Thanks for the advice, I added a small section at the top of my
auctions with the information you suggested. Sorry if I sounded
misleading, I had used the assembled prices since I do feel my time
in assembly and testing is worth just as much as Paul's. The
comparison was to show you can buy one assembled from the website
for X.XX or one assembled from me for Y.YY, if I were selling
unassembled kits I would've used the kit prices.
I used eBay to take advantage of the free listing day and I feel
that the positive feedback I've earned over the past few years says
more about my business ethics than can be said through the list.
I also have a PayPal business account and welcome people to use that
due to the safety and insurance they offer.
I felt my pictures were ample to show the wiring and condition of
the PCBs, if anyone needs more details, I'd be happy to take more
detailed photos and send them out via email.
I also list exactly what the website says to avoid being misleading.
I'd love to give my views on how great I think MOTM is, but someone
might not agree, (probably why paia is still in business) I try to
stick to the facts and leave my opinions for personal emails. When
it comes to eBay disputes, it's easier to prove what a manufaturer
states that what I personally thought.
If anyone has any questinos I personally invite them to ask me and
i'll be more than happy to answer.
-Nate
--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, Mike Estee <mikest@a...> wrote:
> > All the auctions are for built kits, they're all for 7 days, the
> > reserve prices are set at 66% of the assembled price with a buy
it now
> > option of the assembled price minus 20 dollars.
>
> As someone who buys a fair amount of kit on ebay, I feel compelled
to
> offer a few pointers about what (personally) makes me comfortable
about
> buying. Maybe others on the list will find this interesting.
>
> First off, if you must sell a MOTM system (lost your job, back to
> school, and medical expenses, are the only legitimate excuses!)
Try
> selling it here before you put it up on ebay. Identity
verification is
> a bit of a throny issue, so having a paypal account is a good
idea. I
> would never send cash or a check to just any Joe Modular.
>
> As a general rule it's a good idea to mention that the kits where
built
> by you, and to place a picture of your solder work up when running
an
> auction on ebay, or a description of your soldering skills
> (professional, nonprofessional, be prepared to back your self up
here.)
> From your text it would be easy for me to assume that these where
> originally bought assembled as you quote the original assembled
price
> in your auction copy, when in fact you state that this is not true.
>
> I have to say I'm also not a big fan of reading website literature
in
> auctions. It's much more reassuring to hear about the history of
the
> piece in question than to read the specs. (Smoke free studio,
etc.) For
> me, it's also an indicator of how serious an individual is about
> selling. A proper history and description of working/visual
condition
> denotes an air of professionalism, and i'd rather read specs at
the
> original website. Leave a llink.
>
> As a seller, I've found that BuyItNow works wonders for moving
> equipment quickly. I usually try and gauge what the median price
is and
> set the buy it now at the median, and the auction start a
percentage
> below that. Don't bother with reserves. People tend to purchase
> impulsively (for most things it turns out...), BuyItNow panders to
that
> tendency. MOTM modules seem to retain there value pretty well,
even
> customer assembled ones, though those are more variable. I would
say a
> Paul built MOTM module is probably worth more than the original
kit
> price.
>
> Good luck, and hope to see you back after college!
>
> --mikes