it's almost as simple. If there is still the polycarbonat surface
underneath the rubber, you can probably leave it and polish the dried
glue away. This worked fine with some of mine. On some of the Mark II
pads, the rubber was directly glued onto the plywood. In this case you
need to cut yourself new surfaces. If you want black ones, take
transparent 1.5-2mm polycarbonate (known as "Lexan" or "Makrolon") and
spray them from the bottom with a flexibel paint. To stick it back
onto the wood, use a thinner free glue or the glue may resolve the
paint. If you want to make "original" white surfaces, use 1.5-2mm PVC
foil (which I guess was als used in black for some black faced Mark I
pad series). The PVC foil is even better to process as you don't need
to paint it. It's not as mirror finished as polycarbonate, but still
looks nice and works perfect as well. And you may use thinner
containing glues.
Concerning the gap: Size it and choose the thickness of the
polycarbonate/PVC material by the result of the sizing.
Make sure that once you have removed the rubber that the wood surface
it not to damaged, otherwise you might get less trigger signals where
sticks of woodare ripped of. It should be almost plain.
--- In
Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "monzarottie" <roger.davis@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone converted an SDSV mark II pad to a mark I pad? Is it as
> simple as removing the rubber overlay and replacing the polycarbonate
> surface? How have you dealt with the gap between the hard surface and
> the aluminum trim once the rubber was removed?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>