Hi Kent,
Don't us homebrewers already have the equivalent of an UV curing ink
with the correct wetting out and resist properties? I'm suggesting
the use of the coating that is applied to sensitize pc boards as the
ink.
Its designed to wet out the copper surface and adhere well. After
printing just "expose" the board and etch.
Seems like it would be worth a try.
Myc
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, rruss45826@a... wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/7/2005 9:26:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lcdpublishing@y... writes:
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> I suspect the ink in your printer is water based ink, that would
not
> flow out as you would hope. I think a solvent based ink would be
> needed for printing on metals and even plastics. If you ever
tried
> to print on transparencies that are not for ink jets, you get the
> same problem.
>
> So I don't think an ordinary ink-jet printer would work, but I
think
> the concept would.
>
>
>
> The only inkjet that would work is an EPSON with the Dye Sub ink
kit added.
> Those inks when heated are water proof!
>
> Ray Russell
> NMRA-40609
> General Contractor
> Norfolk & Western Railroad
> Pocahontas Division
> Circa 1958
> Visit The "NEW" Pocahontas Website at:_ Click here: N & W
Pocahontas
> Division_
(http://members.aol.com/rruss45826/public_html/index.html)
> http://members.aol.com/rruss45826/public_html/index.html
>
> OR_ Click here: Pocahontas Home_
> (http://milliron.home.sprynet.com/Pocahontas/Pocahontas1.htm)
> For the old website!
> http://milliron.home.sprynet.com/Pocahontas/Pocahontas1.htm
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]