I've gotten into the habit of tying them down first. I insert the core, then
ease the braid in, then hold it flat with a fingertip while pulling the
wire-tie through and cinching it. Since I've done this, I haven't had the
"hot knife (wire) through butter (insulation)" problem again. I think this
is because the wire is stationary when I bring the iron into contact with it
and the pad.
I'm surprised several people have had trouble melting switches. My problem
is always the plastic jack cases and existing coax! Fitting the iron in
there can be tricky when finishing up attaching the jacks to the panel.
Make sure to keep your iron's tip tinned. Perhaps you're not getting enough
surface area heat on there and when you bring it into contact the heat is
uneven--not giving enough where you need it but too much elsewhere. If you
notice gaps in the shininess of your tip, clean it (wipe on damp sponge) and
(if you don't have a spare available) gently sand it with very fine
sandpaper. This will give it a new lease on life. Mind you, this is
something I did on my own (without consultation with Paul S or any other
soldering guru), but it completely revitalized a tip I had; it's been
perfect for over a year since sanding it, so I don't think it's a problem.
I just keep my iron hot and never, ever leave it touching anything for more
than a second. I have the solder ready at the joint, and I don't touch the
iron to the board and component until my hand knows exactly where it's
going. With precision, one shouldn't have to hold it long at all. The only
ones that take a second go-round sometimes are the posts for the MTA
connector, and I think that's only because there's more surface area to deal
with and I'm stingy with the solder (not too much!)
Take care,
David.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mate_stubb@... [mailto:mate_stubb@...]
> Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 10:46 AM
> To: motm@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [motm] Re: coaxion -> switch destruction
>
>
> Interesting how everyone's successful coax install techniques vary.
> My procedure is somewhat different than this. I bend the shield at a
> sharp 90 degree angle to the cable, and also bend the core lead at
> the same 90 degree angle, making sure that the bend takes place right
> AFTER the insulation ends. Now I can place the coax such that both
> wires go in the holes without struggling. Usually, the shield will
> not go quite all the way down flush because there is slightly more
> distance between the wire leads than the holes. I solder the core,
> then take a pair of needlenose pliers and gently pull the shield
> through the hole a little further so that it lays flush, and solder
> the shield. The goal is to make the wire connect as flat as possible
> (but without sideways strain to cause melt-through). That way you can
> cinch the coax down tight with the cable tie. This works great for me.
>
> Moe
>
> --- In motm@y..., "Hugo Haesaert" <hugo.haesaert@s...> wrote:
> > When soldering the coax to the boards, i start with the core . I
> > found that when first soldering the braid, many a time the center
> > conductor is then put under a bending load . When soldering takes
> a
> > tad too long (this can always happen :) ), the hot core wire will
> cut
> > through the poyethylene insulation like a hot knife through
> butter .
> > Hence i start with the core without bending it much at all . Then
> > the braid, not tight at all, so there is some air on the component
> > side . And i do not twist this, close to the core . This again to
> > put no cutting strain on the core . This bit of slack is neatly
> > tucked under when fixing the coax with the tie .
>
>
>
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