On the subject:
I spent the time and effort to make my solid wood cabinet out of a
beautifully grained birch wood. Not the cheapest but man oh man was it worth
the time. I bought in in 10" wide pieces and spent about $100 total on the
wood and parts excluding stain. It was cinch to build. Basic top and bottom
with sides sanwiched between all held together with a litlle glue, sawdust
and very handy "L" brackets inside the case. 2 of these brackets on each
corner and my case si super storng. I could put wheels on it and skateboard
down the street! The brackets really sealed the strength issues for me.
The modules are held in to the case on 3 pine runners with brass machine
screw inserts. I can provide a source for these later although now that
Larry Hendry offers the flat rails I would give it a second thought. Very
easy to take modules in and out versus the brass inserts (which are fine
now, but loose in the beginnning till the wood closed in around them) My
case is basically 2 x 10 space SKB cases full of modules in a new wood case
(20u wide and 2 rows tall)
I am planning my second cabinet (tilted front) for under the first. I will
use the same brass inserts to keep things the same as the first cabinet and
BTW I have lots left over HA! The wood I used came in only 10" wide pieces
and I now need a 13-14" piece for the bottom and sides of the new cabinet.
Sadly I will have to look at plywood and edge pieces or use my friends
"Biscuit Joiner" for putting 2x 10" pieces together and sand it all down
quite a bit in the middle of the sides when its finished joining. I will
probably take the plywood route due to current finances. Maybe I can find
some with a simlar grain. If not I might save my money and wait since my
first cabinet came out so nice I want to hold the image with the second.
How many degrees of tilt on the front panels do you all think I should use.
I plan for a 10inch top of cabinet and a 14 inch bottom of cabinet for 2
rows in height of modules. Any thoughts?
Thomas White
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