MOTM

On 8/30/03, J. Larry Hendry put forth:
>  > ----- Original Message -----
>>  From: klstay <kevinstay@...>
>>  I will probably go with a Weller WTCPT. I understand it is reliable and
>more than adequate for my level of planned use. However, I still have no
>idea what tips to get for building the kits!?!
>
>Everyone has a different opinion on tips.  I like to use the smallest tips
>available.  I personally like the ones that are slighly flattened onthe end
>instead of completely pointed.

Otoh, I use the conical tips with my WTCPT.  It's up to you.  What 
you want is the right temperature -- 700 degrees.  The shape doesn't 
matter much.

>I recommend starting with a meter you are happy with, the nice iron you
>mentioned, and your hand tools.  I think that Paul still has a builders FAQ
>on his website that recommends hand tools.  I find my vise for holding the
>PCB when soldering wires invaluable.  Some people use the expensive panavise
>(nice).  I have one that was less expensive and I find completey adaquete.
>I also bought a heat gun for the heat shrink tbing.  Seems each kit has
>some.  I find I use that for many other tasks around the house too.

I have a Panavise Rapid PCB Assembler.  It is very nice, but utterly 
unnecessary.  You can buy this "helping hands" gizmo at Radio Shack 
for $10, take off the alligator clips, and use the bolts to clamp a 
PCB right into it.

I probably should buy a heat gun, but so far, I've gotten by without one.

The most important tip I can offer, is do not even think about using 
pliers to build the front panels.  I have a set of hollow nut 
drivers, as well as several socket sets, but I use combination 
wrenches.  Just go easy -- you are building a precision electronic 
device, not mounting a diesel engine.  You don't need an entire set. 
Off the top of my head, all you need is 1/2" (pots and jacks) and 
5/16" (switches and nuts).  You also need a 1/16" allen key (to set 
the knobs), a #1 Phillips screwdriver, a little plastic screwdriver 
from an alignment set (for the trimpots), needlenose pliers (for 
crimping wires), and a small pair of dikes.  Afaik, that's it.

As far as diagonal cutters are concerned, you can get by with a small 
pair of electrician style dikes (Klein, Channelock, etc.).  But I 
recommend getting a pair that has a much smaller and more angled 
head, and short spring-loaded grips for PCB work.  It will be much 
quicker and easy to maneuver.  You want a quality pair so that the 
blades last (use them only for copper wire of less than the maximum 
recommended diameter).  Few hardware stores carry them, but you can 
buy a pair online or through a catalog for $20-30.  A small pair of 
regular dikes (or even better, a small pair of shears) is good for 
cutting cable ties.

You also might want a solder sucker in case you make a mistake.

>If you have these basics, then you can choose to add things like a scope or
>a frequency caounter, or whatever as you find you need one.

This is true.  I never used a scope or frequency counter to build 
MOTM.  In most cases, the best adjustment is by ear.  The 
instructions are extremely good, and if you get stuck, there is an 
entire list of people here to help you.