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Hi all,
I'm building a 24U wide, two row cabinet, and I need flat rails tomount the
modules. After all the drama, I assume it is no longer for saleanywhere?
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Another thing that you can do in a pinchis use normal rack rails. What I mean by that is the kind of rails that youwould buy if you were constructing your own 19” rack enclosure. I onlylooked at these quickly, but something like this:
http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-RAX-RKRL6--m-11_65_271.html
I used such a setup for a while beforediving into the woodworking. In fact, this might be the same exact brand that Iused. I had three pairs of these rails about 12u “high” each.Turned horizontally, I bolted two of the pair together back-to-back (they areL-shaped in cross-section), with the third pair split as the “top”and “bottom” rails. After bolting a bunch of MOTM modules to these,the whole thing holds itself together with no other back or sides (naturally,for your safety and the safety of your modules, you wouldn’t want toleave it like this, but as an interim measure, this worked for me).
All I’m saying is that if the Stoogeflat rails are ever really gone for good, maybe turning to something like theserails and building a cabinet around them would be the way to go.
One thing to be aware of – the tappedholes in a 19” rack are a size larger than those in the Stooge flatrails. I don’t remember the exact sizes off-hand, but if Paul is shipping#8x32 machine screws with the modules, then you need #10x32 I think for therack (whatever standard rack-mount screws are). The holes in the corners ofMOTM modules “just about exactly” pass a #10, so you may end upnicking the paint a little bit (inside, in the mounting holes normally coveredby the screws). Just mentioning this because it’s not and perfect fit andif you’re sloppy the screws may dig into the sides of the mounting holesa tad.
But it does work. And they’rerelatively cheap. There are other lengths available – see the sidebar atright.
Hope this helps.
Ken T.