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Subject: Re: desoldering stuff [was 490 resonance]

From: "strohs56k" <strohs@...>
Date: 2003-04-29

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, media.nai wrote:
>
> While I'm on the subject of swapping resistors. Does anyone know a
> good way to unsolder MOTM PCB's?? They seem to delaminate very
> easily. Just removing R39 removed the foil around both pads. You
> don't even want to know about the 700...

In my experience, the desoldering technique Moe suggests usually works
best - sacrifice the component, not the PCB. (In other words, first
remove the component by clipping the leads on the component side as
close to the the body of the component as you can get. After the
component is gone use any number of desoldering techniques to remove
what remains of the leads from the PCB.) This is especially true with
ICs - the more leads on a part, the less likely it is you will get all
of the solder out to free the part and this is where you start to have
"accidents" ;) So better to cut the part out and remove the remaining
leads one at a time.

For desoldering, solder suckers and solder wick both work fine if
used correctly. With the solder sucker you should be able to suck the
solder and the remains of the lead out all in one operation. With
solder wick, you might need to grab what remains of the component lead
with some hemostats, heat up the pad, and pull the lead out - then use
the solder wick to clean the remaining solder out of the pad. (With
solder wick, it sometimes helps to add a little bit of solder to the
pad before desoldering. Most solder wick has flux so be sure and get
the no clean type if you use it.)


As far as tools, the Edsyn Soldapullt is a pretty good solder sucker.
(I'm pretty sure Paul recommends these!) I have tried some others
(including the blue aluminum one that Radio Shack sells) that didnt
work as well...


Seth