>In retrospect, I would've preferred it! Especially since I'm out of power
>connections (as well as rack spaces).
Hey everybody!
Why don't you send Paul an extra $40 and get a spare set of rack rails? Then
you can rear mount your power supply and have spaces on the back of your
synth rack. Rear mounted supply give your system a more tightly packed with
features type of look. You can use the extra spaces to mount blank panels
with MIDI jacks from Kenton (for us who only want 1/4" to show on the from),
making a "power from one cabinet to the next panel", or for patching some
hard wired cv's from one cabinet to the next? Ignore this if it doesn't
apply to your cabinet I guess.
I am all for the 12 unit blanks (future use) and I am also against the MOTM
logo all big on the blanks. Maybe as an option, but not a replacement. Just
my opinion.
On the joystick level, I am looking for the best way to drop the +15/-15v
volts from the 900 PSU to +10/-10v or +5/-5v for joystick use. Which voltage
do you guys recommend? I am thinking 10v due to my use of attenuators to
limit the voltage range per axis. I know I can do it with diodes, but I want
the absolute cleanest method for DIY. Any help would be appreciated.
My design is an X/Y joystick with CV inputs. Thanks to JWBarlow for the
schematics in the mail! I plan to build this one in a Frack-Rak panel
because I have 2 empty frac-racks in my old cabinet that are somehow not
filling up the way they used to?
Strange phenomena in the studio. MOTMMOTMMOTMMOTMMOTMMOTM like a buddhist
monks chant in the back of my head...in the car, at work, at the bank! how
big will it get and how can I get the money soon? Can anyone relate
Thomas White
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