Hello Dave
PLEASE don't take this the wrong
way.
But why do you feel it necessary to change the
design of the radius arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are
there to transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for top and
bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the twisting of the axle).
That is why the arms pass through the body to share out the load on the wood
back and forth. The upside is that the securing nuts are in the boot out of
harms way (wet and muck).
If I under stand your set up the loading is on
screws which in the fullness of time could work loose.
I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And
just the chat it is intended .
Best regards Jac
----- Original Message -----From: Dave BartonSent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PMSubject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365Welcome Pat, hello everyone
Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that the
radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the trunk, its
not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the frame
rigidity. What I have done is cut a slot in the area where the 2
bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where the
radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that covers this
slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed the
channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come out I
simply remove that channel and access them........the only other
reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to bolt down
the body.........
am I seeing that right?
Cheers Dave #5577
--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
> Hi Don!
>
> Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a 1969
model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been
sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray with
clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined from
stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I got
the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on the
bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I replaced
the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from Mr.Gasket. I
cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This was
a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly higher
to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a
full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the gearbox;
steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an aluminium
shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It extend
past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit
floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the
headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also
fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is a
3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by
Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor).
There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is the
only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for the
chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-over
Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when it
is warm.
> Have a nice week-end.
> Pat
> >
> > From: "Don Lattimer"
> > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> >
> >
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