OK then, why not side mount everything, and then secure it to the top and
bottom afterwards. How? Simple, make a frame out of the rails across the top
and bottom AND with a pair of flat steel bars which connect to the left and
right sides (by way of some flange kind of thingies that I'll let Paul work
out). These side mounting pieces would only need to have side mounting screw
holes on the sides, and those small flanges on the top and bottom at the
exact height dimensions of MOTM. This would provide a stable frame with
precise MOTM dimensions which could then be inserted in the (yet to be built
or designed) cabinet.
I see the "advantages" of mounting directly to wood, but it seems very
un-MOTM to me.
JB
In a message dated 1/31/2000 7:48:02 PM,
synth1@... writes:
>While I've got my mechanical hat on......
>There is one major "worry" about fixing the rails to the ∗top∗
>and ∗bottom∗ surfaces.
>Tolerances of cutting the wood!
>See, in the current 19" scheme, the 2 "prongs" at the end of the MOTM-19As
>are wider than 'normal'. This allows each rail to "wiggle" in a vertical
>slop of
>about 0.075".
>This allows for panel accumulated tolerances (ie Joe Pavone's rack-o-MOTM)
>to
>be accounted for.
>What has me worried is that wood is not "precision machined" to 0.002 inches
>like
>the panels and rails are! So, I can see mucho problems with a ∗fixed∗
>top/bottom
>rail (never mind Hendry's scheme of bolting 12 things in the middle). I
>can
>see the
>bottom set of panel holes, in the bottom rail being off with respect to
>the
>screwed-in
>bottom rail.
>The beauty of Moog's wood rails is "who cares?" As long as you allow slop
>in
>the ∗overall∗
>inside "lip-to-lip" dimension, you are home free (remember, he used black
>∗wood screws∗
>to hold the modules into the ∗wood∗ rail). You start at the bottom, screw
>those in flush to
>the bottom board, and the top edge of the top-row panels fall "where-ever"
>(as long as they don't
>overlap the top edge!) Who cares if there is a 0.040 gap? You'll never
>see
>it!
>You ∗will care a great deal∗ if there is a 0.040" mis-match in the mounting
>holes and the tapped holes
>in the rails!
>I am beginning to see that having 2 strong (oak, kiln-dried pine) wood
>rails
>is looking good.
>Now, you ∗still∗ need the center bar to joing the rows to each other.
>BUT...that can be side
>mounted.....