Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: MOTM

O.k., it's time to admit it. I'm bluffing through this modular-building
thing!

That's right--Every one of my modules has worked perfectly after I've built
it, and that's because I'm extremely careful and don't do anything unless
I'm very sure of what I'm doing.

But here's the problem. I can't seem to figure out my DVM. I've read the
manual, I bought another DVM book at Radio Shack, I've read a couple of
introductory electronics books, but for some reason I can't get my head
around a couple of things.

For example: I was calibrating my MOTM-110 yesterday, and even without my
probes touching anything (quit snickering in the back), I was reading
something like 29 volts. Once I was "hooked in," I put the jumper between
+15 and the jack (you know what I mean?), watched the meter, and turned the
trimpot. Nothing. No change.

I feel like whenever I turn on the voltmeter for anything other than testing
batteries, I'm in for a rollercoaster ride of frustration. I quit using my
B&K, which was supposedly a good instrument, because I thought it must be
broken--I could never get predictable results. Now I have the Radio Shack
DVM that Paul designed, and I'm just confused.

Thanks for the modules, Paul! I had the most amazing groove going yesterday
with the ring mod/vca, sub-octave multiplexer, 420, an EG, an old
Hewlett-Packard function generator, a 606 and a 303 (for the CV out). Wow. I
have never, ever, ever heard a synthesizer do that. My jaw just dragged
around the floor for an hour.

Anyway, if anyone has a pearl of wisdom about DVMs, please drop them my way.
Luckily I don't actually need it as the modules work just fine and I was
able to do the alternate (non-DVM) calibration of the 110.

Take care,

David Bivins
Creative Strategist & Transistor Rhythmer
Brandscape
New York City
212.285.2600.x103