Cutting acrylic is best done with a carbide tipped blade on a circular
saw, when working with large sheets. A ten inch blade with 80 teeth is
about right. There are special designs for this (beveling and
clearance), so checking with a plastics supplier could help get you
pointed in the right direction. Smaller pieces may be cut quite well
with a band saw. Again, use fine teeth 14+ per inch. The key to acrylic
success with this tool is to feed slooooowly. Warning, table saws and
band saws are not for the careless!
I do not think a jigsaw/skill saw would be a good choice. Too much
chatter. Any small "catch" in the cut can cause a starting place for a
future crack. Perhaps not so bad for a synth, but brutal for a fish tank.
Scott
---------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Brewster wrote:
> That's a great idea to use plexiglass. I have not worked with it. What
> kinds of saw work well on plexiglass? I don't have a table saw. Would
> a Dremel tool work?
>
> -Richard Brewster
>
> Scott Juskiw wrote:
>
>
>>I bought a sheet of plexiglass at a hardware store (or was it a
>>plastics store?) and cut it up into 1U, 2U, and 3U panels. I use
>>these as temporary panels while I wait for official Stooge panels,
>>works great. I print out little labels on a sheet of paper and tape
>>them on for marking the jacks and pots.
>>
>>
>>
>>>Question... has anyone used anything as a temporary panel for
>>>modules till they get their stooge panels? I'm building the Oakley
>>>SVF module and I don't want to wait to use it. I was thinking about
>>>using heavy cardboard or wood and gluing a printout of the
>>>frontpanel design onto the front, just as an ugly solution so the
>>>module is usable till I get a stooge panel. Any other ideas for a
>>>temp solution?
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
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