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Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

2003-05-10 by patemery@sympatico.ca

Hi Don!

Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a 1969 model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray with clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined from stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I got the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on the bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I replaced the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from Mr.Gasket. I cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This was a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly higher to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the gearbox; steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an aluminium shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It extend past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is a 3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor). There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is the only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for the chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-over Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when it is warm. 
Have a nice week-end.
Pat
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> From: "Don Lattimer" <donlattimer@...>
> Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> 
>

Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

2003-05-10 by hullevad

Hello Pat!

Wire wheel, Florida has LHD 3.0 V6 (Essex) for sale at app. 14.000 usd
restored, supposedly the last made with wooden chassis.

Best Regards

mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <patemery@...>
To: <MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com>; <MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365


> Hi Don!
>
> Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a 1969 model
with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been sandblasted (low
pressure) and painted the common silver-gray with clear coat. The center hub
cap are my design and are machined from stainless steel material. The chrome
wing is bolted to the cap. I got the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to
see stress cracks on the bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on
it so I replaced the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from
Mr.Gasket. I cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear.
This was a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly
higher to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a
full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the gearbox; steel
reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an aluminium shaped to the
countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It extend past the axle and is
bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit floor. 2" stainless steel dual
exhaust pipe are attached to the headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual
exhaust tips. I also fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The
engine is a 3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance
by Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor). There
is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is the only 1969
LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for the chrome trim
around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-over Door Edge Protection
that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when it is warm.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Have a nice week-end.
> Pat
> >
> > From: "Don Lattimer" <donlattimer@...>
> > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> MarcosManiacs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: 3L5365

2003-05-10 by Dave Barton

Welcome Pat, hello everyone
  Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that the 
radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the trunk, its 
not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the frame
rigidity.  What I have done is cut a slot in the area where the 2 
bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where the 
radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that covers this 
slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed the 
channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come out I 
simply remove that channel and access them........the only other 
reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to bolt down 
the body.........
am I seeing that right?
       Cheers Dave #5577    

 








--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, <patemery@s...> wrote:
> Hi Don!
> 
> Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a 1969 
model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been 
sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray with 
clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined from 
stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I got 
the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on the 
bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I replaced 
the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from Mr.Gasket. I 
cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This was 
a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly higher 
to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a 
full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the gearbox; 
steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an aluminium 
shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It extend 
past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit 
floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the 
headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also 
fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is a 
3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by 
Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor). 
There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is the 
only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for the 
chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-over 
Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when it 
is warm. 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> Have a nice week-end.
> Pat
> > 
> > From: "Don Lattimer" <donlattimer@p...>
> > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> > 
> >

Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

2003-05-11 by Jack Myers

Hello Dave
PLEASE don't take this the wrong way.
But why do you feel it necessary to change the design of the radius arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are there to transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for top and bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the twisting of the axle). That is why the arms pass through the body to share out the load on the wood back and forth. The upside is that the securing nuts are in the boot out of harms way (wet and muck).
If I under stand your set up the loading is on screws which in the fullness of time could work loose.
I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And just the chat it is intended .
Best regards Jac
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PM
Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

Welcome Pat, hello everyone
Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that the
radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the trunk, its
not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the frame
rigidity. What I have done is cut a slot in the area where the 2
bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where the
radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that covers this
slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed the
channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come out I
simply remove that channel and access them........the only other
reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to bolt down
the body.........
am I seeing that right?
Cheers Dave #5577










--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
> Hi Don!
>
> Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a 1969
model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been
sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray with
clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined from
stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I got
the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on the
bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I replaced
the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from Mr.Gasket. I
cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This was
a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly higher
to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a
full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the gearbox;
steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an aluminium
shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It extend
past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit
floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the
headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also
fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is a
3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by
Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor).
There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is the
only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for the
chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-over
Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when it
is warm.
> Have a nice week-end.
> Pat
> >
> > From: "Don Lattimer"
> > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> >
> >



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
MarcosManiacs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



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Re: Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

2003-05-11 by patemery@sympatico.ca

Thank you for the information. Regards, Pat ... Hello Pat! Wire wheel, Florida has LHD 3.0 V6 (Essex) for sale at app. 14.000 usd restored, supposedly the last

Re: 3L5365

2003-05-12 by Dave Barton

Hi Jac
  Criticism it is not........I DO understand the purpose of the 
radius rods and I have NOT changed the design in any way....my car 
being a steel chassis car I do not see the purpose of bolting through 
a thin fibreglass panel albeit with a steel strap sandwiched in 
there .......what I have done is eliminated the possibility of not 
being able to get those bolts out in the future because I can now 
drive them out from inside the trunk(if you have ever had to take 
these bolts out on a steel chassis car you will appreciate what I 
have done)..........just a rebuttal thats all!
        Cheers Dave
PS Jac , after rereading your post I don't think you quite got what I 
have done.....the radius rods are still attatched to the chassis with 
through bolts at the origional places, just not through the trunk 
walls........where they did pass through the trunk walls that is 
where I cut a slot(in the fibreglass)and made a channel to cover the 
slot .I origionally thought of this because now I can have a fully 
assembled chassis without the body on the frame.......otherwise I 
would have to wait until the body was on the frame before I could 
attatch the rear radius rods. Bye


--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" <jacob@m...> wrote:
> Hello Dave 
> PLEASE don't take this the wrong way.
> But why do you feel it necessary to change the design of the radius 
arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
> My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are there to 
transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for top 
and bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the twisting 
of the axle). That is why the arms pass through the body to share out 
the load on the wood back and forth. The upside is that the securing 
nuts are in the boot out of harms way (wet and muck).
> If I under stand your set up the loading is on screws which in the 
fullness of time could work loose.
> I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And just the chat it 
is intended .
> Best regards   Jac
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Dave Barton 
>   To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PM
>   Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
> 
> 
>   Welcome Pat, hello everyone
>     Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that the 
>   radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the trunk, 
its 
>   not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the frame
>   rigidity.  What I have done is cut a slot in the area where the 2 
>   bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where the 
>   radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that covers 
this 
>   slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed the 
>   channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come out 
I 
>   simply remove that channel and access them........the only other 
>   reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to bolt 
down 
>   the body.........
>   am I seeing that right?
>          Cheers Dave #5577    
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, <patemery@s...> wrote:
>   > Hi Don!
>   > 
>   > Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a 
1969 
>   model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been 
>   sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray 
with 
>   clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined 
from 
>   stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I 
got 
>   the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on 
the 
>   bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I 
replaced 
>   the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from 
Mr.Gasket. I 
>   cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This 
was 
>   a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly 
higher 
>   to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a 
>   full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the 
gearbox; 
>   steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an 
aluminium 
>   shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It 
extend 
>   past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit 
>   floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the 
>   headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also 
>   fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is 
a 
>   3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by 
>   Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor). 
>   There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is 
the 
>   only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for 
the 
>   chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-
over 
>   Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when 
it 
>   is warm. 
>   > Have a nice week-end.
>   > Pat
>   > > 
>   > > From: "Don Lattimer" <donlattimer@p...>
>   > > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
>   > > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
>   > > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
>   > > 
>   > >
> 
> 
>         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
> 
>              
>        
>        
> 
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>   MarcosManiacs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> 
> 
> 
>   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of 
Service.

Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

2003-05-12 by Jack Myers

Hello Dave
Well there we are then, it was worth the print.
Now I understand. You have to make allowances for an English man. Sounds good to me.
Best regards Jac
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 1:33 AM
Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365


Hi Jac
Criticism it is not........I DO understand the purpose of the
radius rods and I have NOT changed the design in any way....my car
being a steel chassis car I do not see the purpose of bolting through
a thin fibreglass panel albeit with a steel strap sandwiched in
there .......what I have done is eliminated the possibility of not
being able to get those bolts out in the future because I can now
drive them out from inside the trunk(if you have ever had to take
these bolts out on a steel chassis car you will appreciate what I
have done)..........just a rebuttal thats all!
Cheers Dave
PS Jac , after rereading your post I don't think you quite got what I
have done.....the radius rods are still attatched to the chassis with
through bolts at the origional places, just not through the trunk
walls........where they did pass through the trunk walls that is
where I cut a slot(in the fibreglass)and made a channel to cover the
slot .I origionally thought of this because now I can have a fully
assembled chassis without the body on the frame.......otherwise I
would have to wait until the body was on the frame before I could
attatch the rear radius rods. Bye


--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" wrote:
> Hello Dave
> PLEASE don't take this the wrong way.
> But why do you feel it necessary to change the design of the radius
arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
> My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are there to
transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for top
and bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the twisting
of the axle). That is why the arms pass through the body to share out
the load on the wood back and forth. The upside is that the securing
nuts are in the boot out of harms way (wet and muck).
> If I under stand your set up the loading is on screws which in the
fullness of time could work loose.
> I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And just the chat it
is intended .
> Best regards Jac
> ----- Original Message -----
> ; From: Dave Barton
> To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PM
> Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
>
>
> Welcome Pat, hello everyone
> Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that the
> radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the trunk,
its
> not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the frame
> rigidity. What I have done is cut a slot in the area where the 2
> bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where the
> ; radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that covers
this
> slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed the
> channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come out
I
> simply remove that channel and access them........the only other
> reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to bolt
down
> the body.........
> am I seeing that right?
> Cheers Dave #5577
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
> > Hi Don!
> >
> > Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a
1969
> model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been
> sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray
with
> clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined
from
> stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I
got
> the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on
the
> bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I
replaced
> ; the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from
Mr.Gasket. I
> cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This
was
> a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly
higher
> to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a
> full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the
gearbox;
> steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an
aluminium
> shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It
extend
> past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit
> floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the
> headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also
> fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is
a
> 3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by
>; Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor).
> There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is
the
> only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for
the
> ; chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-
over
> Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when
it
> is warm.
> ; > Have a nice week-end.
> > Pat
> > >
> > > From: "Don Lattimer"
> > > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> > > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> > >
> > >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> MarcosManiacs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
MarcosManiacs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Re: 3L5365

2003-05-12 by Dave Barton

Jac
  No problem.......I occasionally do not explain myself properly , 
ask my ex wife.........actually I came to Canada from Birminbham 27 
years ago 
    Cheers DAVE #5577


--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" <jacob@m...> wrote:
> Hello Dave
> Well there we are then, it was worth the print.
> Now I understand. You have to make allowances for an English man. 
Sounds good to me.
> Best regards  Jac
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Dave Barton 
>   To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 1:33 AM
>   Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
> 
> 
> 
>   Hi Jac
>     Criticism it is not........I DO understand the purpose of the 
>   radius rods and I have NOT changed the design in any way....my 
car 
>   being a steel chassis car I do not see the purpose of bolting 
through 
>   a thin fibreglass panel albeit with a steel strap sandwiched in 
>   there .......what I have done is eliminated the possibility of 
not 
>   being able to get those bolts out in the future because I can now 
>   drive them out from inside the trunk(if you have ever had to take 
>   these bolts out on a steel chassis car you will appreciate what I 
>   have done)..........just a rebuttal thats all!
>           Cheers Dave
>   PS Jac , after rereading your post I don't think you quite got 
what I 
>   have done.....the radius rods are still attatched to the chassis 
with 
>   through bolts at the origional places, just not through the trunk 
>   walls........where they did pass through the trunk walls that is 
>   where I cut a slot(in the fibreglass)and made a channel to cover 
the 
>   slot .I origionally thought of this because now I can have a 
fully 
>   assembled chassis without the body on the frame.......otherwise I 
>   would have to wait until the body was on the frame before I could 
>   attatch the rear radius rods. Bye
> 
> 
>   --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" <jacob@m...> 
wrote:
>   > Hello Dave 
>   > PLEASE don't take this the wrong way.
>   > But why do you feel it necessary to change the design of the 
radius 
>   arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
>   > My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are there to 
>   transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for 
top 
>   and bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the 
twisting 
>   of the axle). That is why the arms pass through the body to share 
out 
>   the load on the wood back and forth. The upside is that the 
securing 
>   nuts are in the boot out of harms way (wet and muck).
>   > If I under stand your set up the loading is on screws which in 
the 
>   fullness of time could work loose.
>   > I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And just the chat 
it 
>   is intended .
>   > Best regards   Jac
>   >   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   >   From: Dave Barton 
>   >   To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com 
>   >   Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PM
>   >   Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
>   > 
>   > 
>   >   Welcome Pat, hello everyone
>   >     Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that 
the 
>   >   radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the 
trunk, 
>   its 
>   >   not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the 
frame
>   >   rigidity.  What I have done is cut a slot in the area where 
the 2 
>   >   bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where 
the 
>   >   radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that 
covers 
>   this 
>   >   slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed 
the 
>   >   channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come 
out 
>   I 
>   >   simply remove that channel and access them........the only 
other 
>   >   reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to 
bolt 
>   down 
>   >   the body.........
>   >   am I seeing that right?
>   >          Cheers Dave #5577    
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   > 
>   >   --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, <patemery@s...> wrote:
>   >   > Hi Don!
>   >   > 
>   >   > Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is 
a 
>   1969 
>   >   model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been 
>   >   sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray 
>   with 
>   >   clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined 
>   from 
>   >   stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the 
cap. I 
>   got 
>   >   the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks 
on 
>   the 
>   >   bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I 
>   replaced 
>   >   the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from 
>   Mr.Gasket. I 
>   >   cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. 
This 
>   was 
>   >   a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge 
slightly 
>   higher 
>   >   to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also 
added a 
>   >   full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the 
>   gearbox; 
>   >   steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an 
>   aluminium 
>   >   shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. 
It 
>   extend 
>   >   past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk 
cockpit 
>   >   floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to 
the 
>   >   headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I 
also 
>   >   fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The 
engine is 
>   a 
>   >   3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 
performance by 
>   >   Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted 
MacGregor). 
>   >   There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that 
it is 
>   the 
>   >   only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as 
for 
>   the 
>   >   chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-
>   over 
>   >   Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best 
when 
>   it 
>   >   is warm. 
>   >   > Have a nice week-end.
>   >   > Pat
>   >   > > 
>   >   > > From: "Don Lattimer" <donlattimer@p...>
>   >   > > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
>   >   > > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
>   >   > > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
>   >   > > 
>   >   > >
>   > 
>   > 
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>   > 
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