I think the laminators can be converted for thicker boards and slower
speed, but i don't think they do one-pass easily.
Try to get a fuser, IMO it is the most sturdy and easy to convert
solution, and it easily makes one-pass possible.
Using it inside a printer is not useful IMO, it moves too fast for the
thick PCBs. Take the fuser unit out, connect a simple temperature
controller, and a geared motor. Usually the fuser assembly comes out as a
neat unit.
I would not suggest PCB milling. it is slow, dusty, noisy, bad resolution,
expensive.
The silicone is normal high temperature silicone chaulk, around 7 to 10eur
for 300ml (many, many pages...).
Also get a steel squeegee (20cm wide so it covers almost the entire page
width). Then you coat normal copier paper with that.
You can also use inkjet paper and remove the paper by rubbing under water,
after fusing to the PCB, then you needn't coat anything but it is more
work to get the paper off.
ST
On Sun, 29 May 2005 09:41:13 +0200, Robert Hedan
<
robert.hedan@...> wrote:
> Well, I got excellent results printing onto PlayBoy magazines. The lines
> were extremely crisp. The problem occurred during passing through the
> laminator, the toner would barely stick if at all. The silicone papers
> did
> give partial results, but nothing to jump up and down about.
>
> I've tried the $30 el-cheapo WalMart laminator, save your money. It
> doesn't
> even make a dent, doesn't seem hot enough. The GBC 300 gave me some
> results, but showed signs of serious stress. The PCB would stick and
> had to
> be helped along, with groaning and cracking noises; not reassuring.
>
> One tutorial on the group mentionned passing the PCB 8 times through the
> laminator, that's not really acceptable for me. I'd like to do some
> minor
> volume and would like to cut that down. I am wondering if preheating the
> prepped PCBs in the small toaster ovens would shorten the process
> somewhat.
> Anyone try that yet?
>
> I'm seriously considering finding a scrap copier and using the hot drum
> in
> there for laminating. Ideally, a laser printer that I could open and try
> the straight through direct printing would be ideal, but I scavenged my
> LaserJet II a few months ago for the motors. WAAAAAH!!!! I killed the
> roller, and I didn't take notes what went where, and broke some critical
> flex cables by accident. d'uh...
>
> I've read through the files on the group and considering options at this
> point. I'll try printing on the outer side of the silicone paper and see
> what that gives.
>
> Can you tell me more about this high temp silicone you talk about? How
> do
> we use that?
>
> I'm not going to be fabricating PCBs on a large scale, but I do want to
> be
> able to handle something in the order of under 100 sheets of 8 1/2" x 11"
> single-sided. I'm seriously starting to consider investing in a Saber or
> similar machine:
> http://www.online-inc.com/Product%20Pages/Sabre%20CloseUp.htm
>
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
> la part de Stefan Trethan
> Envoyé : mai 29 2005 02:23
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: RE : [Homebrew_PCBs] New paper for TT! Reynolds Parchment
> Paper
>
>
> Robert, you are seeing much the same thing i saw back then when trying
> baking paper.
> The coating is just too slippery to hold the toner. The back allows
> printing because it is not coated.
>
> It seems, baking paper works only with certain printers and or for
> certain
> people.
>
> If i were you, i'd try silicone coating with high-temp silicone. The
> difference is the surface is kind of sticky.
>
>
> ST
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>