> ----- Original Message -----
> From: paulhaneberg <phaneber@...>
> I do have a drill press. I use several different bit sizes, starting out
small and working my way up. The biggest problem I
have is twisted bits of scrap staying on the bit and scratching the paint a
little around the hole as the bit rotates.
This is exactly how I drill panels. To avoid the scraps from scratching the
fron, I cover the front with a painters masking tape before I drill. Of
course, you have to center punch them first so you can find the hole
locations throught the tape.
> I remove these by just touching the panel backside with an oversize bit at
a slow speed.
I do that same thing. I hit the front slightly too. They do make a drill
press special tool for that task. However, when assembly line drilling
panels, I find the larger bit is the best. Since I am making usually 4 size
holes (1/8", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8", I drill all holes with the smaller bits.
Then, I use the next size up to clean the smaller holes right as I drill
that next size. It saves me a lot of bit swapping. And, after a hole
reaches its ultimate size, I ALWAYS cover that hole with masking tape to
avoid hitting it with the next larger bit by accident.
> I'm curious as to whether the holes on official MOTM panels are actually
drilled or if they are punched out.
On the Stooge panels, the 4 corner holes are laser cut. All of my aluminum
is laser cut. However, I have seen evidence on some of Paul's MOTM panels
at the edge that they are sheared instead. Therefore, the could be punched.
I can pretty much you assure you they are not drilled.
Stooge brackets are CNC stamped (except I did get some that were laser cut
one time).
Stooge flat rail holes are ALL drilled (and then some holes tapped) . That
is one of the reasons they are so expensive. The metal shops are usually
going to avoid drilling as much as possible.
Larry (stooge metal guy)