Vintage Simmons Drums (UK) Users Group

If your SDS7 is working fine, you are a lucky man ;-). There is only 1 battery to change. Open the case on the right side by removing the right front panel (the one with the incrementor, buttons and display). It is only 4 screws. Now pull out the very right board, containing the rom, ram and- the battery. Pray, that the battery has had no leakage and your board is still ok. Replace with NiCd, not Mh, Voltage is 3,6V.
Michael 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hai
Is it not better to do the trick with 2 battery's????
use one to a kind of backup just solder it to the board, then replace,
then desolder the other one
I once had to replace a battery in a korg S3 and I did not do it like
this, and now he doesn't do a thing anymore, I kind of lost the ROM 


Good luck 
Berk !

ps Nice piece a sds7


--- In Simmons_Drums@...m, <michael.buchner@...> wrote:
>
> If your SDS7 is working fine, you are a lucky man ;-). There is only
1 battery to change. Open the case on the right side by removing the
right front panel (the one with the incrementor, buttons and display).
It is only 4 screws. Now pull out the very right board, containing the
rom, ram and- the battery. Pray, that the battery has had no leakage
and your board is still ok. Replace with NiCd, not Mh, Voltage is 3,6V.

> Michael 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Michael
Thank you very much for the information. 

As per your advice I removed the card.  I see a Round Cylinder that I assume 
is the case for the battery or batteries.  (Nothing else seems to even 
remotely resemble a battery.)  It is covered with what I will call a shrink wrap 
white cover. The cover is hiding what is underneath.  I can't clearly tell if this 
is a simple case holding batteries or this is a battery.  I can make out a 
connector to the board that goes under the shrink wrap and terminates at the 
top.  I assume this is one connector.  I tried to remove the shrink wrap cover 
but felt resistance and was afraid I was doing the wrong thing. I could try to 
desolder the entire case (or Battery) but thought you might know if I should 
remove the shrink wrap and replace the battery or batteries inside the case or 
desolder and remove the entire assembly.

Again thanks for your information. I really appreciate it.
Barry




In a message dated 8/19/2006 3:23:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
michael.buchner@... writes: 
> If your SDS7 is working fine, you are a lucky man ;-). There is only 1 
> battery to change. Open the case on the right side by removing the right front 
> panel (the one with the incrementor, buttons and display). It is only 4 screws. 
> Now pull out the very right board, containing the rom, ram and- the battery. 
> Pray, that the battery has had no leakage and your board is still ok. 
> Replace with NiCd, not Mh, Voltage is 3,6V.
> Michael


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Barry,
The batteries or their cases in different aeras of SDS7 had many shapes. Your round cylinder IS the battery itself, not a case. The shrink wrap is for preventing shortcuts.
You don't need to unwrap anything, desolder and remove it complete. Sometimes the battery is fixed to the board with doublesided tape or glue, so you might need some force. It doesn't matter if your new battery has another shape as the original, only voltage and polarity is important. I like to replace the batteries with 3 x 1.2V mignon size wired serial, because they are cheap and have a big capacity (if the owner wants to switch off his SDS7 for another 20 years...).
So: Good luck!
Michael  
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Michael 
I removed the battery by desoldering it.  It turned out to be two button 
batteries shrink wrapped and soldered together one on top of the other.  I assume 
the bottom flat part is the positive side and the bumpy other side is the 
negative.  (Let's hope so.  I've never seen ones quite like them - they are from 
Germany that is all I can read on them).  I am in the process of obtaining the 
NiCd 3.6 V as you said.  However, I don't know the term you used in your last 
E-mail  mignon.  The three battery replacment with large capacity sounds great 
so I belive I would like to do that.

Your information has been very helpful and I thank you very much.
Barry

PS as for the two battery trick from Berk !  Sounds like a good idea in the 
future but there was nothing to save right now,  all has been lost already.



In a message dated 8/20/2006 4:36:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
michael.buchner@... writes: 
> Hi Barry,
> The batteries or their cases in different aeras of SDS7 had many shapes. 
> Your round cylinder IS the battery itself, not a case. The shrink wrap is for 
> preventing shortcuts.
> You don't need to unwrap anything, desolder and remove it complete. 
> Sometimes the battery is fixed to the board with doublesided tape or glue, so you 
> might need some force. It doesn't matter if your new battery has another shape 
> as the original, only voltage and polarity is important. I like to replace the 
> batteries with 3 x 1.2V mignon size wired serial, because they are cheap and 
> have a big capacity (if the owner wants to switch off his SDS7 for another 
> 20 years...).
> So: Good luck!
> Michael  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hai
sorry for the loss
is there anybody out who can help me, cause I lost the memory of my Korg
S3
is it possible to upload a kind of sysex from a correct working piece and
then dump it in the lost one??

greet BERK!
>-- Oorspronkelijk bericht --
>To: Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com
>From: hypnotistb@cs.com
>Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 17:14:55 EDT
>Subject: Re: [Simmons Drums] Battery Replacment
>Reply-To: Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>Michael 
>I removed the battery by desoldering it.  It turned out to be two button
>
>batteries shrink wrapped and soldered together one on top of the other.

>I assume 
>the bottom flat part is the positive side and the bumpy other side is the
>
>negative.  (Let's hope so.  I've never seen ones quite like them - they
are
>from 
>Germany that is all I can read on them).  I am in the process of obtaining
>the 
>NiCd 3.6 V as you said.  However, I don't know the term you used in your
>last 
>E-mail  mignon.  The three battery replacment with large capacity sounds
>great 
>so I belive I would like to do that.
>
>Your information has been very helpful and I thank you very much.
>Barry
>
>PS as for the two battery trick from Berk !  Sounds like a good idea in
the
>
>future but there was nothing to save right now,  all has been lost already.
>
>
>
>In a message dated 8/20/2006 4:36:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>michael.buchner@... writes: 
>> Hi Barry,
>> The batteries or their cases in different aeras of SDS7 had many shapes.
>
>> Your round cylinder IS the battery itself, not a case. The shrink wrap
>is for 
>> preventing shortcuts.
>> You don't need to unwrap anything, desolder and remove it complete. 
>> Sometimes the battery is fixed to the board with doublesided tape or glue,
>so you 
>> might need some force. It doesn't matter if your new battery has another
>shape 
>> as the original, only voltage and polarity is important. I like to replace
>the 
>> batteries with 3 x 1.2V mignon size wired serial, because they are cheap
>and 
>> have a big capacity (if the owner wants to switch off his SDS7 for another
>
>> 20 years...).
>> So: Good luck!
>> Michael  
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>


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Barry
sorry, mignon is the battery size as we call it in germany. It is 13mm in diameter and about 49mm high cylindrical battery, I don't know but I think you call that "AA". If you don't understand what I mean (f... languages...), I'll send some photos to your private address.

The "two battery- trick" is useful, if there IS something you need in the memory. It is easy: you connect a second battery in parallel, replace the first, load it, and then remove the second again. But, in your case, there is nothing in the memory, so you don't need to use that trick.
If you have doubts about the polarity: Negative is close to C1 (a little yellow Capacitor) and if you are looking for +, look for the printed "1984", there is a point near the "8", leading to R1 and D2, this is a nice + for you.
Have fun
Michael
 
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, <michael.buchner@...> wrote:
>
> Barry
> sorry, mignon is the battery size as we call it in germany. It is 
13mm in diameter and about 49mm high cylindrical battery, I don't 
know but I think you call that "AA". If you don't understand what I 
mean (f... languages...), I'll send some photos to your private 
address.
> 
> The "two battery- trick" is useful, if there IS something you need 
in the memory. It is easy: you connect a second battery in parallel, 
replace the first, load it, and then remove the second again. But, in 
your case, there is nothing in the memory, so you don't need to use 
that trick.
> If you have doubts about the polarity: Negative is close to C1 (a 
little yellow Capacitor) and if you are looking for +, look for the 
printed "1984", there is a point near the "8", leading to R1 and D2, 
this is a nice + for you.
> Have fun
> Michael
>  
>  
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Michael
Thanks for all the help.  I found a case at Radio Shack (may be 
called Tandy in Europe) that holds 3 - 1.2 volt triple A (AAA) 
Batteries. I solders in two of these cases one I am using with the 
batteries and so far, so good.  The second is when I need to 
replace.  I hope in the future I can add new bateries before the 
others are totally gone.  I don't know how I will tell when this is 
needed but I'm hoping I will become aware before it is too late.

It is too bad that there isn't an information section on this site 
that contained info about how others have solved problems, added 
differnt components, or done modifications that others could learn 
from.

Well thanks again I'm up and running
Barry