As much as I rather like LEDs, I'll have to poo-poo this idea too. Sorry!
My concerns are...
1) Keeping straight whether a lit-up LED meant normallized or not would
leave me scratching me poor head. OTOH, I would likely remember it well
enough before long.
2) I don't quite understand the reason for it if you can tell whether a 4x4
is normallized by lack of jack in the upper-left.
Perhaps you can explain further and I'll see the LED, er, light! :)
In the meanwhile, I would have to say that either 3 or 4 multiples with a
switch between seems like the best idea to me. The number of multiples
would depend on having enough space to easily flip the switch.
--PBr
> -----Original Message-----
> From:J. Larry Hendry [SMTP:jlarryh@...]
> Sent:Thursday, January 27, 2000 3:46 PM
> To:motm@onelist.com
> Subject:Re: [motm] Multiple Personalities
>
> I can see that BUT, you would need to use the stereo 1/4 switchcraft jack
> to do it right. Ken made a good point about squeezing ones fingers
> in-between 1/4 plugs to get the switch. OTOH, I might suggest that the
> switch could be placed where you want it before inserting jacks.
>
> BTW, this has been a VERY interesting thread and I am glad to see so MANY
> people participating. No one person can think of such a variety of ideas
> as we all get stuck inside our own thinking boxes. This is GREAT. I am
> enjoying it. Now, I am going to run ONE more silly idea at you guys who
> would like some visual evidence concerning "normal" connections of one
> multiple to another. What if you used the original idea of 4 X 4. Remove
> the 3 switches, and insert 3 LEDs. A line could be drawn directly up and
> down through the LED connecting the BOX above and below. With no jacks
> inserted, all LEDs would be lit. When you hit the magic circuit breaking
> jack, out goes the LED. Seems easy to do if the magic jack is stereo, and
> the switching on the ring position is grounded on one side and used to
> provide the ground connection to the LED.
>