Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
2016-06-04 by goofy_36@...
I m new around here. So, thanks for the link. True it at best would be really tricky to do double sided. But, looks good if all you need is single sided. I
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2016-06-04 by goofy_36@...
I m new around here. So, thanks for the link. True it at best would be really tricky to do double sided. But, looks good if all you need is single sided. I
2016-06-04 by mosaicmerc@...
I don t think that approach is suitable for double sided boards and , that s almost a requirement these days.
2016-06-03 by Mark Lerman
I know this isn t what you asked, but this
2016-06-02 by Brad
I think the hard part is knowing when it’s finished. I mean, I went 5 minutes+ pressing pretty hard on the iron.. there’ no way to see before you start
2016-06-02 by Brad
I get the heebie jeebies just thinking about messing with hydrocholoric acid again. I remember when we had our pool how nasty that stuff was. Is ferric
2016-06-02 by Bill Verstelle
John I either use photo paper or parchment paper and a laminator. I run it through the laminator about about 7 times then let it cool and peel off the paper.
2016-06-02 by AncelB
The yellow Toner Ebay paper works fine. I also 220 grit sand the copper before applying via the laminator so the toner does a 100% transfer. Don t handle the
2016-06-02 by Paul Mateer
I just got some of that toner xfer paper from eBay, but have not tried it yet...maybe this weekend -- Paul Mateer, AA9GG Elan Engineering Corp.
2016-06-02 by Tony Fishpool
Brad, 80% would suggest that 20% of the board didn’t get hot enough or it didn’t get clean enough. You really don’t need a brush to clean the paper off
2016-06-02 by John Snyder
Bill I am also trying for the first time, how do you do the transfer to the slight etched copper board? John _____ From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
2016-06-02 by Brad
That’s an interesting approach. I’ll have to try that. I’ve now tried inkjet photo paper + cool off in freezer.. no dice. Was way worse than the
2016-06-01 by Bill Verstelle
I use a different approach, I clean the copper with something like Dutch cleaner then I put the board in the acid etchant and the copper will turn darker, just
2016-06-01 by Brad
Yeah both of those things are what I was using. I did use Comet to scrub the board after my second failed attempt at a transfer though. From:
2016-06-01 by Brad
I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag). I then printed
2016-06-01 by Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change
2016-06-01 by jcarlosmor@...
Harvey, Thank you!. Regards.
2016-05-31 by Harvey Altstadter
Adam Seychell s home page can be found here: http://home.exetel.com.au/adam.seychell/ His CuCl2 paper, and a couple of other projects are there Harvey
2016-05-31 by jcarlosmor@...
James, Very wise move. Thank you! Regards.
2016-05-31 by James
I mirrored it as a PDF a while back because of that: http://sparks.gogo.co.nz/seychell.pdf On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 8:07 PM, jcarlosmor@yahoo.com
2016-05-30 by Paul Mateer
I use a ScothBright (green scrubber) pad and nail polish remover (acetone) I have had better success with generic photopaper -- Paul Mateer, AA9GG Elan
2016-05-30 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Brad Try putting the board and paper in the freezer for 20 minutes before you try to peel. Works for me. Malcolm I don t suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
2016-05-30 by Brad
Thanks guys. Yeah, I’m kind of suspicious about my toner here. I’ve noticed before that, say, original HP toner tends to have a more ‘shiny’
2016-05-30 by craigl2@...
The acetone or alcohol should not add any oil or other unwanted organic material to the board. As long as all of the cleaner is removed from the board I m not
2016-05-30 by Kevin Byrne
I found out the hard way origional toner of HP brand worked fine but reman did not.
2016-05-30 by jcarlosmor@...
Hello to eveybody, Does anyone has the same problem I have with the Adam Seychell web site about CuCl2? Although the main page contains almost all of the
2016-05-30 by Tony Fishpool
My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal. The only way you can know is
2016-05-30 by Brad
Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner? I have compatible right now. The only
2016-05-30 by Tony Fishpool
Brad, I completely agree with Craig. No need to use chemicals to clean the board. I use this abrasive block:-
2016-05-30 by craigl2@...
Acetone (or any solvent) will leave behind at least a mono layer of oil or other organic material. This may be your problem as it can lead to poor adhesion of
2016-05-30 by Brad
So I took a run at it. I printed my artwork to magazine pages, then placed on my copper and ironed away. The first attempt failed pretty hard . 5 minutes
2016-05-30 by Russell Shaw
... What dilution of acid with water in terms of volume is that?
2016-05-29 by Norm
The question here has been a replacement for the persulfate. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The term *persulfate* (sometimes known as peroxysulfate)
2016-05-29 by AncelB
Just as an FYI I use Nitric acid, and have been doing so since 1987. Fairly easy to handle at the lowish concentration in the etchant tank. I can handle the
2016-05-29 by Norm
... But mixing vinegar (acetic acid) and salt (sodium chloride) /results/ in HCl ! Just another way of generating a weak solution of it. ! Norm
2016-05-29 by duwaynes@...
I use the Muriatic Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide mixture with 12% Peroxide from a beauty supply store with good success. If you do not want to use the HCL, another
2016-05-29 by Harvey White
... Ok, so then the ammonium persulphate etching works (obviously) different. I m trying to duplicate *that* process without having to buy expensive ammonium
2016-05-29 by Norm
tion. ... Harvy - You really need to get the Adam Sechelle (sp?) article on CuCl etching. It explains the chemistry involved in removing the copper. Just
2016-05-29 by cs6061@...
I started out with Ferric Chloride many years back, worked well but was very messy and stained anything it touched. Never tried to regenerate it but did heat
2016-05-29 by Harvey White
... Thanks, that s what I need. I understand regenerating the etchant. If I supply chloride ions (say from salt), think it will work? I m guessing that the
2016-05-29 by Jean-Paul Louis
Harvey, The hydrogen peroxide alone will NEVER etch copper. it is H2O2 (very strong oxidizer), so the only thing that it could do is to oxidize a thin layer of
2016-05-28 by keith printy
Another thought is possibly oxi clean . it is basically hydrogen peroxide although maybe a bit stronger than the 3% stuff you buy at the drug store From:
2016-05-28 by Harvey White
... I d be using it to boost the O2 concentration of the etchant, which hopefully works, since the peroxide by itself I can see as not being much different
2016-05-28 by Mark Lerman
If you use the Beauty Shop peroxide be aware that the etching is violently exothermic. Lots of heat and fumes. The etching goes very fast. Done in seconds. I
2016-05-28 by Harvey White
... Several things: 1) I ve used ferric chloride, and never again. 2) I already have HCL and peroxide, and use them in a different fixture. 3) I m trying to
2016-05-28 by John Ferrell
Read the MDS. It is pretty safe stuff. About a million years ago I was a Lab Tech and HCl was used to wash ink off our hands. Beauty shop peroxide is about 30%
2016-05-28 by LEON HELLER
When I etched my own boards I used hot ferric chloride. When it started getting slow I used to add a little hydrogen peroxide. I was able to use it
2016-05-28 by Russell Shaw
... If you use air agitation which adds oxygen and add half a cup of HCl to the ferric chloride every few months, the etching will last for years, which is way
2016-05-28 by Harvey White
... The older name is likely derived from popular sources, perhaps the use of the acid in alchemy. The name aqua regia (Nitric and hydrochloric acids) was
2016-05-28 by Harvey White
... This is what I normally do. ... The tank I m trying to use is a commercially made tank that flows the etchant over the board. It uses two heaters and two
2016-05-28 by Harvey White
... Same kind of problem with price, I think. I could only buy it from a chemical supply plant, and it s rather expensive. ... Had used that for years, hard