Modular Synth Panels

What LED is everyone using with the Bride Chamber Tau Pipe Phaser panel?

I have a mouser 696-SSI-LXH387HGW, however the plastic housing is too big :(

Thanks,
Jim



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Jim -

Yes - we're going to use a 696-SSI-LXH387HGW as well. This is the
standard MOTM size LED. But the hole Scott made is smaller.

We're going to drill out the hole with a step-drill to the required
5/16" size. I think it's going to be a pretty straight-forward thing
to do.

Tell you what - we've been putting it off, but we'll try to get to it
this weekend and put the photos on our site, OK? We have to drill a
bunch of LED holes in our MOTM-800 panels too.

Bill and Will
http://www.dragonflyalley.com/jHTauPipeConstruction.htm






--- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, James Elliott
<johans121@...> wrote:

>
> Anyone??? Please...
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: James Elliott <johans121@...>
> To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 1:16:35 AM
> Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Tau Phaser LED
>
> What LED is everyone using with the Bride Chamber

Tau Pipe Phaser panel?

>
> I have a mouser 696-SSI-LXH387HGW, however the plastic housing is

too big :(

>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools. search.yahoo.

com/newsearch/ category. php?category= shopping

>
>
>
> <!--
>
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> border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:14px

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>
>
>
>
>

____________________________________________________________________________________

> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>

Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

On 3/6/08, wjhall11 put forth:

>We're going to drill out the hole with a step-drill to the required
>5/16" size. I think it's going to be a pretty straight-forward thing
>to do.

You can just use a regular bit.

>Tell you what - we've been putting it off, but we'll try to get to it
>this weekend and put the photos on our site, OK? We have to drill a
>bunch of LED holes in our MOTM-800 panels too.

Adding LED's to my 800's was one of the best mod decisions I ever
made. I used 741's that I already had, with a negative-going output
to balance out the power consumption.

Like Mark says, a hand drill is ideal for this job. The paint won't
chip, either. I make those holes smaller because individual users can
always drill them bigger if they need to, but we can't drill them
smaller : )

Another great tool for your drill is a unibit, especially for stainless
work, where your bit may catch and bend light-gauge metal. They're not
cheap, but I use mine all the time. (Thanks, Mr. Wright, for turning me
onto that!)

By the way, I have more Tau panels on the way for those who are waiting.

On Mar 6, 2008, at 8:07 AM, James Elliott wrote:

> Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
> easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can I
> use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going to
> take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
>
> -Jim
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: wjhall11 <wjhall@...>
> To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:05:46 AM
> Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Re: Tau Phaser LED
>
>
> Jim -
>
> Yes - we're going to use a 696-SSI-LXH387HGW as well. This is the
> standard MOTM size LED. But the hole Scott made is smaller.
>
> We're going to drill out the hole with a step-drill to the required
> 5/16" size. I think it's going to be a pretty straight-forward thing
> to do.
>
> Tell you what - we've been putting it off, but we'll try to get to it
> this weekend and put the photos on our site, OK? We have to drill a
> bunch of LED holes in our MOTM-800 panels too.
>
> Bill and Will
> http://www.dragonfl yalley.com/ jHTauPipeConstru ction.htm
>
> --- In ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com, James Elliott
> <johans121@. ..> wrote:
> >
> > Anyone??? Please...
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: James Elliott <johans121@. ..>
> > To: ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 1:16:35 AM
> > Subject: [ModularSynthPanels ] Tau Phaser LED
> >
> > What LED is everyone using with the Bride Chamber
> Tau Pipe Phaser panel?
> >
> > I have a mouser 696-SSI-LXH387HGW, however the plastic housing is
> too big :(
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jim
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> > Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> > Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools. search.yahoo.
> com/newsearch/ category. php?category= shopping
> >
> >
> >
> > <!--
> >
> > #ygrp-mkp{
> > border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font- family:Arial; margin:14px
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> > .replbq{margin: 4;}
> > -->
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> > http://www.yahoo. com/r/hs
> >
>
>
>
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
> Search.
>
>
>

I need a stepping bit myself to open up some panel holes too.
So with a stepping drill (bit)--presumably the "unibit"--do you drill from the
front or the back of the panel? I dont have a press. Is there any problem
with the bit 'catching' the metal? I'm trying to figure out how to prevent
injury while at the same time avoid scratching/rubbing the panel graphics.




--- Scott Deyo <contact@...> wrote:

> Like Mark says, a hand drill is ideal for this job. The paint won't
> chip, either. I make those holes smaller because individual users can
> always drill them bigger if they need to, but we can't drill them
> smaller : )
>
> Another great tool for your drill is a unibit, especially for stainless
> work, where your bit may catch and bend light-gauge metal. They're not
> cheap, but I use mine all the time. (Thanks, Mr. Wright, for turning me
> onto that!)
>
> By the way, I have more Tau panels on the way for those who are waiting.
>
>
> On Mar 6, 2008, at 8:07 AM, James Elliott wrote:
>
> > Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
> > easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can I
> > use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going to
> > take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
> >
> > -Jim
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: wjhall11 <wjhall@...>
> > To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:05:46 AM
> > Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Re: Tau Phaser LED
> >
> >
> > Jim -
> >
> > Yes - we're going to use a 696-SSI-LXH387HGW as well. This is the
> > standard MOTM size LED. But the hole Scott made is smaller.
> >
> > We're going to drill out the hole with a step-drill to the required
> > 5/16" size. I think it's going to be a pretty straight-forward thing
> > to do.
> >
> > Tell you what - we've been putting it off, but we'll try to get to it
> > this weekend and put the photos on our site, OK? We have to drill a
> > bunch of LED holes in our MOTM-800 panels too.
> >
> > Bill and Will
> > http://www.dragonfl yalley.com/ jHTauPipeConstru ction.htm
> >
> > --- In ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com, James Elliott
> > <johans121@. ..> wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyone??? Please...
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----
> > > From: James Elliott <johans121@. ..>
> > > To: ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 1:16:35 AM
> > > Subject: [ModularSynthPanels ] Tau Phaser LED
> > >
> > > What LED is everyone using with the Bride Chamber
> > Tau Pipe Phaser panel?
> > >
> > > I have a mouser 696-SSI-LXH387HGW, however the plastic housing is
> > too big :(
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> > > Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> > > Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools. search.yahoo.
> > com/newsearch/ category. php?category= shopping
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > <!--
> > >
> > > #ygrp-mkp{
> > > border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font- family:Arial; margin:14px
> > 0px;padding: 0px 14px;}
> > > #ygrp-mkp hr{
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> > >
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> > 122%;}
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> > 8px;}
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> > >
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> > text-transform: uppercase; }
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> > > }
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> > >
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> > 100%;line- height:122% ;}
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> > > -->
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>

=== message truncated ===



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On 3/6/08, Scott Deyo put forth:

>>Like Mark says, a hand drill is ideal for this job.

While I agree with myself, I would call it a a power drill :)

I do have an actual hand drill that belonged to my father. It has
wooden handles and a crank on the side like an eggbeater. I use to
drill PCB's, as it can't accidently skip and destroy traces.

>>The paint won't chip, either. I make those holes smaller because
>>individual users can always drill them bigger if they need to, but
>>we can't drill them smaller : )

Indeed :)

>>Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
>>easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can
>>I use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going
>>to take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?

You want a variable-spped power drill with a large-enough chuck to
fit the bits you are using. When I had to drill a bunch of panels,
including some tricky stuff like the LED holes for a MiniWave, I
borrowed this massive professional drill press from my next door
neighbor. Which was much better than using a hand-held power drill,
but not necessary if you only have to drill a few holes.

Secure it from moving (you can use the mounting holes in the corners
of the panel to screw it to a board), drill from front of the panel
so that any damage to the paint is to the back side, and use a
lubricant such as cutting and tapping spray.

http://www.hotrodmotm.com/drill_howto.htm

For holes that exist, and in thicker metal like panels, I'd recommend
using normal bits. The unibit may not make a uniform hole; the hole on
one side of the panel may be a little wider in thicker metal.
Use a metal tap if you have one to make a dent in the panel so the bit
doesn't skip around when you start drilling.

Definitely don't hold the panel. I still do that when I'm in a hurry.
Apparently, the chunk I took out of my hand one time didn't teach me
anything. Maybe the next chunk will.

It's funny I said hand drill. Now _that_ would make me quite the
uber-Luddite, eh?
: )

Scott Deyo
The Bridechamber
contact@...
www.bridechamber.com

On Mar 6, 2008, at 10:50 AM, loopcycle wrote:

> I need a stepping bit myself to open up some panel holes too.
> So with a stepping drill (bit)--presumably the "unibit"--do you drill
> from the
> front or the back of the panel? I dont have a press. Is there any
> problem
> with the bit 'catching' the metal? I'm trying to figure out how to
> prevent
> injury while at the same time avoid scratching/rubbing the panel
> graphics.
>
> --- Scott Deyo <contact@...> wrote:
>
> > Like Mark says, a hand drill is ideal for this job. The paint won't
> > chip, either. I make those holes smaller because individual users
> can
> > always drill them bigger if they need to, but we can't drill them
> > smaller : )
> >
> > Another great tool for your drill is a unibit, especially for
> stainless
> > work, where your bit may catch and bend light-gauge metal. They're
> not
> > cheap, but I use mine all the time. (Thanks, Mr. Wright, for
> turning me
> > onto that!)
> >
> > By the way, I have more Tau panels on the way for those who are
> waiting.
> >
> >
> > On Mar 6, 2008, at 8:07 AM, James Elliott wrote:
> >
> > > Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
> > > easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie
> can I
> > > use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going
> to
> > > take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
> > >
> > > -Jim
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----
> > > From: wjhall11 <wjhall@...>
> > > To: ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:05:46 AM
> > > Subject: [ModularSynthPanels] Re: Tau Phaser LED
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim -
> > >
> > > Yes - we're going to use a 696-SSI-LXH387HGW as well. This is the
> > > standard MOTM size LED. But the hole Scott made is smaller.
> > >
> > > We're going to drill out the hole with a step-drill to the
> required
> > > 5/16" size. I think it's going to be a pretty straight-forward
> thing
> > > to do.
> > >
> > > Tell you what - we've been putting it off, but we'll try to get
> to it
> > > this weekend and put the photos on our site, OK? We have to drill
> a
> > > bunch of LED holes in our MOTM-800 panels too.
> > >
> > > Bill and Will
> > > http://www.dragonfl yalley.com/ jHTauPipeConstru ction.htm
> > >
> > > --- In ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com, James Elliott
> > > <johans121@. ..> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Anyone??? Please...
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----
> > > > From: James Elliott <johans121@. ..>
> > > > To: ModularSynthPanels@ yahoogroups. com
> > > > Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 1:16:35 AM
> > > > Subject: [ModularSynthPanels ] Tau Phaser LED
> > > >
> > > > What LED is everyone using with the Bride Chamber
> > > Tau Pipe Phaser panel?
> > > >
> > > > I have a mouser 696-SSI-LXH387HGW, however the plastic housing
> is
> > > too big :(
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Jim
> > > >
> > > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> > > > Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> > > > Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools. search.yahoo.
> > > com/newsearch/ category. php?category= shopping
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> === message truncated ===
>
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>
>

I have a Sears hand drill that is a two speed, geared job, amazing bit of analog
toolmaking. It is a very fine and effective tool, better than many of the electrics I have
had.

gw

>
> I do have an actual hand drill that belonged to my father. It has
> wooden handles and a crank on the side like an eggbeater. I use to
> drill PCB's, as it can't accidently skip and destroy traces.
>
> >>The paint won't chip, either. I make those holes smaller because
> >>individual users can always drill them bigger if they need to, but
> >>we can't drill them smaller : )
>
> Indeed :)
>
> >>Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
> >>easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can
> >>I use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going
> >>to take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
>
> You want a variable-spped power drill with a large-enough chuck to
> fit the bits you are using. When I had to drill a bunch of panels,
> including some tricky stuff like the LED holes for a MiniWave, I
> borrowed this massive professional drill press from my next door
> neighbor. Which was much better than using a hand-held power drill,
> but not necessary if you only have to drill a few holes.
>
> Secure it from moving (you can use the mounting holes in the corners
> of the panel to screw it to a board), drill from front of the panel
> so that any damage to the paint is to the back side, and use a
> lubricant such as cutting and tapping spray.
>
> http://www.hotrodmotm.com/drill_howto.htm
>

i bored the LED hole out today with a Unibit on a handdrill and it
went smooth as anything.

has anyone completed their tau pipe modules yet?
im waiting for a 100k log pot to arrive.
and i have yet to do the front panel wiring.

--- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, "adaaxs" <wonggster@...> wrote:

> I have a Sears hand drill that is a two speed, geared job, amazing
bit of analog
> toolmaking. It is a very fine and effective tool, better than many
of the electrics I have
> had.
>
> gw
> >
> > I do have an actual hand drill that belonged to my father. It has
> > wooden handles and a crank on the side like an eggbeater. I use to
> > drill PCB's, as it can't accidently skip and destroy traces.
> >
> > >>The paint won't chip, either. I make those holes smaller because
> > >>individual users can always drill them bigger if they need to, but
> > >>we can't drill them smaller : )
> >
> > Indeed :)
> >
> > >>Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
> > >>easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can
> > >>I use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going
> > >>to take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
> >
> > You want a variable-spped power drill with a large-enough chuck to
> > fit the bits you are using. When I had to drill a bunch of panels,
> > including some tricky stuff like the LED holes for a MiniWave, I
> > borrowed this massive professional drill press from my next door
> > neighbor. Which was much better than using a hand-held power drill,
> > but not necessary if you only have to drill a few holes.
> >
> > Secure it from moving (you can use the mounting holes in the corners
> > of the panel to screw it to a board), drill from front of the panel
> > so that any damage to the paint is to the back side, and use a
> > lubricant such as cutting and tapping spray.
> >
> > http://www.hotrodmotm.com/drill_howto.htm
> >
>

I decided to drill an led hole in my panel too. The lack of led and switch options have
driven me to have my Tau, Multimix and others punched.

Yesterday , my wife saw me looking at a Dremel drill press for $38 at a Loews and bought
it for me. I don't know if it is possible or what to get to do it but I figure I can drill a pilot
hole and them hand ream it out (when my carpenter friend can't cut a super clean 4.98mm
hole in the thing).

I was planning on using shielded hook up on the outputs, Center to tip. Braid (screen) to
already bussed ground plane on out jacks. Screen trimmed on pcb end of wire. Twisted
twos or threes of stranded hookup on everything else.

>
> i bored the LED hole out today with a Unibit on a handdrill and it
> went smooth as anything.
>
> has anyone completed their tau pipe modules yet?
> im waiting for a 100k log pot to arrive.
> and i have yet to do the front panel wiring.
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, "adaaxs" <wonggster@> wrote:
>
> > I have a Sears hand drill that is a two speed, geared job, amazing
> bit of analog
> > toolmaking. It is a very fine and effective tool, better than many
> of the electrics I have
> > had.
> >
> > gw
> > >
> > > I do have an actual hand drill that belonged to my father. It has
> > > wooden handles and a crank on the side like an eggbeater. I use to
> > > drill PCB's, as it can't accidently skip and destroy traces.
> > >
> > > >>The paint won't chip, either. I make those holes smaller because
> > > >>individual users can always drill them bigger if they need to, but
> > > >>we can't drill them smaller : )
> > >
> > > Indeed :)
> > >
> > > >>Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
> > > >>easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can
> > > >>I use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going
> > > >>to take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
> > >
> > > You want a variable-spped power drill with a large-enough chuck to
> > > fit the bits you are using. When I had to drill a bunch of panels,
> > > including some tricky stuff like the LED holes for a MiniWave, I
> > > borrowed this massive professional drill press from my next door
> > > neighbor. Which was much better than using a hand-held power drill,
> > > but not necessary if you only have to drill a few holes.
> > >
> > > Secure it from moving (you can use the mounting holes in the corners
> > > of the panel to screw it to a board), drill from front of the panel
> > > so that any damage to the paint is to the back side, and use a
> > > lubricant such as cutting and tapping spray.
> > >
> > > http://www.hotrodmotm.com/drill_howto.htm
> > >
> >
>

I used a hand-held variable speed power drill with a unibit to drill
most of my Stooge panels. The unibit is by far the best discovery I
made for panel drilling. I use a center punch for each hole on the
front of the panel, then cover the whole panel in strips of painter's
masking tape. I use one of those sliding clamps with the rubber grips
to hold the panel down to the workbench with the area being drilled
protruding over the edge a bit. My drill has a level on it that helps
me keep the drill perpendicular to the work. Take your time and be
patient. I've only had one mishap where the drill slipped and slightly
marred a panel.

I bought one of those little drill presses for my Dremel tool, and I
find that I hardly use it. It's too flimsy. You can't drill a panel
with a Dremel tool anyway.

Richard Brewster
http://www.pugix.com

adaaxs wrote:

> I decided to drill an led hole in my panel too. The lack of led and switch options have
> driven me to have my Tau, Multimix and others punched.
>
> Yesterday , my wife saw me looking at a Dremel drill press for $38 at a Loews and bought
> it for me. I don't know if it is possible or what to get to do it but I figure I can drill a pilot
> hole and them hand ream it out (when my carpenter friend can't cut a super clean 4.98mm
> hole in the thing).
>
> I was planning on using shielded hook up on the outputs, Center to tip. Braid (screen) to
> already bussed ground plane on out jacks. Screen trimmed on pcb end of wire. Twisted
> twos or threes of stranded hookup on everything else.
>
>
>> i bored the LED hole out today with a Unibit on a handdrill and it
>> went smooth as anything.
>>
>> has anyone completed their tau pipe modules yet?
>> im waiting for a 100k log pot to arrive.
>> and i have yet to do the front panel wiring.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, "adaaxs" <wonggster@> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I have a Sears hand drill that is a two speed, geared job, amazing
>>>
>> bit of analog
>>
>>> toolmaking. It is a very fine and effective tool, better than many
>>>
>> of the electrics I have
>>
>>> had.
>>>
>>> gw
>>>
>>>> I do have an actual hand drill that belonged to my father. It has
>>>> wooden handles and a crank on the side like an eggbeater. I use to
>>>> drill PCB's, as it can't accidently skip and destroy traces.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> The paint won't chip, either. I make those holes smaller because
>>>>>> individual users can always drill them bigger if they need to, but
>>>>>> we can't drill them smaller : )
>>>>>>
>>>> Indeed :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
>>>>>> easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can
>>>>>> I use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going
>>>>>> to take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
>>>>>>
>>>> You want a variable-spped power drill with a large-enough chuck to
>>>> fit the bits you are using. When I had to drill a bunch of panels,
>>>> including some tricky stuff like the LED holes for a MiniWave, I
>>>> borrowed this massive professional drill press from my next door
>>>> neighbor. Which was much better than using a hand-held power drill,
>>>> but not necessary if you only have to drill a few holes.
>>>>
>>>> Secure it from moving (you can use the mounting holes in the corners
>>>> of the panel to screw it to a board), drill from front of the panel
>>>> so that any damage to the paint is to the back side, and use a
>>>> lubricant such as cutting and tapping spray.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.hotrodmotm.com/drill_howto.htm
>>>>
>>>>
>
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