
> "J. Larry Hendry" wrote:
>
> > They make a thing called a uni-bit. (perhaps same as what others are
calling
> > tapered reamer)  They use them a lot at work because they are fast.
Me, I
> > have a 1" drill bit.  So, I do like Scott said and start small and work
my
> > way up.  But, nice bits int he 3/4 to 1 inch range are about $30 each.
For
> > just a few, the $45 uni-but will take you a long way.
> >
> > Larry
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: jwbarlow@...
> > In a message dated 1/28/02 3:11:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > nate@... writes:
> >
> > I went to Villagers
> > Hardware and found a reamer
> >
> > You specifically want a tapered reamer -- definitely worth it compared
to

> > trying to file out a smaller hole.
> >
> > JB
> > \
> >
> >                    Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> >                        ADVERTISEMENT
> >                        [Click Here!]
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

I *don't think* this can punch 0.125 aircraft aluminum :)

<Paul S>

> Mouser has a one inch Greenlee punch for $22. I have various sizes of these for
> XLR's etc. Makes a very clean hole. Charles.

On the subject of Micro-mark,  I got their small hobby metal brake.  A cool
tool to have for the occasional fabrication.  I used it to create the very
first Stooge Bracket.  I got my money's worth out of that one.  Just got a
drill doctor professional drill bit sharpener too.  My bits got dull
drilling all those Stooge panels. :)
Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: KA4HJH <ka4hjh@...>
To: J. Larry Hendry <jlarryh@...>
Cc: <motm@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [motm] Help Guys MOTM


>They make a thing called a uni-bit. (perhaps same as what others are
calling
>tapered reamer)  They use them a lot at work because they are fast.   Me, I
>have a 1" drill bit.  So, I do like Scott said and start small and work my
>way up.  But, nice bits int he 3/4 to 1 inch range are about $30 each.  For
>just a few, the $45 uni-but will take you a long way.

Micro-Mark has the 1/2" Unibit for $23 (and a lot of other cool tools as
well):

http://www.micromark.com/


Direct link to it:

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/81875.html

Unfortunately this is only the 1/2" Unibit but it's still well worth having
(at least you can see what we're talking about--that and the description
pretty much says it all). They make bigger ones--try Lowes.


A tapered reamer is for hand use--do they even make them this big?:

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/15128.html
--

Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

"By the end of Chuck Statler's 'Rock Videos' of Devo we agreed that even if
Devo did not take the stage it was still the best concert any of us had
ever attended." --Kim Thayil (Soundgardern), 1995

In a message dated 1/28/02 6:52:12 PM, jlarryh@... writes:

<< They make a thing called a uni-bit. >>

I really like Unibits.  Get the real thing at just about any electrical 
supply house.  Make sure you've got the item to be drilled firmly clamp to 
your work surface.  They do work great!

Ivan

I have not seen the Mouser Greenlee.  But, we do punch stuff much stronger
than 1/8 alum at work with them.  The Greenlee is one awesome tool.  We even
have the hydraulic version that will snap through some really tough stuff.

Moe has one on order to try for the MIDI jack holes in the MIDIdac. (I'm
poor, so I am still drilling them).  We will let him report on his success..
:)  Hey Moe ??

Stooge Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Schreiber <synth1@...>
I *don't think* this can punch 0.125 aircraft aluminum :)

<Paul S>

> Mouser has a one inch Greenlee punch for $22. I have various sizes of
these for
> XLR's etc. Makes a very clean hole. Charles.

Paul scoffs:
>>>>
I *don't think* this can punch 0.125 aircraft aluminum :)

> Mouser has a one inch Greenlee punch for $22. I have various sizes 
> of these for XLR's etc. Makes a very clean hole. Charles.
<<<<

I have a 5/8" Greenlee punch on order for doing the Oakley MidiDac 
midi jacks holes. I'll let everyone know if it can handle a MOTM 
panel or not.

If it works, it's definitely a clean and fast way of making a hole.

Moe

It comes from all those big amps we have at work. They are significantly
larger than the amps we get to play with at home. I will be letting amps
into a 150,000 pound transformer tomorrow morning. Aahh... the sound of a
1/4 million volt circuit breaker slamming shut, 75 tons of steel and copper
coming to life, the faint order of ozone in the air, and the hair raising
tingle of a hefty electromagnetic field make a guy think he can chew holes
in the metal with his bare teeth.

I'm not mad. I'm not crazy.  We don't work on the stuff energized because we
want to keep the lights on.  We do it because we like it.  Calling Dr.
Frankenstein.


----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Schreiber <synth1@...>
Stooge Larry es muy macho.

Paul S.

>Do punches work ok on 1/8" thick MOTM-style panels?  The catalog says up to
>.079" thick aluminum.

It can probably do .079" aluminum with a 5,000lb press -- do you have one
of those?? :)  Regardless, painted .125 is about twice as thick as
unpainted .079.

If I had to cut a 1" hole in 1/8" aluminum, I'd use a hole saw.

Aircraft aluminum is really nothing special in the way of hardness.  It 
flexes better which is important for aircraft and it weld more cleanly than 
lower grades of alu.

I happened to have a 15/16 greenlee punch hanging around and a old MOTM 
panel.  The punch went through fairly easily using  a 8" adjustable 
wrench.  Put some Tap-Free or other cutting oil on and it makes a nice 
clean hole.  WD-40 would work as well.

dave

At 11:32 PM 1/28/2002 -0600, J. Larry Hendry wrote:

>I have not seen the Mouser Greenlee.  But, we do punch stuff much stronger
>than 1/8 alum at work with them.  The Greenlee is one awesome tool.  We even
>have the hydraulic version that will snap through some really tough stuff.
>
>Moe has one on order to try for the MIDI jack holes in the MIDIdac. (I'm
>poor, so I am still drilling them).  We will let him report on his success..
>:)  Hey Moe ??
>
>Stooge Larry
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Paul Schreiber <synth1@...>
>I *don't think* this can punch 0.125 aircraft aluminum :)
>
><Paul S>

Thanks to everybody for the input. I used a hole saw and it worked great! I 
will try to post picks soon. The labeling of DIY panels is a bitch. We need 
to make those generic labels with tick marks and things like "In" and "Out" 
soon! Get these on a nice plastic with adhesive backing that will last on 
our hearty panels. Ciao'

Thomas


>From: mark@...
>To: "Craig Critchley" <craigc@...>
>CC: <motm@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [motm] Help Guys MOTM
>Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:07:26 -0500 (EST)
>
>
> >Do punches work ok on 1/8" thick MOTM-style panels?  The catalog says up 
>to
> >.079" thick aluminum.
>
>It can probably do .079" aluminum with a 5,000lb press -- do you have one
>of those?? :)  Regardless, painted .125 is about twice as thick as
>unpainted .079.
>
>If I had to cut a 1" hole in 1/8" aluminum, I'd use a hole saw.
>
>
>




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>---- Original Message ----- 
>From: nathan durham <nate@...>
>Mine's a hand-held reamer, cost about $8-10,
>easy and safe.
>
>--LH--
>Never seen one of those.  How about a photo or tell us where you got it. :)
>
>Larry
>
>
Sorry, no photo. It's a 4" cone with 5 cutting edges, about 3/4 inch at 
the large end, and a T-handle. I got it at Villagers Hardware; Home Depot 
probably has them. I think it's a standard plumbers tool.

nathan