Homebrew PCBs

I am going to get started on a new project that requires very small 
PCB's.  As the subject states - what's the best method of cutting PCB's 
to the size listed here - (3" x .1").  These will be used in a non-
electronic project.

I will be using single sided PCB's at .062" thick.

I am thinking of using one of those large office paper cutters (the 
ones that look like they have a 3 foot lawn mower blade as a cutter!) 
as the board will be less than 2mm thick.

I understand that PCB's can dull blades quickly, but this cutter is one 
that has been deemed obsolete.

Any thoughts?  I read the posts about using scroll saws, routers, etc.  
I was thinking that as my boards would be very thin, my method would 
work.  The only catch would be that I would need very straight cuts, no 
wandering edges.

Greg,
     If you are willing to invest in tools, here is a mini table saw that will work for this application.
  http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50304
   
  same link here
  http://tinyurl.com/5nnhy
   
  Kim
  

Greg Codori <greg_codori@...> wrote:
  I am going to get started on a new project that requires very small 
PCB's. As the subject states - what's the best method of cutting PCB's 
to the size listed here - (3" x .1"). These will be used in a non-
electronic project.

I will be using single sided PCB's at .062" thick.

I am thinking of using one of those large office paper cutters (the 
ones that look like they have a 3 foot lawn mower blade as a cutter!) 
as the board will be less than 2mm thick.

I understand that PCB's can dull blades quickly, but this cutter is one 
that has been deemed obsolete.

Any thoughts? I read the posts about using scroll saws, routers, etc. 
I was thinking that as my boards would be very thin, my method would 
work. The only catch would be that I would need very straight cuts, no 
wandering edges.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kim Vellore <kimvellore@...> wrote:
>
> Greg,
>      If you are willing to invest in tools, here is a mini table saw
that will work for this application.
>  
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50304
>    
>   same link here
>   http://tinyurl.com/5nnhy
>    
>   Kim

Just make sure that if you use a saw, that you have proper ventilation
& a mask, and the dust resulting from sawing fiberglass has been
determine d to be carcinogenic.

I say this as someone who formerly used a Dremel tool to cut boards
apart before being educated by an elder (& wiser) colleague.

Having done PCBs down to 0.2" wide, I pass on what I do...

First, I use a scroll saw with a jeweler's blade (0/2) in it.  This is
only about 10 thou thick.  I cut a slot in a piece of 1/4" plywood and
tape the plywood down to the saw's table, this gives me a
zero-clearance place to work so that the board doesn't fall through
the hole, and is supported right up to the blade.

Second, I use metal shears (aka "tin snips") to just cut the pcbs up.
Works best with thinner pcb material.

Paper slicers only work on 0.31 or thinner board, and they don't work
that well with the 0.31 either.  It *can* be done, but it's not
pleasant.  Plus, PCBs are brittle - I would think that cutting
something that narrow, it would crack.

If it were me, I'd use the scroll saw.  If you don't have one, maybe a
small metal shear would be a good investment?

alternatly, if you are on a tight budget like me just use some
scissors- I do all the time to cut pcbs large and as small as ~1cm(2).

 The only problem with using scissors or any similar type of cutting
tool is that sometimes the corners can get a slight 'warp' to them,
but no big deal- just flatten them out again and off you go. m2c,, jd

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kim Vellore <kimvellore@...> wrote:
>
> Greg,
>      If you are willing to invest in tools, here is a mini table saw
that will work for this application.
>  
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50304

>    
>   same link here
>   http://tinyurl.com/5nnhy
>    
>   Kim
>   
> 
> Greg Codori <greg_codori@...> wrote:
>   I am going to get started on a new project that requires very small 
> PCB's. As the subject states - what's the best method of cutting PCB's 
> to the size listed here - (3" x .1"). These will be used in a non-
> electronic project.
> 
> I will be using single sided PCB's at .062" thick.
> 
> I am thinking of using one of those large office paper cutters (the 
> ones that look like they have a 3 foot lawn mower blade as a cutter!) 
> as the board will be less than 2mm thick.
> 
> I understand that PCB's can dull blades quickly, but this cutter is one 
> that has been deemed obsolete.
> 
> Any thoughts? I read the posts about using scroll saws, routers, etc. 
> I was thinking that as my boards would be very thin, my method would 
> work. The only catch would be that I would need very straight cuts, no 
> wandering edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 19:13:55 -0000, you wrote:

>I am going to get started on a new project that requires very small 
>PCB's.  As the subject states - what's the best method of cutting PCB's 
>to the size listed here - (3" x .1").  These will be used in a non-
>electronic project.

Those are quite small.
>
>I will be using single sided PCB's at .062" thick.
>
>I am thinking of using one of those large office paper cutters (the 
>ones that look like they have a 3 foot lawn mower blade as a cutter!) 
>as the board will be less than 2mm thick.
>

My experience is that the cut can wander, which does not help you a
bit.

>I understand that PCB's can dull blades quickly, but this cutter is one 
>that has been deemed obsolete.
>
>Any thoughts?  I read the posts about using scroll saws, routers, etc.  
>I was thinking that as my boards would be very thin, my method would 
>work.  The only catch would be that I would need very straight cuts, no 
>wandering edges.

I have a mill and various pieces of machining equipment, along with a
metal shear that I've adjusted for PC board material.

The shear does best, but the material tends to shift while cutting,
which ends up with a curved edge.

I have had some success with notching a PC board with a carbide
rasp/router bit (made for PCBOARD use) in a vertical mill.  Not sure
what you might to otherwise.

If you have the capability or desire, consider some of the extremely
small carbide bladed table saws (talking a blade 2 to 3 inches in
diameter) and that might do the trick.  

A pc board shear will work, but the work needs *not* to shift during
cutting.

Harvey

>
>

I regularly cut 100 or so of a board 2" x 1/2" and I use exactly that
kind of paper cutting Guillotine, but it's quite old, maybe 30 years
or so, and the blades can be sharpened with a stone.

I am usually using a paper/resin type board, and the problem with
these is that although the table is flat, the blade is curved, and the
section of board that is under the blade, as opposed to on the table,
gets bent enough to splinter the edge.

I finish the boards on a belt sanding machine, or a sanding disc.

I tried a bench fretsaw type machine, but it wouldn't hold a perfectly
straight line, and was too slow for my liking !

I have a table saw, but I am a bit wary of cutting small boards as my
fingers end up too close to the blade for comfort.

I have thought of trying a tile cutting machine to cut the boards, the
small DIY type machines with an abrasive wheel and a water bath..  I'm
not sure how it would turn out, maybe the blade would clog, but it's
got to be worth a try...  Advantages include... it is hard to cut your
fingers on them..   and there would be no dust, as the water bath
takes care of that.

I have one in the workshop,  maybe I'll give it a try!

Chris 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Greg Codori" <greg_codori@...>
wrote:

>
> I am going to get started on a new project that requires very small 
> PCB's.  As the subject states - what's the best method of cutting PCB's 
> to the size listed here - (3" x .1").  These will be used in a non-
> electronic project.
> 
> I will be using single sided PCB's at .062" thick.
> 
> I am thinking of using one of those large office paper cutters (the 
> ones that look like they have a 3 foot lawn mower blade as a cutter!) 
> as the board will be less than 2mm thick.
> 
> I understand that PCB's can dull blades quickly, but this cutter is one 
> that has been deemed obsolete.
> 
> Any thoughts?  I read the posts about using scroll saws, routers, etc.  
> I was thinking that as my boards would be very thin, my method would 
> work.  The only catch would be that I would need very straight cuts, no 
> wandering edges.
>

>
>I am usually using a paper/resin type board,

Try to heat a little with a hair dryer that paper/resin to get better results.
Cristian

Chris Horne <chris@...> wrote:                               I regularly cut 100 or so of a board 2" x 1/2" and I use exactly that
 kind of paper cutting Guillotine, but it's quite old, maybe 30 years
 or so, and the blades can be sharpened with a stone.
 
 I am usually using a paper/resin type board, and the problem with
 these is that although the table is flat, the blade is curved, and the
 section of board that is under the blade, as opposed to on the table,
 gets bent enough to splinter the edge.
 
 I finish the boards on a belt sanding machine, or a sanding disc.
 
 I tried a bench fretsaw type machine, but it wouldn't hold a perfectly
 straight line, and was too slow for my liking !
 
 I have a table saw, but I am a bit wary of cutting small boards as my
 fingers end up too close to the blade for comfort.
 
 I have thought of trying a tile cutting machine to cut the boards, the
 small DIY type machines with an abrasive wheel and a water bath..  I'm
 not sure how it would turn out, maybe the blade would clog, but it's
 got to be worth a try...  Advantages include... it is hard to cut your
 fingers on them..   and there would be no dust, as the water bath
 takes care of that.
 
 I have one in the workshop,  maybe I'll give it a try!
 
 Chris 

I adapted an old sewing machine. First thing was to rip out the mechanism from the underarm and replace the plate where the needle and the tractor thingies go with a plate with a guide slot. Then break off a suitable length of hacksaw blade and braze it to a piece of steel rod of the same diameter as the needle, file one side flat so it fits in the holder. The saw needs to be long enough to always stay in the slot. A bit slow but otherwise works pretty well, even with fiber glass boards.

- YD.


 





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Seems what was described in the sewing machine adaptation is a lot like
a scroll saw. However, with resin fiberglass boards I always prefer a
paper shear liked mentioned, if it's small enough, or just score a few
times on either side with a straightedge and utility knife, then snap
right off in hands, a little finish sanding with a piech of 220grit
paper glued to a scrap of MDF.

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of YD
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 9:54 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: cutting SMALL! PCB's

 



Chris Horne <chris@spiyda. <mailto:chris%40spiyda.com> com> wrote: I
regularly cut 100 or so of a board 2" x 1/2" and I use exactly that
kind of paper cutting Guillotine, but it's quite old, maybe 30 years
or so, and the blades can be sharpened with a stone.

I am usually using a paper/resin type board, and the problem with
these is that although the table is flat, the blade is curved, and the
section of board that is under the blade, as opposed to on the table,
gets bent enough to splinter the edge.

I finish the boards on a belt sanding machine, or a sanding disc.

I tried a bench fretsaw type machine, but it wouldn't hold a perfectly
straight line, and was too slow for my liking !

I have a table saw, but I am a bit wary of cutting small boards as my
fingers end up too close to the blade for comfort.

I have thought of trying a tile cutting machine to cut the boards, the
small DIY type machines with an abrasive wheel and a water bath.. I'm
not sure how it would turn out, maybe the blade would clog, but it's
got to be worth a try... Advantages include... it is hard to cut your
fingers on them.. and there would be no dust, as the water bath
takes care of that.

I have one in the workshop, maybe I'll give it a try!

Chris 

I adapted an old sewing machine. First thing was to rip out the
mechanism from the underarm and replace the plate where the needle and
the tractor thingies go with a plate with a guide slot. Then break off a
suitable length of hacksaw blade and braze it to a piece of steel rod of
the same diameter as the needle, file one side flat so it fits in the
holder. The saw needs to be long enough to always stay in the slot. A
bit slow but otherwise works pretty well, even with fiber glass boards.

- YD.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Greg,

My $0.02...

Since your strips are only a 0.1" wide, you'll want a method that 
minimizes waste.

A sheet metal shear would be ideal.  Harbor Freight has one that 
will handle 8" wide, 1/16" thick material for around $125.

I've tried numerous methods for cutting 1/16" copper clad and none 
were as accurate, clean, and easy as the shear...

I cut some scraps to a similar size for someone who was using them 
for model railroad ties.

Regards,
Dennis

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Greg Codori" 
<greg_codori@...> wrote:
> ... what's the best method of cutting PCB's 
> to the size listed here - (3" x .1").  These will be used in a non-
> electronic project.
> 
> I will be using single sided PCB's at .062" thick.
> 
> ... The only catch would be that I would need very straight cuts, 
no 
> wandering edges.
>