> From: JWBarlow@...
> Yes, these sound almost exactly like what I'm thinking of except for my
> sloped cabinet I'm thinking of two of your magic bus strips (one for each
> of MOTM).
Well, I certainly thought that direction too. However, I have wondered
recently if it was not excessive. However, maybe "excessive" describes
modular in general. HAHA (flame suit on).
> And I'm thinking of a second single row MOTM cabinet as well.
Aren't we all ??
> In a message dated 10/25/99 5:42:13 AM, Ken.Tkacs@... writes:
> >I would think it would be easier (cheaper) to simply connect the two
> >to a wedge, no? The rails I bought have mounting flanges that go back
> >2", which is pretty deep. Even a few wooden wedges spaced along the
> >should do it.
> (back to JB)
> Interesting idea! Wedges might not be as sturdy as I'd like -- another
> is to bend some small corner braces (the 3/4" to 1" ones) which seem to
> retain their strength even after being bent. I liked Larry's routing
> too, though I think you'd notice the top edge being thinner than the
> the cabinet.
OK JB, since I know you are a stooge, I will draw you a picture.
Otherwise, it would be two fingers inserted directly to the eye sockets.
My routing idea was directed at the bottom rail (I should have said so).
One of the problems with having different bend angles is that each sloped
cabinet would require one less than 90 and one more than 90. The routing
idea is for the back part of the lower rail. So, the routing is completely
inside the cabinet and does not reduce the visible edge of the wood. There
is no routing right under the rail edge where the modules bolt. The router
cut is at 90 degrees to the front slope so that the back of the rail edge
is cut into the wood slightly. The front edge is normal and the routing is
invisible from the front.
I had not given the top too much thought. However the router idea does not
work well on the top. You would have to cut for the front of the rail
(which even a stooge could see, as you pointed out, would cause the front
edge to be reduced). I think as Ken pointed out you would have to wedge up
the back. What is used to do so would depend a lot on how deep the rail
is. You could run something the length of the rail or spaced under the
attachment screws (like Ken suggested).
> No thoughts on attaching rails to the sides of the cabinet I guess.
Actually, there are several well documented plans on how to do this on the
MOTM site. And, there have been many threads written on the subject on
this mail list. However, there is a conspiracy against stooges without
hair to restrict their access to all the good information.
Larry (even he had hair on the sides) stooge Hendry