Vintage Simmons Drums (UK) Users Group

when i first got my mtm the battery leaked,there was no one in town to fix it.the paths where eaten,cleaned it with rubbing alchohal,cut the aluminum duct tape to fi ,used flux and bridged new paths,worked great.put the battery case in using 31.2 aa batteries .she lit up but had all bars across it,so i puuled the board out and traced every path with an ohm meter and resoldered suspicious solder joints, because i found if i left it out in the warm sun it would work but when it got cold it would not.but cover e proms.the bars will come up if the wire to the eprom is poor or the transformer wires which are delicate,also cleaned the 16 pin conections inside and it worked.midi worked too.trigger 5 and hi hat would trigger automatically so i finally found someone to clean it up.but now midi is not working so ill have to start again.one thing is if your battery shorts i think one of the solder joints in the back goes as this is the case with my second.the tech i took it to didnt have a module to test midi so ill take it back if i cant fix it but he said it would help to have a readable schematic for values,then he can fix the second,or ill start over as with the first.get it running and go from there

Well the best of luck to you Brian - most of that would be beyond my capabilities. As amatter of interest, is it practical to use 2 MTMs (I gather Jesper has 3)Is that a 16 pad setup? Merely interested, as I had to incorporate a roland octopad to keep things within reach

--- In Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Horton" <brianhorton21@...> wrote:

>
> when i first got my mtm the battery leaked,there was no one in town to fix it.the paths where eaten,cleaned it with rubbing alchohal,cut the aluminum duct tape to fi ,used flux and bridged new paths,worked great.put the battery case in using 31.2 aa batteries .she lit up but had all bars across it,so i puuled the board out and traced every path with an ohm meter and resoldered suspicious solder joints, because i found if i left it out in the warm sun it would work but when it got cold it would not.but cover e proms.the bars will come up if the wire to the eprom is poor or the transformer wires which are delicate,also cleaned the 16 pin conections inside and it worked.midi worked too.trigger 5 and hi hat would trigger automatically so i finally found someone to clean it up.but now midi is not working so ill have to start again.one thing is if your battery shorts i think one of the solder joints in the back goes as this is the case with my second.the tech i took it to didnt have a module to test midi so ill take it back if i cant fix it but he said it would help to have a readable schematic for values,then he can fix the second,or ill start over as with the first.get it running and go from there
>

Mark Frost skrev 2011-12-13 23:36:
> Well the best of luck to you Brian - most of that would be beyond my
> capabilities. As amatter of interest, is it practical to use 2 MTMs (I
> gather Jesper has 3)Is that a 16 pad setup? Merely interested, as I had
> to incorporate a roland octopad to keep things within reach

I only use one for pads to midi and all three for midi to drum synths. 
The good things with the MTM is the velocity control and that you can 
choose the output voltage. Now one controls my SDS-V, one the SDS-7 and 
one the SDS-III, SDS-IV and Pearl Syncussion. The inputs range from +5 
to +15 volts and therefor I find the MTM so good. Many trigger devices 
are more or less stuck at +5 or sometimes +10 while the MTM can deliver 
all the way to +15.
Also, many trigger devices have locked midi note numbers. With this 
setup I can have all three MTM's on the same channel and the trigger 
spread across the master keyboard.

-- 
electronically yours, jesper

- -- --- ---- ----- ---- --- -- -
www.electronic-obsession.se

well the mtm was working before ,so hopefully i csn do it again,there is 15 volts to the hi hat resister but nothing to the pads.it is getting midi i found when i change kits the light flashes on the other roland module so there is no voltage to the pads.anyway the next pad i build i want to make the snare three  zones across,plus rim shot. and so each zone could be a different octive or decay.,and the mtm dual layer or more per zone then ill do this for my main toms only two zones.i made one already with two zones for hi hat or cymbal depending on kit i choose.i making my own drum rack using pipe,its working well two bass drums ,three racks with each pad half over the other need to build the third still but im at 16 right now ,more to go

Uhm....

there should not be any voltage going from the MTM to the pad.

WT

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "Brian Horton" <brianhorton21@...>
To: <Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2011 9:05 PM
Subject: [Simmons Drums] Re: mtm


> well the mtm was working before ,so hopefully i csn do it again,there is 
> 15 volts to the hi hat resister but nothing to the pads.it is getting midi 
> i found when i change kits the light flashes on the other roland module so 
> there is no voltage to the pads.anyway the next pad i build i want to make 
> the snare three  zones across,plus rim shot. and so each zone could be a 
> different octive or decay.,and the mtm dual layer or more per zone then 
> ill do this for my main toms only two zones.i made one already with two 
> zones for hi hat or cymbal depending on kit i choose.i making my own drum 
> rack using pipe,its working well two bass drums ,three racks with each pad 
> half over the other need to build the third still but im at 16 right now 
> ,more to go
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

i thought there was voltage to some degree ,thats why it triggers when you plug the jack in the pad,but honestly im still learning every day about electronics,one thing i did notice is that when i trace the circuit with the volt meter ,there is at least .oo1 volts present dc,i am open to advice,ithoght voltage was present and depending how much the peizo (graphite)contacted allowed more voltage through it back to ground??.wish Michael Buchner lived in north america so i can get these modules fixed

Speaking of velocity control and Trig Out... A bit off-topic perhaps, but what's the recommended setting for driving the SDS-V with an MTM? Should the trig output be set to +15V or less... and it seems like the SDS-V sensitivity should be set to "Minimum" (turn sens knobs to the left) to minimize cross-triggering... or ?

cheers
// Lars

--- In Simmons_Drums@...m, jesper <jesper@...> wrote:

>
> Mark Frost skrev 2011-12-13 23:36:
> > Well the best of luck to you Brian - most of that would be beyond my
> > capabilities. As amatter of interest, is it practical to use 2 MTMs (I
> > gather Jesper has 3)Is that a 16 pad setup? Merely interested, as I had
> > to incorporate a roland octopad to keep things within reach
> 
> I only use one for pads to midi and all three for midi to drum synths. 
> The good things with the MTM is the velocity control and that you can 
> choose the output voltage. Now one controls my SDS-V, one the SDS-7 and 
> one the SDS-III, SDS-IV and Pearl Syncussion. The inputs range from +5 
> to +15 volts and therefor I find the MTM so good. Many trigger devices 
> are more or less stuck at +5 or sometimes +10 while the MTM can deliver 
> all the way to +15.
> Also, many trigger devices have locked midi note numbers. With this 
> setup I can have all three MTM's on the same channel and the trigger 
> spread across the master keyboard.
> 
> -- 
> electronically yours, jesper
> 
> - -- --- ---- ----- ---- --- -- -
> www.electronic-obsession.se
>

xylofoam skrev 2011-12-15 09:40:
> Speaking of velocity control and Trig Out... A bit off-topic perhaps,
> but what's the recommended setting for driving the SDS-V with an MTM?
> Should the trig output be set to +15V or less... and it seems like the
> SDS-V sensitivity should be set to "Minimum" (turn sens knobs to the
> left) to minimize cross-triggering... or ?
>
> cheers
> // Lars

To get the intended rimshot effect out of the snare you need +15 if you 
run the SDS-V through the synth input at the back. For years I triggered 
mine with the KADI outputs of a Kenton converter (+5) and there is a big 
difference, especially on the mentioned snare. Also on dedicated 
channels set to +10 it's not delivering enough.
SDS-7 wants +12 and most other units +5. On a side note I can mention 
that my EPU (the former Tangerine Dream drum synth) wanted +15 too but a 
friend helped me converting it to +5. I guess higher voltages was 
fashionable in the 70's. ;)

-- 
electronically yours, jesper

- -- --- ---- ----- ---- --- -- -
www.electronic-obsession.se

Sounds like a juicy setup. Can we get a picture?

--- In Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Horton" <brianhorton21@...> wrote:

>
> well the mtm was working before ,so hopefully i csn do it again,there is 15 volts to the hi hat resister but nothing to the pads.it is getting midi i found when i change kits the light flashes on the other roland module so there is no voltage to the pads.anyway the next pad i build i want to make the snare three  zones across,plus rim shot. and so each zone could be a different octive or decay.,and the mtm dual layer or more per zone then ill do this for my main toms only two zones.i made one already with two zones for hi hat or cymbal depending on kit i choose.i making my own drum rack using pipe,its working well two bass drums ,three racks with each pad half over the other need to build the third still but im at 16 right now ,more to go
>