Homebrew PCBs

Thanks I will look for it. Google only got 10 results with only 3 of 
those in English.

I have seen whole rolls of what I buy, but I haven't ordered because 
I don't know if it is an exact match. I get my stuff from here:
<http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?
MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83130>
and have been through about 25 rolls so far.

Chris

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Markus Zingg <homebrew-pcb@...> 
wrote:
>
> Chris,
> 
> I use Ordyl Alpha 900, but there are other products around. They 
are 
> used to produce PCBs. You may want to contact a board house near 
you to 
> ask for a local supplyer and what they use. The "problem" with the 
> resist is that you usually must buy two complete rolls. The 
smallest 
> ones tend to be 150m. But if you are a member of a forum or 
something 
> that does the stuff you do (and I get the impression that's the 
case), 
> then you may easily can motivate others to buy a set of rolls for a 
few 
> members. I did a similar thing. I bought two rolls, used one for my 
own 
> needs but sold the other to a group of people thereby cutting my 
costs 
> in half. A roll, when stored in a fridge and when you hand cut 
peaces of 
> it will last ~2 years. Depending on the product, the storeage 
capability 
> depends on the environement temperature (should be below 10 degrees 
> celsius) and in some cases the exposure to oxygene. The good thing 
about 
> the ordyl alpha is that it is not that much critical with regard to 
> oxygene that said it's sufficient to store the roll in the 
fridge. :-)
> 
> HTH
> 
> Markus
> 
> Chris schrieb:
> >
> > Markus,
> >
> > Thanks, I will just stick to Ferric Chloride.
> >
> > If it's daytime I expose outside in about 1 minute.
> >
> > I am interested in the resist film you mentioned. The stuff I use 
if
> > from Micro Mark and I think is what people use to sandblast 
images on
> > glass. Can you post a link to where I can buy what your talking 
about?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Chris
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Markus Zingg <homebrew-
pcb@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Chris,
> > >
> > > I don't think that you can much optimize your process by 
changeing
> > the
> > > etchant. You easily can optimize the etching process itself 
though.
> > You
> > > may want to optimize some other steps in your process too:
> > >
> > > a) exposure. Use an exposure unit (self built if you want, there
> > are
> > > plenty of projects/plans around) That way you expose the stuff 
in
> > as few
> > > as 10 seconds. The key factor here is the light source which 
should
> > be
> > > ultra violet.
> > >
> > > b) The resist you use seems quite odd to me (requiereing wet
> > > application). There is dry film resist out there which should do
> > much
> > > better. Simply laminate that one onto the brass. Should be a 
matter
> > of
> > > ~3 minutes and not fuzzing around with water etc.
> > >
> > > c) Build a bubble etcher with a heater element in int. That way 
I'm
> > sure
> > > you bring down your etching times significantly.
> > >
> > > You CAN use alternative etchants (and others here surely will 
give
> > you
> > > replies), but be warned that the alternatives are much more
> > agressive to
> > > the envireonement or cost significantly more because you can 
only
> > use
> > > the mixture for one (or very few) etch process(es). The nice 
thing
> > about
> > > Fe3Cl is that it lasts very very long when compared to the
> > alternatives
> > > and it's dirt cheap, and is also less dangerous. Other etchants 
are
> > > extremly agressive to all your metal stuff surrouding the area
> > where you
> > > etch. I mean it, you would not be the first one using this stuff
> > just to
> > > find out that all of a sudden a lot of things around you get an
> > instant
> > > rust layer.... Natriumpersulfat on the other hand is compareably
> > > expensive and does not last very long.
> > >
> > > Just my 2¢
> > >
> > > Markus
> > >
> >
> >
>