Modular Synth Panels

I uploaded a 5U design to the preliminary bridechamber designs file.
It's missing the Shell Modulation switch. That will go where the LED
is, and the LED will drop below the switches.
It would be very easy to add a Filter Noise CV, since the EG and Freq
voltages are summed by an opamp right there anyway. You'd just need a
jack, a pot for attenuation, and a resistor. Anyone build this yet?
Sound good? There's room. We can just drop the switches down between
the pots and jacks, and put the attenuator where the switches are. It
will add a jack, though, and goof up that wonderful symmetry...


Scott Deyo
contact@...
The Bridechamber
www.bridechamber.com
Jealous Edison Record Kompany
www.jealousedison.com

I don't have the PCBs yet but I'm already working out some of the
details for this module. Bill and Will already have a panel proposed
for this (search for "flanger" on this page):

http://www.dragonflyalley.com/billAndWillMOTMSynth.htm

which I like, but there are some options to consider.

1. You don't need a rotary switch for LFO MODE. You can use one of
those 3 position centre-off switches. This frees up pot space for a 1V/
Oct tweak pot (this is shown as an option in the schematics). JH has
mentioned (on an electro-music forum) that the 1V/Oct tracking is not
so good, so having a front panel pot may be a good idea.
2. Can add a jack for LFO OUT (will likely need to add a buffer as
well). This would be post-LFO MODE switch, so the output will be
either ramp, slewed square, or S&H depending on LFO MODE setting.
3. There is a BPOL (bounce polarity) switch on the schematic. Hmmm,
first one who builds one of these will have to let us know if it's
worth implementing or not.

I'm still trying to figure out how best to hook up the LED. Should it
indicate the LFO (i.e. post-LFO MODE switch) or the total delay time?
This doesn't change the panel layout. I'll need to try out different
things after I get the boards in.

The hard constraint so far as the row of switches is concerned is only that the BYPASS switch is 1/2in from the edge of the panel because it's a 4PDT switch and needs the space.

BTW, let's all remember that it only comes as a regular "bat" toggle rather than the flattened ones that are MOTM standard. Will was considering disassembling a MOTM standard SPDP switch to see if we could transplant the toggle (assuming matching blood-types).

At any rate - the point is that wherever that bypass switch is placed (it makes sense to be either the left or right extreme), it needs about 1/2 in on either side of its center. Other than that there's plenty of room for another switch like the On-Off-On (M201302) switch Scott's mentioning.

OK - well - there's another possibility re the bypass switch - use two DPDT 201202 switches - one for left, one for right. I'm starting to like that idea better.

But anyway - Scott - could the 1V/oct tweak function be handled by a panel-mount trim pot a-la the Living VCO? (Trimmer (assumes 100K): Mouser# 594-43P104 and Panel-mount: Mouser# 594-611) That would save space on the panel, too.

If BYPASS is implemented with two switches, LFO MODE with an on-off-on, and a BPOL switch added, I think we could still fit it all nicely if we use a panel mount trimmer for 1V/oct rather than a pot-and-knob.

Just thinking.

Bill

--- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@...> wrote:
>
> I don't have the PCBs yet but I'm already working out some of the
> details for this module. Bill and Will already have a panel proposed
> for this (search for "flanger" on this page):
>
> http://www.dragonflyalley.com/billAndWillMOTMSynth.htm
>
> which I like, but there are some options to consider.
>
> 1. You don't need a rotary switch for LFO MODE. You can use one of
> those 3 position centre-off switches. This frees up pot space for a 1V/
> Oct tweak pot (this is shown as an option in the schematics). JH has
> mentioned (on an electro-music forum) that the 1V/Oct tracking is not
> so good, so having a front panel pot may be a good idea.
> 2. Can add a jack for LFO OUT (will likely need to add a buffer as
> well). This would be post-LFO MODE switch, so the output will be
> either ramp, slewed square, or S&H depending on LFO MODE setting.
> 3. There is a BPOL (bounce polarity) switch on the schematic. Hmmm,
> first one who builds one of these will have to let us know if it's
> worth implementing or not.
>
> I'm still trying to figure out how best to hook up the LED. Should it
> indicate the LFO (i.e. post-LFO MODE switch) or the total delay time?
> This doesn't change the panel layout. I'll need to try out different
> things after I get the boards in.
>

I wasn't planning on using a 4PDT switch for bypass. My plan is to use
a regular 2PDT switch connected to just the outputs: in the active
position the outputs are connected to the flanger outputs, in the
bypass position the outputs are connected to the inputs. This means
the inputs are always connected to the flanger, even in bypass mode,
but I see no significant disadvantage in doing so, and a significant
advantage in that I can use a regular switch. But if you really want
the inputs to switch as well, then I agree with you that two 2PDT
switches is probably a better choice than a 4PDT.

Panel mount trimmer? Hmm, I'm not so keen on having to dig out a
little screwdriver every time I need to tweak the 1V/OCT setting. I'd
probably wind up scratching the panel with the screwdriver tip. I say
make it a pot (maybe a small knob), or leave it out entirely. Maybe
it's not even worth adding. I'll have to try it out when I get the PCB.

Can you put the switches into two rows?

On 2-Oct-09, at 12:43 PM, wjhall11 wrote:

> The hard constraint so far as the row of switches is concerned is
> only that the BYPASS switch is 1/2in from the edge of the panel
> because it's a 4PDT switch and needs the space.
>
> BTW, let's all remember that it only comes as a regular "bat" toggle
> rather than the flattened ones that are MOTM standard. Will was
> considering disassembling a MOTM standard SPDP switch to see if we
> could transplant the toggle (assuming matching blood-types).
>
> At any rate - the point is that wherever that bypass switch is
> placed (it makes sense to be either the left or right extreme), it
> needs about 1/2 in on either side of its center. Other than that
> there's plenty of room for another switch like the On-Off-On
> (M201302) switch Scott's mentioning.
>
> OK - well - there's another possibility re the bypass switch - use
> two DPDT 201202 switches - one for left, one for right. I'm
> starting to like that idea better.
>
> But anyway - Scott - could the 1V/oct tweak function be handled by a
> panel-mount trim pot a-la the Living VCO? (Trimmer (assumes 100K):
> Mouser# 594-43P104 and Panel-mount: Mouser# 594-611) That would
> save space on the panel, too.
>
> If BYPASS is implemented with two switches, LFO MODE with an on-off-
> on, and a BPOL switch added, I think we could still fit it all
> nicely if we use a panel mount trimmer for 1V/oct rather than a pot-
> and-knob.
>
> Just thinking.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> I don't have the PCBs yet but I'm already working out some of the
>> details for this module. Bill and Will already have a panel proposed
>> for this (search for "flanger" on this page):
>>
>> http://www.dragonflyalley.com/billAndWillMOTMSynth.htm
>>
>> which I like, but there are some options to consider.
>>
>> 1. You don't need a rotary switch for LFO MODE. You can use one of
>> those 3 position centre-off switches. This frees up pot space for a
>> 1V/
>> Oct tweak pot (this is shown as an option in the schematics). JH has
>> mentioned (on an electro-music forum) that the 1V/Oct tracking is not
>> so good, so having a front panel pot may be a good idea.
>> 2. Can add a jack for LFO OUT (will likely need to add a buffer as
>> well). This would be post-LFO MODE switch, so the output will be
>> either ramp, slewed square, or S&H depending on LFO MODE setting.
>> 3. There is a BPOL (bounce polarity) switch on the schematic. Hmmm,
>> first one who builds one of these will have to let us know if it's
>> worth implementing or not.
>>
>> I'm still trying to figure out how best to hook up the LED. Should it
>> indicate the LFO (i.e. post-LFO MODE switch) or the total delay time?
>> This doesn't change the panel layout. I'll need to try out different
>> things after I get the boards in.
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Ok - I see how we could easily use one dpdt for the bypass switch. We were interpreting Jurgen's "schematic 6" literally. The DPDT idea looks better. If the switch hole is centered 1/2in from the edge, it would still be possible for people to use a 4 pole switch if they wanted to.

There really isn't room for two rows of switches - at least not to my eye... but I just did a trial and I think we could get all the switches in. I'll post it later.

--- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@...> wrote:
>
> I wasn't planning on using a 4PDT switch for bypass. My plan is to use
> a regular 2PDT switch connected to just the outputs: in the active
> position the outputs are connected to the flanger outputs, in the
> bypass position the outputs are connected to the inputs. This means
> the inputs are always connected to the flanger, even in bypass mode,
> but I see no significant disadvantage in doing so, and a significant
> advantage in that I can use a regular switch. But if you really want
> the inputs to switch as well, then I agree with you that two 2PDT
> switches is probably a better choice than a 4PDT.
>
> Panel mount trimmer? Hmm, I'm not so keen on having to dig out a
> little screwdriver every time I need to tweak the 1V/OCT setting. I'd
> probably wind up scratching the panel with the screwdriver tip. I say
> make it a pot (maybe a small knob), or leave it out entirely. Maybe
> it's not even worth adding. I'll have to try it out when I get the PCB.
>
> Can you put the switches into two rows?
>
> On 2-Oct-09, at 12:43 PM, wjhall11 wrote:
>
> > The hard constraint so far as the row of switches is concerned is
> > only that the BYPASS switch is 1/2in from the edge of the panel
> > because it's a 4PDT switch and needs the space.
> >
> > BTW, let's all remember that it only comes as a regular "bat" toggle
> > rather than the flattened ones that are MOTM standard. Will was
> > considering disassembling a MOTM standard SPDP switch to see if we
> > could transplant the toggle (assuming matching blood-types).
> >
> > At any rate - the point is that wherever that bypass switch is
> > placed (it makes sense to be either the left or right extreme), it
> > needs about 1/2 in on either side of its center. Other than that
> > there's plenty of room for another switch like the On-Off-On
> > (M201302) switch Scott's mentioning.
> >
> > OK - well - there's another possibility re the bypass switch - use
> > two DPDT 201202 switches - one for left, one for right. I'm
> > starting to like that idea better.
> >
> > But anyway - Scott - could the 1V/oct tweak function be handled by a
> > panel-mount trim pot a-la the Living VCO? (Trimmer (assumes 100K):
> > Mouser# 594-43P104 and Panel-mount: Mouser# 594-611) That would
> > save space on the panel, too.
> >
> > If BYPASS is implemented with two switches, LFO MODE with an on-off-
> > on, and a BPOL switch added, I think we could still fit it all
> > nicely if we use a panel mount trimmer for 1V/oct rather than a pot-
> > and-knob.
> >
> > Just thinking.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@>
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> I don't have the PCBs yet but I'm already working out some of the
> >> details for this module. Bill and Will already have a panel proposed
> >> for this (search for "flanger" on this page):
> >>
> >> http://www.dragonflyalley.com/billAndWillMOTMSynth.htm
> >>
> >> which I like, but there are some options to consider.
> >>
> >> 1. You don't need a rotary switch for LFO MODE. You can use one of
> >> those 3 position centre-off switches. This frees up pot space for a
> >> 1V/
> >> Oct tweak pot (this is shown as an option in the schematics). JH has
> >> mentioned (on an electro-music forum) that the 1V/Oct tracking is not
> >> so good, so having a front panel pot may be a good idea.
> >> 2. Can add a jack for LFO OUT (will likely need to add a buffer as
> >> well). This would be post-LFO MODE switch, so the output will be
> >> either ramp, slewed square, or S&H depending on LFO MODE setting.
> >> 3. There is a BPOL (bounce polarity) switch on the schematic. Hmmm,
> >> first one who builds one of these will have to let us know if it's
> >> worth implementing or not.
> >>
> >> I'm still trying to figure out how best to hook up the LED. Should it
> >> indicate the LFO (i.e. post-LFO MODE switch) or the total delay time?
> >> This doesn't change the panel layout. I'll need to try out different
> >> things after I get the boards in.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

How's this look

http://www.dragonflyalley.com/images/JHSOSTFlanger/JHSOSTFlangerV4vIIwidth2-56in.jpg

Did I place the LFO Modes correctly? I was just guessing.

--- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, "wjhall11" <wjhall@...> wrote:
>
> Ok - I see how we could easily use one dpdt for the bypass switch. We were interpreting Jurgen's "schematic 6" literally. The DPDT idea looks better. If the switch hole is centered 1/2in from the edge, it would still be possible for people to use a 4 pole switch if they wanted to.
>
> There really isn't room for two rows of switches - at least not to my eye... but I just did a trial and I think we could get all the switches in. I'll post it later.
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@> wrote:
> >
> > I wasn't planning on using a 4PDT switch for bypass. My plan is to use
> > a regular 2PDT switch connected to just the outputs: in the active
> > position the outputs are connected to the flanger outputs, in the
> > bypass position the outputs are connected to the inputs. This means
> > the inputs are always connected to the flanger, even in bypass mode,
> > but I see no significant disadvantage in doing so, and a significant
> > advantage in that I can use a regular switch. But if you really want
> > the inputs to switch as well, then I agree with you that two 2PDT
> > switches is probably a better choice than a 4PDT.
> >
> > Panel mount trimmer? Hmm, I'm not so keen on having to dig out a
> > little screwdriver every time I need to tweak the 1V/OCT setting. I'd
> > probably wind up scratching the panel with the screwdriver tip. I say
> > make it a pot (maybe a small knob), or leave it out entirely. Maybe
> > it's not even worth adding. I'll have to try it out when I get the PCB.
> >
> > Can you put the switches into two rows?
> >
> > On 2-Oct-09, at 12:43 PM, wjhall11 wrote:
> >
> > > The hard constraint so far as the row of switches is concerned is
> > > only that the BYPASS switch is 1/2in from the edge of the panel
> > > because it's a 4PDT switch and needs the space.
> > >
> > > BTW, let's all remember that it only comes as a regular "bat" toggle
> > > rather than the flattened ones that are MOTM standard. Will was
> > > considering disassembling a MOTM standard SPDP switch to see if we
> > > could transplant the toggle (assuming matching blood-types).
> > >
> > > At any rate - the point is that wherever that bypass switch is
> > > placed (it makes sense to be either the left or right extreme), it
> > > needs about 1/2 in on either side of its center. Other than that
> > > there's plenty of room for another switch like the On-Off-On
> > > (M201302) switch Scott's mentioning.
> > >
> > > OK - well - there's another possibility re the bypass switch - use
> > > two DPDT 201202 switches - one for left, one for right. I'm
> > > starting to like that idea better.
> > >
> > > But anyway - Scott - could the 1V/oct tweak function be handled by a
> > > panel-mount trim pot a-la the Living VCO? (Trimmer (assumes 100K):
> > > Mouser# 594-43P104 and Panel-mount: Mouser# 594-611) That would
> > > save space on the panel, too.
> > >
> > > If BYPASS is implemented with two switches, LFO MODE with an on-off-
> > > on, and a BPOL switch added, I think we could still fit it all
> > > nicely if we use a panel mount trimmer for 1V/oct rather than a pot-
> > > and-knob.
> > >
> > > Just thinking.
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@>
> > > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I don't have the PCBs yet but I'm already working out some of the
> > >> details for this module. Bill and Will already have a panel proposed
> > >> for this (search for "flanger" on this page):
> > >>
> > >> http://www.dragonflyalley.com/billAndWillMOTMSynth.htm
> > >>
> > >> which I like, but there are some options to consider.
> > >>
> > >> 1. You don't need a rotary switch for LFO MODE. You can use one of
> > >> those 3 position centre-off switches. This frees up pot space for a
> > >> 1V/
> > >> Oct tweak pot (this is shown as an option in the schematics). JH has
> > >> mentioned (on an electro-music forum) that the 1V/Oct tracking is not
> > >> so good, so having a front panel pot may be a good idea.
> > >> 2. Can add a jack for LFO OUT (will likely need to add a buffer as
> > >> well). This would be post-LFO MODE switch, so the output will be
> > >> either ramp, slewed square, or S&H depending on LFO MODE setting.
> > >> 3. There is a BPOL (bounce polarity) switch on the schematic. Hmmm,
> > >> first one who builds one of these will have to let us know if it's
> > >> worth implementing or not.
> > >>
> > >> I'm still trying to figure out how best to hook up the LED. Should it
> > >> indicate the LFO (i.e. post-LFO MODE switch) or the total delay time?
> > >> This doesn't change the panel layout. I'll need to try out different
> > >> things after I get the boards in.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

Yes, the LFO MODE switch matches what JH has in the schematics (and
his prototype). Looks like you have everything accounted for. Thanks
for doing this. When I get the PCBs I will build it to this layout and
let you know if the BPOL switch is worth having or not. Also, I have
some different ideas about how to implement the V/OCT tweak pot. I
might need to add a MUUB board for a buffer or two.

On 2-Oct-09, at 11:33 PM, wjhall11 wrote:

> How's this look
>
> http://www.dragonflyalley.com/images/JHSOSTFlanger/JHSOSTFlangerV4vIIwidth2-56in.jpg
>
> Did I place the LFO Modes correctly? I was just guessing.
>
>
> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, "wjhall11" <wjhall@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Ok - I see how we could easily use one dpdt for the bypass switch.
>> We were interpreting Jurgen's "schematic 6" literally. The DPDT
>> idea looks better. If the switch hole is centered 1/2in from the
>> edge, it would still be possible for people to use a 4 pole switch
>> if they wanted to.
>>
>> There really isn't room for two rows of switches - at least not to
>> my eye... but I just did a trial and I think we could get all the
>> switches in. I'll post it later.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I wasn't planning on using a 4PDT switch for bypass. My plan is to
>>> use
>>> a regular 2PDT switch connected to just the outputs: in the active
>>> position the outputs are connected to the flanger outputs, in the
>>> bypass position the outputs are connected to the inputs. This means
>>> the inputs are always connected to the flanger, even in bypass mode,
>>> but I see no significant disadvantage in doing so, and a significant
>>> advantage in that I can use a regular switch. But if you really want
>>> the inputs to switch as well, then I agree with you that two 2PDT
>>> switches is probably a better choice than a 4PDT.
>>>
>>> Panel mount trimmer? Hmm, I'm not so keen on having to dig out a
>>> little screwdriver every time I need to tweak the 1V/OCT setting.
>>> I'd
>>> probably wind up scratching the panel with the screwdriver tip. I
>>> say
>>> make it a pot (maybe a small knob), or leave it out entirely. Maybe
>>> it's not even worth adding. I'll have to try it out when I get the
>>> PCB.
>>>
>>> Can you put the switches into two rows?
>>>
>>> On 2-Oct-09, at 12:43 PM, wjhall11 wrote:
>>>
>>>> The hard constraint so far as the row of switches is concerned is
>>>> only that the BYPASS switch is 1/2in from the edge of the panel
>>>> because it's a 4PDT switch and needs the space.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, let's all remember that it only comes as a regular "bat"
>>>> toggle
>>>> rather than the flattened ones that are MOTM standard. Will was
>>>> considering disassembling a MOTM standard SPDP switch to see if we
>>>> could transplant the toggle (assuming matching blood-types).
>>>>
>>>> At any rate - the point is that wherever that bypass switch is
>>>> placed (it makes sense to be either the left or right extreme), it
>>>> needs about 1/2 in on either side of its center. Other than that
>>>> there's plenty of room for another switch like the On-Off-On
>>>> (M201302) switch Scott's mentioning.
>>>>
>>>> OK - well - there's another possibility re the bypass switch - use
>>>> two DPDT 201202 switches - one for left, one for right. I'm
>>>> starting to like that idea better.
>>>>
>>>> But anyway - Scott - could the 1V/oct tweak function be handled
>>>> by a
>>>> panel-mount trim pot a-la the Living VCO? (Trimmer (assumes 100K):
>>>> Mouser# 594-43P104 and Panel-mount: Mouser# 594-611) That would
>>>> save space on the panel, too.
>>>>
>>>> If BYPASS is implemented with two switches, LFO MODE with an on-
>>>> off-
>>>> on, and a BPOL switch added, I think we could still fit it all
>>>> nicely if we use a panel mount trimmer for 1V/oct rather than a
>>>> pot-
>>>> and-knob.
>>>>
>>>> Just thinking.
>>>>
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't have the PCBs yet but I'm already working out some of the
>>>>> details for this module. Bill and Will already have a panel
>>>>> proposed
>>>>> for this (search for "flanger" on this page):
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.dragonflyalley.com/billAndWillMOTMSynth.htm
>>>>>
>>>>> which I like, but there are some options to consider.
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. You don't need a rotary switch for LFO MODE. You can use one of
>>>>> those 3 position centre-off switches. This frees up pot space
>>>>> for a
>>>>> 1V/
>>>>> Oct tweak pot (this is shown as an option in the schematics). JH
>>>>> has
>>>>> mentioned (on an electro-music forum) that the 1V/Oct tracking
>>>>> is not
>>>>> so good, so having a front panel pot may be a good idea.
>>>>> 2. Can add a jack for LFO OUT (will likely need to add a buffer as
>>>>> well). This would be post-LFO MODE switch, so the output will be
>>>>> either ramp, slewed square, or S&H depending on LFO MODE setting.
>>>>> 3. There is a BPOL (bounce polarity) switch on the schematic.
>>>>> Hmmm,
>>>>> first one who builds one of these will have to let us know if it's
>>>>> worth implementing or not.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm still trying to figure out how best to hook up the LED.
>>>>> Should it
>>>>> indicate the LFO (i.e. post-LFO MODE switch) or the total delay
>>>>> time?
>>>>> This doesn't change the panel layout. I'll need to try out
>>>>> different
>>>>> things after I get the boards in.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>