Homebrew PCBs

Optically the resist looks like the one I used bevore switching to the 
Ordyl, but do you really have to apply it wet??

I belive you went through 25 so small rolls :-) The nice thing about 
this offer in your link is at the sime time also the bad thing about it. 
I mean it's nice that you can buy in such small quantities, but with 
that price ($8 something) you could have bought a whole lot more by 
buying "big" rolls.

I figure you live in a totally different area of the world (US I guess) 
that's why it does not make sense to give you pointers to my suppliers. 
Again, my advice to you is to contact a local board shop and politely 
explain what you do and ask for a pointer to their resist suppliers.

Markus

Chris schrieb:
>
> Thanks I will look for it. Google only got 10 results with only 3 of
> those in English.
>
> I have seen whole rolls of what I buy, but I haven't ordered because
> I don't know if it is an exact match. I get my stuff from here:
> <http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp? 
> <http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?>
> MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83130>
> and have been through about 25 rolls so far.
>
> Chris
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Markus Zingg <homebrew-pcb@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > I use Ordyl Alpha 900, but there are other products around. They
> are
> > used to produce PCBs. You may want to contact a board house near
> you to
> > ask for a local supplyer and what they use. The "problem" with the
> > resist is that you usually must buy two complete rolls. The
> smallest
> > ones tend to be 150m. But if you are a member of a forum or
> something
> > that does the stuff you do (and I get the impression that's the
> case),
> > then you may easily can motivate others to buy a set of rolls for a
> few
> > members. I did a similar thing. I bought two rolls, used one for my
> own
> > needs but sold the other to a group of people thereby cutting my
> costs
> > in half. A roll, when stored in a fridge and when you hand cut
> peaces of
> > it will last ~2 years. Depending on the product, the storeage
> capability
> > depends on the environement temperature (should be below 10 degrees
> > celsius) and in some cases the exposure to oxygene. The good thing
> about
> > the ordyl alpha is that it is not that much critical with regard to
> > oxygene that said it's sufficient to store the roll in the
> fridge. :-)
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Markus
> >
> > Chris schrieb:
> > >
> > > Markus,
> > >
> > > Thanks, I will just stick to Ferric Chloride.
> > >
> > > If it's daytime I expose outside in about 1 minute.
> > >
> > > I am interested in the resist film you mentioned. The stuff I use
> if
> > > from Micro Mark and I think is what people use to sandblast
> images on
> > > glass. Can you post a link to where I can buy what your talking
> about?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Markus Zingg <homebrew-
> pcb@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Chris,
> > > >
> > > > I don't think that you can much optimize your process by
> changeing
> > > the
> > > > etchant. You easily can optimize the etching process itself
> though.
> > > You
> > > > may want to optimize some other steps in your process too:
> > > >
> > > > a) exposure. Use an exposure unit (self built if you want, there
> > > are
> > > > plenty of projects/plans around) That way you expose the stuff
> in
> > > as few
> > > > as 10 seconds. The key factor here is the light source which
> should
> > > be
> > > > ultra violet.
> > > >
> > > > b) The resist you use seems quite odd to me (requiereing wet
> > > > application). There is dry film resist out there which should do
> > > much
> > > > better. Simply laminate that one onto the brass. Should be a
> matter
> > > of
> > > > ~3 minutes and not fuzzing around with water etc.
> > > >
> > > > c) Build a bubble etcher with a heater element in int. That way
> I'm
> > > sure
> > > > you bring down your etching times significantly.
> > > >
> > > > You CAN use alternative etchants (and others here surely will
> give
> > > you
> > > > replies), but be warned that the alternatives are much more
> > > agressive to
> > > > the envireonement or cost significantly more because you can
> only
> > > use
> > > > the mixture for one (or very few) etch process(es). The nice
> thing
> > > about
> > > > Fe3Cl is that it lasts very very long when compared to the
> > > alternatives
> > > > and it's dirt cheap, and is also less dangerous. Other etchants
> are
> > > > extremly agressive to all your metal stuff surrouding the area
> > > where you
> > > > etch. I mean it, you would not be the first one using this stuff
> > > just to
> > > > find out that all of a sudden a lot of things around you get an
> > > instant
> > > > rust layer.... Natriumpersulfat on the other hand is compareably
> > > > expensive and does not last very long.
> > > >
> > > > Just my 2\ufffd
> > > >
> > > > Markus
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>