MOTM

At 7:22 AM -0500 05/09/01, J. Larry Hendry wrote:
>
>Super.  One word or caution -- Don't rush your assembly.  Certainly, the
>most common causes of non-working modules is very simple mistakes with
>improperly placed components.

Good advice.

While I'm not done building this first batch of modules (I plan to buy the
second batch at the end of the Summer, after they come out), the only
problem I had was with the 410.  I sent it back to Paul S. for repair.  He
couldn't find anything wrong with it, and sent it back.  The turnaround was
very quick.  As it turns out it was merely homesick, Paul took it out for a
night of longnecks and line-dancing, and now it works fine :)  Actually, it
turns out it was the power supply.  I erroneously assumed it was the 410
because it was my only audio module.

Anyway, here's some advice for new builders like ourselves:

1) Follow the directions, and sort out your parts before you begin
assembly.  Go through the checklist, and check off each and every part.  I
can't stress this enough. I use egg cartons and a magic marker to sort
resistors.
2) If you haven't already, memorize the color codes.
3) Resistor color codes are not painted on by interior decorators who think
"eggshell" and "coconut" are two distinct colors.  Brown can often look
like red or orange, and vice versa.  If you have any doubt, use a DVM.
4) Get a magnifying glass to read IC's and capacitors.
5) Double check your IC's before soldering.  Switching around a cap or
diode is one thing, but unsoldering an IC is a royal pain.
6) Don't assume the red wires attach to #2, because red is two, and right
is red, which is channel two.  As counterintuitive as that might be, take a
few deep breaths and force your brain to solder the wires in the right
place.
7) Use a device to hold the PCB.  A Panavise is excellent, but expensive. I
was going to buy one, but if you get the "helping hands" from Radio Shack
($10) and remove the alligator clips, it will hold a PCB just fine if you
put a pieces of cardboard under each screw.
8) Use decent hand tools.  Read the advice at the website.  The
instructions recommend using dikes, however I recommend a pair of miniature
angled "end cutters" for clipping the leads off the PCB.  They're about $25.
9) I recommend using a plastic driver to attach the pot nuts so that you
cannot scratch the panel.  I use the large handle that slips over a set of
miniature nut drivers -- these sets are often inexpensive.
10) You can buy whatever drivers you need from Sears or an auto-parts
store.  You don't need a whole set -- just these sizes: 5/16" nut driver, a
5/16" open end wrench (if any of your kits use switches), a 1/2" deep
socket for the pots, and an 1/8" hex (allen) key for the knobs.  Do not use
an adjustable wrench -- adjustable wrenches are for plumbers, who have to
deal with a variety of corroded and encrusted fasteners.  Whatever you do,
do not use pliers to tighten the nuts -- you might as well use a hammer.
11) Clear your work area.  Put away any tools you are not using.  Put away
any other diy projects.  Get organized.
12) Please, take your time.  Larry has a MOTM system that looks like half
the World Trade Center at night.  If he can afford to take his time, you
can too.

If you need any more advice, folks around here are just full of it :)