Great advice. Thanks so much!
[:D]
--- In
Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "superwolle70" <superwolle70@...>
wrote:
>
> it's almost as simple. If there is still the polycarbonat surface
> underneath the rubber, you can probably leave it and polish the dried
> glue away. This worked fine with some of mine. On some of the Mark II
> pads, the rubber was directly glued onto the plywood. In this case you
> need to cut yourself new surfaces. If you want black ones, take
> transparent 1.5-2mm polycarbonate (known as "Lexan" or "Makrolon") and
> spray them from the bottom with a flexibel paint. To stick it back
> onto the wood, use a thinner free glue or the glue may resolve the
> paint. If you want to make "original" white surfaces, use 1.5-2mm PVC
> foil (which I guess was als used in black for some black faced Mark I
> pad series). The PVC foil is even better to process as you don't need
> to paint it. It's not as mirror finished as polycarbonate, but still
> looks nice and works perfect as well. And you may use thinner
> containing glues.
>
> Concerning the gap: Size it and choose the thickness of the
> polycarbonate/PVC material by the result of the sizing.
> Make sure that once you have removed the rubber that the wood surface
> it not to damaged, otherwise you might get less trigger signals where
> sticks of woodare ripped of. It should be almost plain.
>
> --- In Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "monzarottie" roger.davis@
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Has anyone converted an SDSV mark II pad to a mark I pad? Is it as
> > simple as removing the rubber overlay and replacing the
polycarbonate
> > surface? How have you dealt with the gap between the hard surface
and
> > the aluminum trim once the rubber was removed?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]