Sounds like the one I use. Yellow handles. I have it permanently set for
about #26 wire and I'm just careful not to nick. I strip all gauges and
insulations with the same setting. Coax, PVC, Teflon. I've used it on so
many thousands of wires that maybe it's too dull now to nick the wire. In
any case I like the small size of the tool. I have used the large strippers
that grip the wire. They are good for assembly line work when all you're
doing for a few hours is stripping and tinning. But try picking up that big
tool and putting it down a few hundred times. For close work, the little
tool shines.
For DIY work I cut long. I solder all the wires into the board first, then
mount the board and wire up to the panel. I don't cut and strip the panel
end of a wire until I'm ready to fasten it. In close quarters the small
stripper is ideal. It just takes a bit of dexterity. Take 'lay' soldering.
It's a technique that requires virtually three hands. But I use it for all
pot wiring, where the pots have PC leads. Tin wire. Tin pot lead. Lay wire
against lead, tin the iron and quickly apply heat. Solder flows. Joint is
good. Don't try this after a strong cup of coffee. I learned most of what
I know by doing factory assembly for avionics computers in the seventies.
-Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Frampton" <noise@...>
To: <motm@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 1:40 PM
Subject: [motm] Re: [Q] Wire Stripping
> Thought I might offer up a possibly less expensive alternative. I use a
> little Greenlee model 1913 tool (although there are identical designs
> from other mfr's as well). You use a setscrew to set the minimum
> diameter, so once set you never have to worry about actually cutting
> the metal. Best of all: $6.20 from ACK Radio, my local electronics
> headshop.
>
> e
>