RE flat rails over wood:
I would be perfectly willing to drill a small hole in the wood behind each
tapped hole to allow for longer module screws. There's no reason to try to
limit the screw length to be flush with the front of the wood surface.
Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@... > -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Schreiber [mailto:synth1@...]
> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 9:38 AM
> To: motm@onelist.com
> Subject: [motm] Flat rails Part #2
>
>
> From: "Paul Schreiber" <synth1@...>
>
> I ∗might∗ be able to use 10ga steel flat stock. It is 0.134 thck (nom).
> Allowing for slop,
> if the panels are 0.125 and the screw is 0.250, that means 9 mils until it
> hits wood!
>
> But, I ∗think∗ (and will need to verify) that standard '1/4 " screws' are
> really like 0.219 long
> from the end to the bottom of the head. Also, I need to get the minimum
> thickness of the rail stock.
>
> I really don't want to use 3/16" screws a la Moog: too much weight! The
> screws would only be about
> 0.055 into the support bracket.
>
> The current 11ga rail is about 0.113 nominal thick, and the screws go all
> the way through it.
>
> Or, as a (shudder) cheapo alternative, use flar bar alum stock
> that is 3/16"
> (0.187) and use 1/4" screws.
> The issue there is the silver alum "peeking through", and the fact that
> tapped alum holes are only good
> for about 10 insertions and then you get stripping. Or with
> Hendry one good
> twist with 800ft-lbs.
>
> I may just quote 9ga and 10ga. 9ga rails would weight a ton! Beat polar
> bears to death with them! And forget
> "use a hacksaw to trim" HA!!
>
> Once decided, I could have these made up in about 3 weeks.
>
> Paul S.
> the King of Over-Engineering
>
>
>
>
>
>
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