Homebrew PCBs

The current thread about the mini metal shear triggered my curiosity:
what do you guys think its the best way to cut a pcb? right now I use a
hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
must say.

bye
Alessio

If you have a good hacksaw, and aren't making a very long cut, it's not too
bad. I much prefer the bench shear.

If you don't want to invest in a bench shear, you can go with the handheld
nibblers, like I did. The ones I posted about above are totally lo-tech. If
you are doing a lot of PCBs, get an automatic version.

You have many options there.

If you have a shop air compressor, you can get a pneumatic tools with punch
nibbler and shear style heads.

Punch Nibbler =
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46061
Shears =
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98833

In direct contrast to the manual hand tools, the opposite rules of thumb
apply. If you want straight lines, get the shear style of the power tool.
Use the power nibbler for curves.

If you don't have shop air, you can get electric versions of both styles as
well.

Punch Nibbler =
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92148
Shears =
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92115


They even have some fancy contraptions that fit on your normal drill, and
turn it into a nibbler.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91739

Nice.

Like I said, if you're doing more than a few inches at a time, or lots of
boards on a regular basis, an automatic version is much better. If you go
with the manual power versions, PACE YOURSELF. My hand cramped for a full
day after the first time I dove into some old VCR PCBs with my new nibblers.
I was a nibbling fool for three hours, and payed for it later. Seriously, it
hurt to tie my shoes the next day. So take it easy, and go slow, and take
LOTS of breaks.



Oh, and I will never use a cutoff wheel to cut a PC board. Fiberglass dust
is even more obnoxious than sawdust, because not only does it make a HUGE,
hard to clean up mess, it itches like hell when it gets on you. One of the
most compelling reasons to go with a bench shear, power shears, or a punch
nibbler, over any type of reciprocating or rotating tool, is that there is
ZERO dust.

Maybe it's just me, but as a staunch supporter of safety glasses for almost
anything except reading in my workshop, I find it uncontrollably irritating
that cutting tool dust will circumvent my glasses every time, and find it's
way into my eye.  I've got a pair of swimming goggles in the drawer by my
die grinder now. Permanently.



On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 8:15 PM, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...>wrote:

>
>
> The current thread about the mini metal shear triggered my curiosity:
> what do you guys think its the best way to cut a pcb? right now I use a
> hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
> must say.
>
> bye
> Alessio
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Sun, 12 Apr 2009 20:15:29 -0700, you wrote:

If you want a straight cut, then the easiest way is a metal shear.

If you need a slot, or an inset, then I'd use a carbide rasp in a
mill, if I had access to one.  (I do...).

Harvey

>The current thread about the mini metal shear triggered my curiosity:
>what do you guys think its the best way to cut a pcb? right now I use a
>hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
>must say.
>
>bye
>Alessio
>

Harvey White wrote:

> If you want a straight cut, then the easiest way is a metal shear.

Where can I get a cheap one?

bye
Alessio

Mike Oyama wrote:

> If you don't want to invest in a bench shear, you can go with the handheld
> nibblers, like I did. The ones I posted about above are totally lo-tech. If
> you are doing a lot of PCBs, get an automatic version.

I don't do too much; thanks for the links! I will evaluate if it is
convenient for me to buy a tool or just go with the hacksaw.

bye
as

On Sun, 12 Apr 2009 20:55:32 -0700, you wrote:

>Harvey White wrote:
>
>> If you want a straight cut, then the easiest way is a metal shear.
>
>Where can I get a cheap one?

If in the US, then Harbor Freight or the equivalent.  If outside the
US, then I don't know.  You might want to look at the local importer
of Chinese metalworking tools.  Cheapest would be about 12 inches, it
goes up from there.  

Harvey

>
>bye
>Alessio

Harvey White wrote:

> If in the US, then Harbor Freight or the equivalent.  If outside the

The cheapest one I can find is:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90757

140 bucks :( a little bit too much for the number of boards I do.

bye
Alessio

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:
> right now I use a
> hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
> must say.
> 
I don't do very many but here is my method:
I clamp the board in my vise between to pieces
of 1 X 4 lumber. I then score it with the tool called a
plexiglass cut tool. Search for the name to see it.
You can then hit it with the heel of your hand
and it breaks clean.
I have done both single and double sided board.

Louis

I use 1/32" FR-4 and cut it with household scissors. Cutting though copper is not the greatest for the scissor blades but I haven't ruined one yet. Scissors are cheap anyway.

I imagine a chop style paper cutter would do for perfectly straight lines.

Regards,
Royce


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lwr_2000" <k5fzm@...> wrote:

>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@> wrote:
> > right now I use a
> > hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
> > must say.
> > 
> I don't do very many but here is my method:
> I clamp the board in my vise between to pieces
> of 1 X 4 lumber. I then score it with the tool called a
> plexiglass cut tool. Search for the name to see it.
> You can then hit it with the heel of your hand
> and it breaks clean.
> I have done both single and double sided board.
> 
> Louis
>

Hello All,

I agree that a shear is the better way.  Along the lines of nibbling tools, I have tried the imports (to the USA) and found them more difficult to use compared to the Adel tool (http://www.adelnibbler.com/).

While the initial cost is higher, I feel that it is a good investment.
I've had two Adel tools for a couple of decades and will keem them both.
N5LXK


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:

>
> The current thread about the mini metal shear triggered my curiosity:
> what do you guys think its the best way to cut a pcb? right now I use a
> hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
> must say.
> 
> bye
> Alessio
>

Hello All,

I agree that a shear is the better way.  Along the lines of nibbling tools, I have tried the imports (to the USA) and found them more difficult to use compared to the Adel tool (http://www.adelnibbler.com/).

While the initial cost is higher, I feel that it is a good investment.
I've had two Adel tools for a couple of decades and will keem them both.
N5LXK


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:

>
> The current thread about the mini metal shear triggered my curiosity:
> what do you guys think its the best way to cut a pcb? right now I use a
> hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
> must say.
> 
> bye
> Alessio
>

A tile cutting saw works fine.  And the water keeps the fiberglass
particles out of the air and your lungs.

--- On Sun, 4/12/09, Mike Oyama <mikesb0x0fm4il2@...> wrote:

From: Mike Oyama <mikesb0x0fm4il2@...>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting PCB
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 10:44 PM








If you have a good hacksaw, and aren't making a very long cut, it's not too
bad. I much prefer the bench shear.

If you don't want to invest in a bench shear, you can go with the handheld
nibblers, like I did. The ones I posted about above are totally lo-tech. If
you are doing a lot of PCBs, get an automatic version.

You have many options there.

If you have a shop air compressor, you can get a pneumatic tools with punch
nibbler and shear style heads.

Punch Nibbler =
http://www.harborfr eight.com/ cpi/ctaf/ displayitem. taf?Itemnumber= 46061
Shears =
http://www.harborfr eight.com/ cpi/ctaf/ displayitem. taf?Itemnumber= 98833

In direct contrast to the manual hand tools, the opposite rules of thumb
apply. If you want straight lines, get the shear style of the power tool.
Use the power nibbler for curves.

If you don't have shop air, you can get electric versions of both styles as
well.

Punch Nibbler =
http://www.harborfr eight.com/ cpi/ctaf/ displayitem. taf?Itemnumber= 92148
Shears =
http://www.harborfr eight.com/ cpi/ctaf/ displayitem. taf?Itemnumber= 92115

They even have some fancy contraptions that fit on your normal drill, and
turn it into a nibbler.

http://www.harborfr eight.com/ cpi/ctaf/ displayitem. taf?Itemnumber= 91739

Nice.

Like I said, if you're doing more than a few inches at a time, or lots of
boards on a regular basis, an automatic version is much better. If you go
with the manual power versions, PACE YOURSELF. My hand cramped for a full
day after the first time I dove into some old VCR PCBs with my new nibblers.
I was a nibbling fool for three hours, and payed for it later. Seriously, it
hurt to tie my shoes the next day. So take it easy, and go slow, and take
LOTS of breaks.

Oh, and I will never use a cutoff wheel to cut a PC board. Fiberglass dust
is even more obnoxious than sawdust, because not only does it make a HUGE,
hard to clean up mess, it itches like hell when it gets on you. One of the
most compelling reasons to go with a bench shear, power shears, or a punch
nibbler, over any type of reciprocating or rotating tool, is that there is
ZERO dust.

Maybe it's just me, but as a staunch supporter of safety glasses for almost
anything except reading in my workshop, I find it uncontrollably irritating
that cutting tool dust will circumvent my glasses every time, and find it's
way into my eye. I've got a pair of swimming goggles in the drawer by my
die grinder now. Permanently.

On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 8:15 PM, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@manoweb. com>wrote:

>
>
> The current thread about the mini metal shear triggered my curiosity:
> what do you guys think its the best way to cut a pcb? right now I use a
> hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
> must say.
>
> bye
> Alessio
>
> 
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

















      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I normally use a bandsaw.  For straight cuts use the fence.

On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 8:15 PM, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:
> The current thread about the mini metal shear triggered my curiosity:
> what do you guys think its the best way to cut a pcb? right now I use a
> hand saw and/or a dremel with cutting disc. I am not very satisfied I
> must say.
>
> bye
> Alessio
>

-- 
Erik L. Knise
Pacific Shipping Company
Seattle, WA

Harvey White wrote:

> If in the US, then Harbor Freight or the equivalent.  If outside the
> US, then I don't know.  You might want to look at the local importer

At the end, I have bought a nibbler but I am not satisfied, it is not
straight enough. I may very well be the problem :) I've never used a
nibbler before.

Anyway, I used the "score and snap" method:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65702
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37844
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34866

I clamp the square and the PCB on the workbench, then I use the utility
knife to score repeatedly the PCB (both sides is better).

Then, it's quite easy to snap the unwanted piece away with pliers. A
file or sandpaper will make the edge better.

bye
Alessio

Harvey, could you please remove the [SPAM] that your filter is adding to the subject line?

I think if you whitelist the group address, it should stop adding that.

I'm sending this to the list as a reminder to everyone.

Thank you,
Steve Greenfield
listowner Homebrew_PCBs


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

>
> On Sun, 12 Apr 2009 20:55:32 -0700, you wrote:
> 
> >Harvey White wrote:
> >
> >> If you want a straight cut, then the easiest way is a metal shear.
> >
> >Where can I get a cheap one?
> 
> If in the US, then Harbor Freight or the equivalent.  If outside the
> US, then I don't know.  You might want to look at the local importer
> of Chinese metalworking tools.  Cheapest would be about 12 inches, it
> goes up from there.  
> 
> Harvey
> 
> >
> >bye
> >Alessio
>

I just made a tiny board to play with SMD LEDs (http://twitpic.com/ 
3fiy2 ). Thanks to this thread I just used my handy cheap tinsnips,  
and they made pretty short work of the 1/16 fibreglass - the only real  
problem was that the cut starts straight, but suddenly veers off when  
the "push" from the two sides of the PCB passes some threshold.

But it beats the pants of my previous hacksaw efforts.

PG

On 19/04/2009, at 12:02 PM, Alessio Sangalli wrote:

>
>
> Harvey White wrote:
>
> > If in the US, then Harbor Freight or the equivalent. If outside the
> > US, then I don't know. You might want to look at the local importer
>
> At the end, I have bought a nibbler but I am not satisfied, it is not
> straight enough. I may very well be the problem :) I've never used a
> nibbler before.
>

There are special panel shears that reduce the problem.

ST

On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 1:49 AM, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote:
> I just made a tiny board to play with SMD LEDs (http://twitpic.com/
> 3fiy2 ). Thanks to this thread I just used my handy cheap tinsnips,
> and they made pretty short work of the 1/16 fibreglass - the only real
> problem was that the cut starts straight, but suddenly veers off when
> the "push" from the two sides of the PCB passes some threshold.
>
> But it beats the pants of my previous hacksaw efforts.
>
> PG
>