Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Which Drill stand for Proxxon FBS 115/E?
2014-05-18 by Peter Johansson
On Sun, May 18, 2014 at 10:09 AM, kbyrne10@yahoo.com [Homebrew_PCBs]
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2014-05-18 by Peter Johansson
On Sun, May 18, 2014 at 10:09 AM, kbyrne10@yahoo.com [Homebrew_PCBs]
2014-05-18 by kbyrne10@...
I have a different solution that has been recomended to me as professional home hobbiest. On Jameco Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor
2014-05-18 by Peter Johansson
... more with the proxxon collets. What was causing the bits to break? Were you using non-proxxon collets? I too just built a quick and dirty stand -- mostly
2014-05-18 by brane2
... I have a couple of MB140/S and they work perfect for me. I used it with IB/E ( old model with aluminuim front), but I m convinced it should work nice with
2014-05-18 by Stefan Trethan
I use a homemade stand (pivoting design). The drills break only due to operator error, runout is not a problem any more with the proxxon collets. Actually I
2014-05-18 by Brett Polivka
Hi Geoff, I have a MB 140/S that I use with a Micromot 50/EF, and it works fantastically with carbide bits. I don’t have any experience with the MB 200, so I
2014-05-18 by lilacbarn@...
For those who use the Proxxon Rotary tools for drilling PCBs. I am going to purchase the Proxxon 115/E to drill PCBs but do not know which drill stand to buy
2014-05-16 by James
On 16/05/14 07:47, Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com ... I use a clothes iron to adhere dry film on boards smaller than the iron, on a very cool setting,
2014-05-15 by Peter Johansson
... liquid stuff, very messy, hard to get a good smooth surface without bubbles, exposure time varies radically with colour, thickness of application etc. ...
2014-05-15 by palciatore@...
Like the surface flatness or lack of it, the adhesion of the copper to the backing will vary with different types and brands of copper clad. I have seen some
2014-05-15 by palciatore@...
Most boards are made with fiberglass but an internet search for thin PCB material instantly yielded over two million results. I am sure that somewhere in
2014-05-15 by DJ Delorie
Like James said, it s expensive and difficult to get. Most of the time I don t bother with the extra step anyway.
2014-05-15 by James
On 15/05/14 20:15, Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com ... That s the theory. The practice is it s a complete PITA to work with the liquid stuff, very
2014-05-15 by Peter Johansson
... Dynamask (or any similar dry film soldermask), while dry film resist is everywhere. Interesting. What about the liquid stuff? I have seen an application
2014-05-15 by James
On 15/05/14 15:45, Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com ... Dynamask film is harder to get and significantly more expensive. Unfortunately nobody in China,
2014-05-15 by Peter Johansson
... Is there a reason you use etch-resist film instead of an solder mask proper? I had been considering getting set up for solder mask as well as Liquid Tin
2014-05-15 by DJ Delorie
Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com [Homebrew_PCBs] ... I like 0603 and 0.5mm pitch myself. But I m that crazy guy that makes insanely small pcbs at
2014-05-15 by Peter Johansson
On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 7:01 PM, DJ Delorie dj@delorie.com ... Oh yes, it was exactly looking at the chemical reactions which prompted me to try HCl as a board
2014-05-14 by James
On 15/05/14 09:20, Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com ... The weave is usually visible to some degree. Remember the copper layer is very thin, so well,
2014-05-14 by DJ Delorie
Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com [Homebrew_PCBs] ... That s because the tarnish is copper *oxide*, and as I mentioned earlier, HCl needs an oxidizer -
2014-05-14 by Boman33
Peter, FR4 copper plated should be perfectly flat. If bare board, it still should be flat but you can sometimes see that internal structure. Bertho From: Peter
2014-05-14 by Peter Johansson
I just received my first order of epoxy/glass copper clad (thus far I have been using 30+ year old phenolic) and the weave pattern is from the glass is *very*
2014-05-14 by DJ Delorie
Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com [Homebrew_PCBs] ... Right, initially you need the H2O2 because pure HCl will not etch copper, you need a separate
2014-05-13 by Peter Johansson
... I don t need fiberglass, but I have not found a source for thin, non-fiberglass board ... At the suggestion of others I have investigated this. It turns
2014-05-13 by Paul Alciatore
Do you really need a fiberglass backed board? There are other materials available that would allow punching with far less problems with punch wear. I would
2014-05-13 by Peter Johansson
... Indeed. I have read that storing in a refrigerator is even better, and 35% solution should be stored in the freezer. A 35% solution should remain liquid
2014-05-13 by DJ Delorie
Note that H2O2 is photo-sensitive, and should be stored in a light-proof container. It will break down over time all by itself. You don t need a *lot* of H2O2
2014-05-13 by Peter Johansson
Welcome aboard! Can you post some photos of your work? On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 3:55 AM, drsvenoleson@yahoo.com [Homebrew_PCBs]
2014-05-13 by Boman33
Mike, I am always interested in higher resolution & better density printers. There are several test pictures available but I made my own to include both the US
2014-05-13 by drsvenoleson@...
Where to begin is a long story in and of itself, but here I go... I ve been doing through hole etching for about 2.5 years now. I work mostly with brass,
2014-05-13 by Boman33
Thanks James, I tried to save the Seychell web page but as you mentioned the browsers thinks the pictures are malware. I had to settle for the PDF file
2014-05-13 by James
this looks a bit dark, I ll add some H202 this is taking a bit long, I ll add some HCl In short, doesn t really matter. H202: The darkness of the colour of
2014-05-13 by Boman33
With the visual/feel method, when the reaction slows down, how do I know if I need to add more HCl or H2O2? Bertho From: James Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014
2014-05-13 by James
On 13/05/14 10:25, Peter Johansson rockets4kids@gmail.com ... FWIW, I use 35% H202 to reoxygenate my CuCl2, 1 cap in about 500ml of the etchant before I start,
2014-05-13 by Peter Johansson
On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 8:14 PM, kabowers@NorthState.net [Homebrew_PCBs] ... Yes, I found that page, along with this one:
2014-05-13 by kabowers@...
... This paper is a good place to start: href= http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/CuCl2.htm Also check old posts in this group; LOTS of
2014-05-12 by Peter Johansson
Thus far I have had great success with toner transfer and CuCl from my very first etch. I did a bunch of PCBs 30 years using a resist pen and FeCl, but these
2014-05-12 by beefyzee@...
Thanks Mark, that s good nitty gritty information, and helps me to clarify in my head how I would approach a manufacturer when/if I m ready to get assembly
2014-05-12 by Mark Harrison
Hi Keith, It really depends on the number of boards you want. If it’s only a couple, a small assembler just needs to know where you got the components, and
2014-05-11 by beefyzee@...
Thanks again everyone. Having read what you guys have told me, been watching a few Youtube videos on SMD soldering since I was last here (been sick since
2014-05-11 by Peter Johansson
On Sun, May 11, 2014 at 2:23 PM, Charles R Patton charles.r.patton@IEEE.ORG [Homebrew_PCBs] ... Thanks for the heads up. I found some cheap single sheets of
2014-05-11 by Charles R Patton
A comment on the question of ... what (if any) are the issues with using thin (0.010 - 0.030 ) PCB material in general? I did a run of an SMT bds about
2014-05-11 by Boman33
Thanks for following up. When I click “Reply” it shows “From” as Homebrew_PCB@yahoogroups.com That is not very useful! The senders name used to be
2014-05-11 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Blame it on the Spammers, they have done it so they can t harvest email addresses. I use the old web based version of Yahoo and can see the senders email
2014-05-11 by Stefan Trethan
Regardless of the cutting method used there should never be any copper near the cut line. Mind that round hand operated punches typically have a pip in the
2014-05-11 by Peter Johansson
On Sat, May 10, 2014 at 10:10 PM, Jean-Paul Louis louijp@yahoo.com ... This is my concern as well. This is part of the reason I want to go with as thin a
2014-05-11 by casy_ch@tbwil.ch
I do not know what you are talking about Yahoo. See your message header which just came in. Jean-Claude ... Betreff: [Homebrew_PCBs] Yahoo problems again
2014-05-11 by Roger Blair
You might try a 5/8 OD diamond thin wall core drill; it may be close enough to 12 ID and I think the FR4 would clear any copper buildup, and likely wear well.
2014-05-11 by Jean-Paul Louis
Peter, YouÆre going to wear your punch very fast as FR4 is loaded with glass which is very abrasive. Unless you can have a very high resistance punch which
2014-05-11 by Boman33
Yahoo changed something so now the sender’s name does not show up in the “From” line. See below: From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com