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SDS9 repair questions

SDS9 repair questions

2013-12-05 by <samzehr@...>

Hi all

I received my SDS9 from eBay with 3 sheared off knobs. Looking through the archives, this seems to be a common problem, although I don't see a definitive replacement part for the pots or the knobs. I'm missing Volume, Lo Tom Volume, and Auto Speed. While I wait for parts, if anyone sees something wrong with what I am ordering, please let me know!

I'd love to keep it looking original, but even if I could find the right knobs, I can't find a pot with the same shaft. Perhaps someone on the list has a lead on these? I've seen an old message that an Ed Rose might know - is he still on the list?

In the meantime, I've ordered the following from www.smallbearelec.com
Single-Gang 16mm Rt-angle PC Mt. Knurled Shaft   (100K Linear)
Alpha Single-Gang 16mm Rt-angle PC Mt. Knurled Shaft   (5K Linear)
With blue and white capped knurled knobs, hopefully it won't look too terrible

While I'm in there, is there anything that should be done?

I've never worked on this stuff before, but I have worked on some 80's arcade game boards, so I'm not surprised to see battery replacement as a big priority

I found in the archives a recommendation for a Varta COMP-18-3-NMH
I think I have the equivalent from Radio Shack on eBay
Dantona 3.6V/150mAh Ni-MH Memory Backup Battery #:COMP-18-3NMH

Electrolytic capacitor replacement? I see some mixed opinions. It can do wonders in a CRT monitor, but I don't have enough electronics knowledge to know which ones are most likely to cause problems. Maybe in the power supply? I hate to mess with something that is already working, but perhaps I'll replace any that I have equivalents on hand for.

That brings me to the next question - schematics. I was hoping to find a repository of schematics and/or service manuals - it appears there was such a thing, but it was stopped due to abuse. If anyone would be so kind to email me a schematic (SDS1 would also be much appreciated), I can assure you it will not be sold or redistributed.

Lastly, the headphone output is noisy. I hear that this is normal, but I've also heard that it gets worse over time, and can be helped with an IC replacement. Any thoughts on that?

Well, if you've read this far, thank-you! Feel free to point out anything else I should do while I've got the hood open, as I'd prefer to keep it off my bench and making noise!

Sam

Re: [Simmons Drums] SDS9 repair questions

2013-12-05 by jesper

samzehr@... skrev 2013-12-05 03:31:
> Hi all
>
> I received my SDS9 from eBay with 3 sheared off knobs. Looking through
> the archives, this seems to be a common problem, although I don't see a
> definitive replacement part for the pots or the knobs. I'm missing
> Volume, Lo Tom Volume, and Auto Speed. While I wait for parts, if anyone
> sees something wrong with what I am ordering, please let me know!

I found pots for my SDS-1's a bunch of years ago. I guess they are the
same. But the most important is that the house is small enough. I guess
that goes for the SDS-9 too...

> I'd love to keep it looking original, but even if I could find the right
> knobs, I can't find a pot with the same shaft. Perhaps someone on the
> list has a lead on these? I've seen an old message that an Ed Rose might
> know - is he still on the list?

You can find them on Ebay from now and then. I bought some for my EPB
but I'm not sure I have enough left. The knobs is with 99% certainly
Cliff Electronics. These are and were common on UK gear in the 70's and
80's. I've replaced many knobs and most often with Cliff... :)

> I've never worked on this stuff before, but I have worked on some 80's
> arcade game boards, so I'm not surprised to see battery replacement as a
> big priority

If placed in an idiotic place and/or in terrible shape - change. Use
rechargable or non-rechargable. It's your choice, but do modify the
circuit if going for non-rechargable. I prefer the later.

> Electrolytic capacitor replacement? I see some mixed opinions. It can do
> wonders in a CRT monitor, but I don't have enough electronics knowledge
> to know which ones are most likely to cause problems. Maybe in the power
> supply? I hate to mess with something that is already working, but
> perhaps I'll replace any that I have equivalents on hand for.

I normally consider this a bad idea. The PSU is the exception. But on
the other hand, there are plenty of 60's and 70's units still running
well on old caps.

> That brings me to the next question - schematics. I was hoping to find a
> repository of schematics and/or service manuals - it appears there was
> such a thing, but it was stopped due to abuse. If anyone would be so
> kind to email me a schematic (SDS1 would also be much appreciated), I
> can assure you it will not be sold or redistributed.

I have none for 9, but maybe 1. Will need to check at home.

--
electronically yours, jesper

- -- --- ---- ----- ---- --- -- -
www.electronic-obsession.se

RE: SDS9 repair questions

2013-12-05 by <warlandr63@...>

Replacement pots "can" be found from some suppliers. Original potentiometers use a thin and somewhat flimsy shaft size. They used to be available in plastic or metal (better choice) but are pretty hard to come buy nowadays as are the matching knobs. There are plenty of "parts brokers" out in the world who seem to do a good job hunting down many old components. Do a search on the net and send out a few emails, you never know your luck.


I agree with Jesper on the battery replacement, if possible go for a replaceable lithium arrangement BUT YOU MUST modify the original circuit to remove the charging capability or you will blow the lithium battery up!! The mod is simple and requires you put a "blocking" diode in series with the battery positive. This will allow power from the battery to feed the SRAM but will block voltage from being applied to the battery.


As to capacitor replacement, yes a contentious issue. Certainly I always replace any caps relating to the PSU side of things. These cop the greatest hammering and depending on the quality, will no longer be within original specs. As to the rest of the circuitry, everyone seems to have there own views ( a bit like climate change..lol). It is true to say it is pretty pointless to simply replace ALL capacitors just because they are old. It is akin to putting a new engine in an old car when really a simple tuneup would suffice.

You need to replace those that are affecting the performance of the device. IF you get to a point where that may be 60 to 70% of the originals caps, then sure it wont hurt to go all the way, but don't do it simply because you can.


Simmons schematics, the old chestnut. The originals floating about are generally poor. They tend to be "cobbled" together, old early revisions, missing bits, user modified, manual merchant stamped and simply incorrect documents of garbage (well that's my view anyway) There are some good copies around but you will need to go to the source of those to get them. Some group members have gone to the time and effort to manually trace and redraw schematics of some simmons gear and these docs are good. If you are looking for good SDS7 service info, next time you go to the crapper, don't flush the paper, use that to do your fault analysis. What you will see on the crap paper is far better than what you will see reading the available SDS7 service manual.

RE: SDS9 repair questions

2013-12-10 by <philmurr@...>

If you Google for "Omeg 4mm" you should get enough hits to point you in the right direction for replacement pots.

 

My view on capacitors - replace electrolytics wherever they are, PSU or not.  There aren't many in Simmons kit other than the PSU so they're worth replacing.  And if you're working on an SDX power supply, replace all the type X / mains capacitors (or be prepared for them to let out a huge amount of horrible smelling smoke one day).

 

Schematics - I agree with the previous post, some of them are good, some awful - even the simplest early product schematics have lots of errors, but they're a starting point.  There is a readable SDS7 schematic out there if you look hard enough...  For the products where schematics are just not available (which fortunately appears to be the minority), spend the time making your own and you'll really find out how it works !

 

 

RE: SDS9 repair questions

2013-12-10 by <warlandr63@...>

My comment on the state of schematics was intended to be a bit "tongue in cheek" so to speak.
You are right about there is a "reasonable" copy floating around - it is a bout 10meg in size, BUT
it is still pretty hard to follow if you have little knowledge or experience in electronics. Who ever
drew up the SDS7 diagram used a lot of "schematic shorthand" and for the uninitiated it will confuse
the hell out of them. If you look closely, you will also notice a number of "floating" circuit connections
that simply go no where. Again unless you refer back to IC data sheets and have an understanding as
to what is intended, you will certainly come up against a wall of grief.

As to capacitor replacement, it doesn't matter what the area of interest (electronics) it is always a contentious issue with many arguments for and against. After years (many decades) of experience
in this industry I have come to my own conclusions on this topic.

1) PSU's "cop a hammering" and bad filtering will always impart noise on the DC supply lines so I
give these a fair bit of attention when servicing. If the device is over 10 yrs old I will usually replace
all PSU caps. That being said, I have seen a hell of a lot of service mount stuff that is quite recent that
are showing failing electrolytics. I can't explain exactly why but I have my suspicions it has something
to do with 2 factors - a) poor quality components and b) highly compact placement with little thought
gone into factors of component heating. Simply put, the caps are being cooked off by heat generated by
surrounding components. Electrolytics vent off and dry out overtime. Like old Nicad batteries they tend
to "electrically form" after a while and fall out of spec, the quality of the component tends to determine
the nature of this issue but is no guarantee against failure.

2) Tantalums are like "penny crackers", they all go bang. Replace them.

3) ceramic types are generaly low tolerance specs and over time quite stable. Unless one is identified
as bad, don't worry about them.

4) Mylar and other "modern" type caps - see 3 above.

RE: SDS9 repair questions

2013-12-11 by <samzehr@...>

Thanks jabba (and everyone else)

Well, any schematics would be helpful - I had more wanted them to know what cap values to order, although (see below) I would have had to open up the unit to look at the physical properties anyway.

I tend to agree with you on caps, although to be honest, when I went through my spares, I had all the capacitance values, but could not get enough matches - either too low of voltage, or such higher voltage that the physical size was too big, or radial instead of axial. My impatience got the better of me - I wanted to hear this thing!

I replaced the pots with alpha 16mm from smallbearelec.com. While the component fit exactly right into the thru-holes, the shaft on the alpha is a few mm higher than the original. This meant that they come in slightly angled to fit into the chassis. I 'solved' this by mounting the board back in the frame before soldering, to make sure I had some wiggle-room. Soldered them in, along with a new battery, and it looks like I'm up and running.

Thanks
Sam