Jac
No problem.......I occasionally do not explain myself properly ,
ask my ex wife.........actually I came to Canada from Birminbham 27
years ago
Cheers DAVE #5577
--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" <jacob@m...> wrote:
> Hello Dave
> Well there we are then, it was worth the print.
> Now I understand. You have to make allowances for an English man.
Sounds good to me.
> Best regards Jac
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave Barton
> To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 1:33 AM
> Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
>
>
>
> Hi Jac
> Criticism it is not........I DO understand the purpose of the
> radius rods and I have NOT changed the design in any way....my
car
> being a steel chassis car I do not see the purpose of bolting
through
> a thin fibreglass panel albeit with a steel strap sandwiched in
> there .......what I have done is eliminated the possibility of
not
> being able to get those bolts out in the future because I can now
> drive them out from inside the trunk(if you have ever had to take
> these bolts out on a steel chassis car you will appreciate what I
> have done)..........just a rebuttal thats all!
> Cheers Dave
> PS Jac , after rereading your post I don't think you quite got
what I
> have done.....the radius rods are still attatched to the chassis
with
> through bolts at the origional places, just not through the trunk
> walls........where they did pass through the trunk walls that is
> where I cut a slot(in the fibreglass)and made a channel to cover
the
> slot .I origionally thought of this because now I can have a
fully
> assembled chassis without the body on the frame.......otherwise I
> would have to wait until the body was on the frame before I could
> attatch the rear radius rods. Bye
>
>
> --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" <jacob@m...>
wrote:
> > Hello Dave
> > PLEASE don't take this the wrong way.
> > But why do you feel it necessary to change the design of the
radius
> arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
> > My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are there to
> transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for
top
> and bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the
twisting
> of the axle). That is why the arms pass through the body to share
out
> the load on the wood back and forth. The upside is that the
securing
> nuts are in the boot out of harms way (wet and muck).
> > If I under stand your set up the loading is on screws which in
the
> fullness of time could work loose.
> > I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And just the chat
it
> is intended .
> > Best regards Jac
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dave Barton
> > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PM
> > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
> >
> >
> > Welcome Pat, hello everyone
> > Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that
the
> > radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the
trunk,
> its
> > not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the
frame
> > rigidity. What I have done is cut a slot in the area where
the 2
> > bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where
the
> > radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that
covers
> this
> > slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed
the
> > channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come
out
> I
> > simply remove that channel and access them........the only
other
> > reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to
bolt
> down
> > the body.........
> > am I seeing that right?
> > Cheers Dave #5577
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, <patemery@s...> wrote:
> > > Hi Don!
> > >
> > > Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is
a
> 1969
> > model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been
> > sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray
> with
> > clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined
> from
> > stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the
cap. I
> got
> > the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks
on
> the
> > bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I
> replaced
> > the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from
> Mr.Gasket. I
> > cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear.
This
> was
> > a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge
slightly
> higher
> > to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also
added a
> > full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the
> gearbox;
> > steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an
> aluminium
> > shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it.
It
> extend
> > past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk
cockpit
> > floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to
the
> > headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I
also
> > fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The
engine is
> a
> > 3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2
performance by
> > Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted
MacGregor).
> > There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that
it is
> the
> > only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as
for
> the
> > chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-
> over
> > Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best
when
> it
> > is warm.
> > > Have a nice week-end.
> > > Pat
> > > >
> > > > From: "Don Lattimer" <donlattimer@p...>
> > > > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> > > > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
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