Digital BW, The Print

I'd like to offer mounted fine-art images as one of my products, but I 
don't know much about it. What are the preferred methods for inkjet 
prints?

Hi John;

One nice thing about inkjet papers, especially the heavywight, is 
that you don't need to drymount smaller sizes. Some people hinge the 
window to the backboard, slip the print in and align it then either 
tape the corners down or use corner mounts. Another alternative is 
to tape the print directly to the window matte with low-tack acid 
free artist's tape. I prefer this as it allows some tensioning of 
the print, and ensures it will never be out of alignment. And if 
want to, you can still dry-mount most papers-but why bother?

Steve Karafyllakis

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "John Kantor" 
<jkantor@m...> wrote:
>
> I'd like to offer mounted fine-art images as one of my products, 
but I 
> don't know much about it. What are the preferred methods for 
inkjet 
> prints?
>

I've just mounted my first 24 x 30 inch print onto foamcore using the
tape hinge method.  Results are not satisfactory for this size and
paper (Kodak Pro Glossy paper).  Ripple is evident.  I've got a dry
mounting press but it is not large enough for this size print (unless
I try to dry mount in sections, which seems error prone to me ?).

Any suggestions for other mounting methods for such a large print?
Thanks,
Ken

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven
Karafyllakis" <steve@s...> wrote:

> ...
> One nice thing about inkjet papers, especially the heavywight, is 
> that you don't need to drymount smaller sizes. Some people hinge the 
> window to the backboard, slip the print in and align it then either 
> tape the corners down or use corner mounts.
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "John Kantor" 
> <jkantor@m...> wrote:
> >
> > I'd like to offer mounted fine-art images as one of my products, 
> but I 
> > don't know much about it. What are the preferred methods for 
> inkjet 
> > prints?
> >
>

Hi Ken;

I'm not too surprised it doesn't work at that size; that leaves you 
with sending it out to a photolab for either dry-mounting or cold-
mounting. I would test a smaller finished print in your dry-mount 
press to see how it responds to the heat-if you use a low-temp RC 
tissue it should work. If it doesn't work, look for a place that 
does cold-mounting-there's an adhesive and a vacuum press involved 
(I think-does anyone else have details on this process?)and I have 
no idea what the archival proerties of the adhesive might be. 
Perhaps Greg or Tyler can give us more details on this, along with 
any other methods available?

Steve Karafyllakis

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kenseidman" 
<Seidmank@e...> wrote:
>
> I've just mounted my first 24 x 30 inch print onto foamcore using 
the
> tape hinge method.  Results are not satisfactory for this size and
> paper (Kodak Pro Glossy paper).  Ripple is evident.  I've got a dry
> mounting press but it is not large enough for this size print 
(unless
> I try to dry mount in sections, which seems error prone to me ?).
> 
> Any suggestions for other mounting methods for such a large print?
> Thanks,
> Ken
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven
> Karafyllakis" <steve@s...> wrote:
> > ...
> > One nice thing about inkjet papers, especially the heavywight, 
is 
> > that you don't need to drymount smaller sizes. Some people hinge 
the 
> > window to the backboard, slip the print in and align it then 
either 
> > tape the corners down or use corner mounts.
> > 
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "John 
Kantor" 
> > <jkantor@m...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'd like to offer mounted fine-art images as one of my 
products, 

> > but I 
> > > don't know much about it. What are the preferred methods for 
> > inkjet 
> > > prints?
> > >
> >
>

Ken,

Have you mounted the photo behind glass yet?

I'm sure if you place it in a frame with a good stiff backing board, 
the photo will look great.

I use that stuff peg-board is made of, only it's smooth and doesn't 
have the holes. I forget what the "technical" name is, but I bought 
it at HomeDepot.

Scott

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kenseidman" 
<Seidmank@e...> wrote:
>
> I've just mounted my first 24 x 30 inch print onto foamcore using 
the
> tape hinge method.  Results are not satisfactory for this size and
> paper (Kodak Pro Glossy paper).  Ripple is evident.  I've got a dry
> mounting press but it is not large enough for this size print 
(unless
> I try to dry mount in sections, which seems error prone to me ?).
> 
> Any suggestions for other mounting methods for such a large print?
> Thanks,
> Ken
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven
> Karafyllakis" <steve@s...> wrote:
> > ...
> > One nice thing about inkjet papers, especially the heavywight, is 
> > that you don't need to drymount smaller sizes. Some people hinge 
the 
> > window to the backboard, slip the print in and align it then 
either 
> > tape the corners down or use corner mounts.
> > 
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "John 
Kantor" 
> > <jkantor@m...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'd like to offer mounted fine-art images as one of my 
products, 

> > but I 
> > > don't know much about it. What are the preferred methods for 
> > inkjet 
> > > prints?
> > >
> >
>

--- In 
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "scott_now_coming" 
<scott_now_coming@y...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
> 
> Have you mounted the photo behind glass yet?
> 
> I'm sure if you place it in a frame with a good stiff backing 
board, 
> the photo will look great.
> 
> I use that stuff peg-board is made of, only it's smooth and doesn't 
> have the holes. I forget what the "technical" name is, but I bought 
> it at HomeDepot.
> 
> Scott


Masonite? If not then it is probably MDF particle board, which seems 
to be more glue than wood chip. My brother uses the mDF to make 
speaker cabinets because it is dimensionaly stable, extremely dense, 
and extremely stiff. And since it is an engineered product, you can 
get it in really thick sheets like 1.5 inches. It does dull your 
cutting tools faster than "normal" wood and you really should use a 
good dust mask when cutting it, a real filter would be better.

MDF has a lot of urea formaldehyde in it. There is a version that doesn't,
but is more expensive and not generally available through home centers like
Lowe's and Home Depot. It can't be good for long-term preservation of
prints. Plus it's heavy.

Masonite (or hardboard as it is known generically) may also have the same
issues with outgassing as other woods. Tempered Masonite (the dark brown
stuff) is harder and more dimensionally stable.

I've heard of folks mounting to aluminum and then to mdf or gatorfoam. I
don't know where they get large prints mounted to aluminum, but there is a
product that is used in the display trade that is fairly thin, called
Dibond. I've been looking for a local source to cold-mount to this
substrate, but so far no luck. I'm in the Detroit area, so if anyone has any
suggestions?

Jim

On 1/2/06 7:18 AM, "DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com"
<DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> Subject: Re: Mounting?
> 
> --- In 
> DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "scott_now_coming"
> <scott_now_coming@y...> wrote:
>> 
>> Ken,
>> 
>> Have you mounted the photo behind glass yet?
>> 
>> I'm sure if you place it in a frame with a good stiff backing
> board, 
>> the photo will look great.
>> 
>> I use that stuff peg-board is made of, only it's smooth and doesn't
>> have the holes. I forget what the "technical" name is, but I bought
>> it at HomeDepot.
>> 
>> Scott
> 
> 
> Masonite? If not then it is probably MDF particle board, which seems
> to be more glue than wood chip. My brother uses the mDF to make
> speaker cabinets because it is dimensionaly stable, extremely dense,
> and extremely stiff. And since it is an engineered product, you can
> get it in really thick sheets like 1.5 inches. It does dull your
> cutting tools faster than "normal" wood and you really should use a
> good dust mask when cutting it, a real filter would be better.

I like the idea of aluminium, but I haven't been able to find a 
source who does this, either.

Scott

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, James Parker 
<dakota.kid@m...> wrote:
>
> MDF has a lot of urea formaldehyde in it. There is a version that 
doesn't,
> but is more expensive and not generally available through home 
centers like
> Lowe's and Home Depot. It can't be good for long-term preservation 
of
> prints. Plus it's heavy.
> 
> Masonite (or hardboard as it is known generically) may also have 
the same
> issues with outgassing as other woods. Tempered Masonite (the dark 
brown
> stuff) is harder and more dimensionally stable.
> 
> I've heard of folks mounting to aluminum and then to mdf or 
gatorfoam. I
> don't know where they get large prints mounted to aluminum, but 
there is a
> product that is used in the display trade that is fairly thin, 
called
> Dibond. I've been looking for a local source to cold-mount to this
> substrate, but so far no luck. I'm in the Detroit area, so if 
anyone has any
> suggestions?
> 
> Jim
> 
> On 1/2/06 7:18 AM, "DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com"
> <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> > Subject: Re: Mounting?
> > 
> > --- In 
> > DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "scott_now_coming"
> > <scott_now_coming@y...> wrote:
> >> 
> >> Ken,
> >> 
> >> Have you mounted the photo behind glass yet?
> >> 
> >> I'm sure if you place it in a frame with a good stiff backing
> > board, 
> >> the photo will look great.
> >> 
> >> I use that stuff peg-board is made of, only it's smooth and 
doesn't
> >> have the holes. I forget what the "technical" name is, but I 
bought
> >> it at HomeDepot.
> >> 
> >> Scott
> > 
> > 
> > Masonite? If not then it is probably MDF particle board, which 
seems
> > to be more glue than wood chip. My brother uses the mDF to make
> > speaker cabinets because it is dimensionaly stable, extremely 
dense,
> > and extremely stiff. And since it is an engineered product, you 
can
> > get it in really thick sheets like 1.5 inches. It does dull your
> > cutting tools faster than "normal" wood and you really should use 
a
> > good dust mask when cutting it, a real filter would be better.
>

Hi:

3M makes a spray adhesive called Vac-U-Mount". My vacuum press can  
not handle 24 x 36 so I had to use hand roller pressure instead. It  
seems to have worked.

Phil Lindsay
On Jan 1, 2006, at 8:28 PM, Steven Karafyllakis wrote:

> Hi Ken;
>
> I'm not too surprised it doesn't work at that size; that leaves you
> with sending it out to a photolab for either dry-mounting or cold-
> mounting. I would test a smaller finished print in your dry-mount
> press to see how it responds to the heat-if you use a low-temp RC
> tissue it should work. If it doesn't work, look for a place that
> does cold-mounting-there's an adhesive and a vacuum press involved
> (I think-does anyone else have details on this process?)and I have
> no idea what the archival proerties of the adhesive might be.
> Perhaps Greg or Tyler can give us more details on this, along with
> any other methods available?
>
> Steve Karafyllakis
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kenseidman"
> <Seidmank@e...> wrote:
> >
> > I've just mounted my first 24 x 30 inch print onto foamcore using
> the
> > tape hinge method.  Results are not satisfactory for this size and
> > paper (Kodak Pro Glossy paper).  Ripple is evident.  I've got a dry
> > mounting press but it is not large enough for this size print
> (unless
> > I try to dry mount in sections, which seems error prone to me ?).
> >
> > Any suggestions for other mounting methods for such a large print?
> > Thanks,
> > Ken
> >
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven
> > Karafyllakis" <steve@s...> wrote:
> > > ...
> > > One nice thing about inkjet papers, especially the heavywight,
> is
> > > that you don't need to drymount smaller sizes. Some people hinge
> the
> > > window to the backboard, slip the print in and align it then
> either
> > > tape the corners down or use corner mounts.
> > >
> > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "John
> Kantor"
> > > <jkantor@m...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I'd like to offer mounted fine-art images as one of my
> products,
> > > but I
> > > > don't know much about it. What are the preferred methods for
> > > inkjet
> > > > prints?
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other  
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My 24 x 32 inch print is not mounted behind glass. I would actually
need to get a 32 x 40 inch piece of plexiglass  for the matted print
and haven't looked into this option yet.  I suspect it would help some
but not entirely eliminate the ripples (based on previous experience
mounting Ilfochrome/Cibachrome prints behind glass).  In general I
prefer not to put glass or plexi over my prints (I spray them with
PremierArt PrintShield for both increased surface gloss, reduced gloss
differential, and longevity).

I will probably experiment on some smaller prints with my dry mounting
press use the 'sectional approach' next weekend...

I should mention that the ripples do not show up under floodlights
when viewed anywhere within about 60 deg left or right of center...
but at greater angles, or without the flood lights on they show up. 
So, when I approach the print in my living room I am at a large angle
(> 60 deg) and they are quite obvious.

I just found a product listed in the Light Impressions catalog
called Gudy 831 that is an archival pressure sensitive cold mounting
adhesive (http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com, search for 'Gudy',
item 20719, $75 for 33 ft.).  It comes in 24 inch rolls.  Anyone have
any experience with it or similar products that don't require a
special press?

Ken


 
> Have you mounted the photo behind glass yet?
> I'm sure if you place it in a frame with a good stiff backing board,
> the photo will look great.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven
Karafyllakis" <steve@s...> wrote:

>
> Hi Ken;
> 
> I'm not too surprised it doesn't work at that size; that leaves you 
> with sending it out to a photolab for either dry-mounting or cold-
> mounting. I would test a smaller finished print in your dry-mount 
> press to see how it responds to the heat-if you use a low-temp RC 
> tissue it should work. If it doesn't work, look for a place that 
> does cold-mounting-there's an adhesive and a vacuum press involved 
> (I think-does anyone else have details on this process?)and I have 
> no idea what the archival proerties of the adhesive might be. 
> Perhaps Greg or Tyler can give us more details on this, along with 
> any other methods available?
> 
> Steve Karafyllakis
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kenseidman" 
> <Seidmank@e...> wrote:
>> I've just mounted my first 24 x 30 inch print onto foamcore using 
>> the  tape hinge method.  Results are not satisfactory for this >>
>> size and paper (Kodak Pro Glossy paper).  Ripple is evident.  I've
>> got a dry  mounting press but it is not large enough for this size
>> print (unless I try to dry mount in sections, which seems error >>
>> prone to me ?).

Phil,

Thanks for the info.  I notice that 3M makes several Adhesive Sprays
http://www.framingsupplies.com/3M/InformationAdhesiveSprays.htm


Options so far are:
1.  3M Vac-U-Mount (or something similar, e.g. PhotoMount?) w/hand roller
2.  Dry mount print in sections
3.  Gudy 831 Cold-Mounting Adhesive (see my earlier post)
4.  32 x 40 inch plexiglass to perhaps flatten out ripples

Ken




-- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Phil Lindsay
<fotophil@p...> wrote:

>
> Hi:
> 
> 3M makes a spray adhesive called Vac-U-Mount". My vacuum press can  
> not handle 24 x 36 so I had to use hand roller pressure instead. It  
> seems to have worked.
> 
> Phil Lindsay
> On Jan 1, 2006, at 8:28 PM, Steven Karafyllakis wrote:
 
>  --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kenseidman"
>  <Seidmank@e...> wrote:
>  I've just mounted my first 24 x 30 inch print onto foamcore using
>  the
>  tape hinge method.  Results are not satisfactory for this size and
>  paper (Kodak Pro Glossy paper).  Ripple is evident.  I've got a dry
>  mounting press but it is not large enough for this size print
>  (unless
>  I try to dry mount in sections, which seems error prone to me ?).
> 
>  Any suggestions for other mounting methods for such a large print?
>  Thanks,
>  Ken

Look at this - near the end of the page Stephen Livick describes an
interesting product called Lascaux acrylic adhesive 360 HV. 
 
http://www.livick.com/method/inkjet/pg1.htm
 
I have not used it myself...

MVH

FinnK




-----------------------
Finn Krogvig



-----Opprinnelig melding-----
Fra: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] På vegne av
kenseidman
Sendt: 3. januar 2006 00:02
Til: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Emne: [Digital BW] Re: Mounting?


Phil,

Thanks for the info.  I notice that 3M makes several Adhesive Sprays
http://www.framingsupplies.com/3M/InformationAdhesiveSprays.htm


Options so far are:
1.  3M Vac-U-Mount (or something similar, e.g. PhotoMount?) w/hand
roller
2.  Dry mount print in sections
3.  Gudy 831 Cold-Mounting Adhesive (see my earlier post)
4.  32 x 40 inch plexiglass to perhaps flatten out ripples

Ken




-- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Phil Lindsay
<fotophil@p...> wrote:
>
> Hi:
> 
> 3M makes a spray adhesive called Vac-U-Mount". My vacuum press can  
> not handle 24 x 36 so I had to use hand roller pressure instead. It  
> seems to have worked.
> 
> Phil Lindsay
> On Jan 1, 2006, at 8:28 PM, Steven Karafyllakis wrote:

>  --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kenseidman"
>  <Seidmank@e...> wrote:
>  I've just mounted my first 24 x 30 inch print onto foamcore using
>  the
>  tape hinge method.  Results are not satisfactory for this size and
>  paper (Kodak Pro Glossy paper).  Ripple is evident.  I've got a dry
>  mounting press but it is not large enough for this size print
>  (unless
>  I try to dry mount in sections, which seems error prone to me ?).
> 
>  Any suggestions for other mounting methods for such a large print?
>  Thanks,
>  Ken






Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources
as they are often being updated.

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If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
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Please follow these basic guidelines:
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Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the
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