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Subject: Cabinet Rails.

From: "Mark T" <mmt@...>
Date: 2000-02-01

>In fact (Mark T., help me out!) a planer with a 10 degree offset could be
>used to angle the ∗inside∗ surfaces of the top and bottom wood pieces
>so that a 90 degree bracket 'tilts' perfectly!

You could indeed plane off the inside top to accomodate the required tilt angle, but I would prefer adding wood to the structure rather than taking it away. Although I don't see whay a metal shop would have a problem in bending the required angle for the rail.

It seem that most list members are looking to emulate the "Moog" type cabinet design and slope, which was also my original intent. I've since thought about other designs.

My suggestion for the rack rails would be to use wood, and as Larry mentioned , the brass threaded inserts. When you are constructing the cabinet and cutting the face angle of the top lid, your saw angle would already be set up, so you'd just have to rip a piece of wood to the appropriate length, about 1 1/2" wide and 1/2" tall ( this should easily clear the top edge of the MOTM PC bracket.) Another option would be to route a 1 1/2" channel along the inside of the top lid to a depth of 1/4" and cut your wood rails to 3/4" tall. You would then be able to "set " the wood rail into the cabinet top for an even more secure mounting method.
Somewhat overkill though.

_ Larry - do you have a source for these inserts that would fit to the MOTM threads? I haven't seen them locally or in the proper size in any of my catalogs. There are several types - press in, and thread in.

A question that I have for Paul and others, is would a rack rail made from wood cause any ground, etc..problems because the modules do not share a common conductive mounting point? I seem to recall an issue several years ago with some effects & amps in a rack where I worked even though the equipment was grounded.

Mark T