I'm with Dave on this. The solder-less approach, while "correct", is
better suited to a mass production assembly line that warrants purchase
of the expensive tools and exactly correct wire (see Paul Schreiber's
post on this). Making these by assembly line will go much faster this
way. But for DIY the connections are easily soldered, being careful not
to melt the plastic connector too much. It takes a little skill, but
heck, this is DIY. Soldering works for any size of wire, although
choice of a gauge (#18 or #20) that fits the pin is best. #18 wire is
overkill unless you're making a long cable. Use stranded wire for
flexibility.
My technique is to hold the header in a tiny vise, tin the wire, and
push it carefully into the pin with a small screwdriver. Then make a
good solder joint that properly heats both the wire and the pin with the
solder applied to the work (not just to the soldering iron). I've never
had any problems.
Richard Brewster
http://www.pugix.comdjbrow54 wrote:
> I ground a screwdriver so I can press them in. I don't trust them,
> so I put the connector sideways (to avoid gravity) in a vice and
> solder the wires. You need to solder quickly. I usually tin the
> wires first. Works great.
>
> Dave
>
> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Laity <synthetic@...> wrote:
>
>> What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156
>> connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get
>>
> them
>
>> in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my
>> cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close
>>
> it
>
>> up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire
>> first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.
>>
>> Thanks, -jl
>>
>>